Climbing Passport

I. Climbing class — technical 2. Climbing area — Kiçik-Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Legendarnaya Magnitka — 4550 m via the Western ridge spur 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m, length of difficult section — 210 m, average steepness of difficult section — 60° 6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 23, ice — none, bolted — none 7. Number of climbing hours — 10 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — none 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification:

Ascent Passport

1. Gathering Name: Training and climbing gathering of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpinism Federation and Magnitogorsk Alpine Club.
2. Region: 5.1.4. Pamir-Alay, Kyzylkia Ridge, Suychakty Valley.
3. Summit: Legendary Magnitka (4550 m according to classifier), 4632 m according to map and GPS.
4. Ascent Route: via the right counterfort of the Western ridge.
5. Ascent Type: Combined
6. Difficulty Category: First ascent, proposed 4B.
7. Route Characteristics: Height difference — 698 m; Route length — 2932 m; including wall part length — 435 m; length of 4th category sections — 885 m; Average steepness — 15°. Wall part — 73°

Report on the ascent of the Chelyabinsk Region Alpine Club group to the summit of Mazar (3434 m) (traverse along the NW ridge of the NW and Main peaks) Magnitogorsk 2009

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent: rock climbing.
2. Region: 5.1.4. Pamir-Alay, Kichik-Alay range, Kirgiz-ata valley.
3. Peak: Mazar (3434 m)
4. Ascent route: traverse along the NW ridge of the NW and Main peaks
5. Difficulty category: first ascent, proposed 3B
6. Route characteristics: — rock climbing

Ascents to the summit of Pervomayskaya (4064 m). 15. From the south via the Kurgan pass

The summit is located in the Kyzylkiya ridge in the Mazarsay tract approximately 65–70 km from the city of Osh. It is convenient to set up a base camp under the Mazar mountain. The location is suitable for camping, with available firewood and water. The Pervomayskaya summit is located east of the base camp. The summit is composed of loose, heavily weathered rocks. The first ascent to the Pervomayskaya summit was made on April 29, 1959, by a group of climbers from Osh consisting of NAUMENKO I.M. — leader, 1st sports category, BURYAK V.A. — 1st sports category, and holders of the "Alpinist of the USSR" badge: MAMATOV G., MADRAKHIMOV T., YUDINA V., SOKOLOVA S., YAROSHENKO V. The movement goes in the direction of the Kok-Bel pass. We crossed a number of spurs covered with deep snow and gullies. The slope gradually becomes steeper and avalanche-prone. We move up with variable insurance via ice axes to the pass. Here we build a cairn. Further, we head west, traversing the slope of the Pervomayskaya summit. We reach a steep, wide snow couloir with rocky outcrops. Here we insure via ledges and ice axes. Before the summit:

• we reach rocks of moderate difficulty, which we traverse to the right with a gradual gain in height;

Fig. 11. Pervomayskaya from the south-west

4. Pervomayskaya via the southern slope

The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 10, 11). Length — 1500 m, height difference — 450 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (a group of 2–10 people) cross the Kurgan River by bridge and ascend along the road on the left side of the Kurgan valley. After going around a green hill with juniper forest, ford the stream that flows from the left into the Kurgan River, and ascend along the road on the left side of the Kurgan upper valley. Then, cross the stream from the Kurgan Pass and ascend along the trail in the direction of the left side of the Kumbel Pass. From the alpine camp — 3–3.5 hours. Without approaching the slopes of the pass, turn left and ascend along a wide scree ridge on

Studencheskaya

Sudencheskaya (4152 m) is a solitary, inconspicuous peak located in a short southern spur of the Northern Kichik-Llaysky ridge behind the Tookomo scree pass. The ridges of the peak descend to the west and east parallel to the Northern ridge, forming rising cirques beneath it. Only pioneers have reached the summit: M. Toktobaev, R. Agileva, V. Klishevich, A. Kursky, E. Penkova, E. Pervasheva, who ascended the peak on May 1, 1962, from the Tookomo pass. 39. Studencheskaya from the north via the Western ridge couloir The route is combined, category 2A (fig. 5, 8, 46, 4Ya). Length — 400 m, time — 6–7 hours. From the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (group of 2-4 people):

• Cross the bridge over the Kurgan river and ascend along the road on the left slope of the Kurgan gorge.
• Having passed the juniper forest, approach the green cape — a hill in the center of the gorge.

Group Equipment

I. Main rope 40 m - 3 pcs. 2. Rock pitons - 10 pcs. 3. Carabiners - 10 pcs. 4. Hammers - 2 pcs. 5. Ladders - 4 pcs.

III. Peak Sur-ToO

Ascent via the south-eastern ridge, route 1A cat. difficulty (see diagram in Fig. 2). The route was traversed on October 31, 1972 by a group consisting of Inozemtsev Yu.P. (leader), Telbuh P.A., Nehaenko A.A.

Location of the summit and ascent routes

6. Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours. From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit):

• Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge.
• Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River.
• Go around a green hill with an arch forest. In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours. Ascent:
• From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine.
• On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area, Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge
3. Peak Tavriya, height 4605 m, ascent route via the western ridge
4. Proposed category difficulty 2B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, section length 5–6 km, average slope 40°
6. Pitons hammered: For belay: