Khokh Range

Ascent of Lhotse by a Japanese team via the South Ridge in 1981, description of the route and key events of the expedition.

1981

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Shauhoh via the 10th buttress in the ridge, Caucasus, 4th category of difficulty, combined route.

86 Shaukhokh via the 10th spur to the ridge Anoshin G.G. Caucasus 2.8 PASSPORT Technical category Caucasus, Genaldon gorge, Kolka glacier Shaukhokh via the 10th spur to the ridge Proposed category 4B, combined, first ascent Elevation gain — 1400 m. Height of rock sections: category 2 — 100 m, category 3 — 590 m, category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 130 m. Height of snow-ice ridge: category 2 — 180 m, category 3 — 120 m. Average slope: rock part of the route — 45°, ice ridge — 30–35° No pitons were left on the route previously

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Pau-khokh (4646 m) via the north edge, one of the most challenging routes in the mountains of North Ossetia, with a detailed description of the path and necessary equipment.

General Description of the Peak and its Location The Midagrabin Plateau area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude region, located to the west in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus and is entirely within the North Ossetian ASSR. The most significant peaks in the area are giants such as: Jimarai-khokh Shau-khokh Suatisi-khokh Zeigalan-khokh Tsiti-khokh Khirkhaten

Description of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) along the eastern ridge, complexity category 2B, route condition as of September 2015: snow-ice, without technically difficult rock sections.

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015: snow-ice rock sections do not present technical difficulties. Approaches Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post: A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located There are places for tents and water

Description of a Category 2 difficulty route to the summit of Chach-Khokh (4207 m) via the eastern ridge from Chach valley with a detailed analysis of the route and necessary equipment.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Chach-khokh, category 2B complexity (height 4107 m) via the eastern ridge, approved on 17/2-67. The summit is located in the watershed ridge (between the basins of the Genal-don and Chach-khi rivers), connecting the Kazbek plateau to the south with the peak Iriston and further to the north with S. and Y. Kaidzhany. The summit has been visited repeatedly by mountaineering groups. All ascents were made from the Chach valley. The route is classified. Day 1 The group travels by car along the VGD to the village of Gvileti, from where it is no more than 1 hour's walk along a dirt road to the confluence of the Kebati and Chach-khi rivers. After crossing the Kebati River and then the Chach-khi River at their confluence, the group heads along a trail to the right (Chach) valley. The trail winds up the slope and leads to the first "gates" of the Chach valley (a height difference of about 300-400 m). Next, it is necessary to go up to the right. Overcoming the "ram's foreheads of the gates" along one of the shelves that divides them, you should climb up the grassy slope to a group of trees, from which a well-trodden trail begins again. Follow the trail into a wide couloir, cross a stream, after which the trail turns sharply to the right under the rocks. Following along them, it will lead to a shoulder forming the first "gates" of the valley. It takes about 1.5 hours to walk from the confluence of the rivers to the pass point of the first "gates". The "ram's foreheads" must be passed with caution and gymnastic belay.

First ascent of Tsa peak (3664 m) via the South ridge, Caucasus, Bokoĭ Range, cat. 1B難度

Ascent Passport Rock class. Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsatadon River gorge. Peak 3664 m (Tsat); from Southeast via South Ridge. Proposed — Category 1B difficulty, first ascent. Elevation gain: 400 m, approximately 2 km long. Average slope along the route is about 30°. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice screws | bolted pitons | | :--- | :---- | :--------- | :------------ | | 2 | 4 | 0 | 0 |

*Suatisi Traverse — Geologov Peak — Jimarai — Shau-khokh — Druzhba Peak — Zaigelan, Midograbin Glacier, 1965, Climbing Report*

Report on the Traverse of Peaks: Suatissi — p. Geologov — Jimaray — Shau-khok — Druzhba — Zaygelan Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya" Coach NARKEVICH F.V. Captain PRAZDNIKOV V.A. Minsk 1965 Scheme of the traverse of peaks "Suatissi — peak 4392 — Jimaray — Shau-khok — peak Druzhba — Zaygelan". Team of the Central Council of the DSO "Krasnoye Znamya", Minsk. Legend: visible path, invisible path, bivouac locations, route sections. "It's better to quarrel with Kazbek than to drink tea with Jimaray" Ossetian proverb

Ascent to Peak 25-letiya SKGMI (3840 m) from the east, category of difficulty II-B + III-A, from the valley of Belaya River via the eastern spur.

Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m) from the east 2B + 3A cat. diff. The peak is located at the extreme eastern end of the Central Caucasus, in the Kazbek group of peaks of the Lateral Ridge. The peak is the easternmost summit in the Northeast spur from the Kazbek Firn Plateau, consisting consecutively of the peaks: Peak "4005 m", Iriston Peak (3969 m), Chach-khokh (4098 m), Peak "3850 m", South Kaijany (3916 m), North Kaijany (3969 m), Peak 25th Anniversary of SKGMI (~3840 m). The massif of the peak and its eastern spurs separate the river basins - tributaries of the Terek: to the south - Koba-khi and upstream of its tributary - Chach-khi, to the north - the Belaya River. On the western and eastern slopes of the peak, one small dying cirque glacier has survived. The massif is composed mainly of clay shales, with separate outcrops of intrusive rocks. The slopes are significantly covered with talus. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the North Caucasus Institute of Mining and Metallurgy led by I. Suzhaev in 1956 via the simplest route from the Chach valley (2A cat. diff.). In subsequent years, ascents from the Chach valley were made repeatedly. In July 1971, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze (SO ASSR) led by R.P. Proskuryakov made the first ascent to the peak from the east, from the Belaya River valley. A description of the route is given below.

### Description of the First Ascent of Peak 4312 in the Caucasus via the North Spur, Category 3B Completed in 1994 by a team led by Andrey Gorbunov.

Climbing Passport Climbing category: technical Climbing area: Caucasus: 2,86 Genaldon river gorge Peak, route: p. 4312: via N. ridge from the Maili glacier (named after Tsarakhov T.) Estimated category of difficulty: 3B — first ascent Route characteristics: height difference — 1800 m, route length — 2400 m, length of sections — 4th category of difficulty — 40 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 600 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° Pitons used: rock — none ice screws — 16 Number of climbing hours (days) — 30 (3)

Ascent of Peak "3850" (North Ossetia) via the northern ice-rocky edge, category of complexity 2B.

Ascents to Peak "3850" 3B cat. (in North Ossetia it is called Peak "3944"). The summit is located in the northern spur of the Lateral Ridge of the Caucasus. The spur branches off from Peak Spartak (4677 m) on the Kazbek firn plateau and includes the following peaks from south to north: Unnamed (Peak Ordzhonikidzevskaya Railway — 4007 m) Peak Iriston (4000 m) Chach-khokh (4100 m) Peak "3850" South Kaidzhani (3916 m) North Kaidzhani (3969 m) Climbers ascending the Kaidzhan–Chach-khokh traverse have twice reached the summit. In January 1959, D. Shevchuk's group ascended Peak "3850" as an independent ascent object from the east; however, the route from the east remained unclassified (approximately 1B cat.). The first ascent of the northern ice-rock rib of Peak "3850" was made by a group of climbers from the North Ossetian Sports Society "Spartak" under the leadership of T. Khakurinov on October 3, 1965. Following the pioneers, a group from the SO Council "Spartak" under the leadership of G. Eputaev ascended the route.