Northeastern Altai

Mountain range42,817.97 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of a new Category IIIB climbing route to the Vostochnaia (Eastern) summit of Radistov (3750 m) in the Severo-Chuysky Range on Altai, with a detailed description of traversing the gully and the western ridge.

Passport

  1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
  2. p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
  3. Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
  4. Hooks left — 0 pcs.
  5. Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
  6. Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).
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Description of the route to Peak Radiostov via the northern ridge from the Bolshoy Akturu glacier, complexity category 2B, time 5-6 hours.

V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III

From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

  • go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
  • the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
  • there is a hut on the moraine.
  • from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking. From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir,
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Description of the route on the northern slope of Radistov peak in Altai, category 3A difficulty level, first ascent in 1997.

PASSPORT

  1. Snow and ice class.
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
  3. Radistov (Gl.) via the northern slope.
  4. Proposed category 3A (first ascent).
  5. Elevation gain 450 m, length 800 m.
  6. Ice screws 21 pcs.
  7. Total hours from base camp to base camp 12 h.
  8. Approach possible with overnight stay at "Goluboe ozero" (Blue Lake).
  9. Drakin A.V. CMS
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Ascent to the summit of Skazka (3500 m) via the North Buttress of the East Ridge, grade 4A, combined route.

1.85

Ascent Report

to v. Skazka via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge (along the route) I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Akaya, North-Chuya Belki. 3. Skazka peak, 3500 m, ascent via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge, route is combined. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 4th difficulty grade — 360 m, average steepness — 40°. 6. Pitons hammered in:

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bolshaya Krasavitsa via Krasivyy Pass and Psygansu Glacier.

Б­.­краса­ви­ца

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Description of a 3B category route to the Snezhnaya summit via the North-West face in the Severo-Chuysky Range in Altai.

Passport

  1. Ice class
  2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Aktru gorge.
  3. V. Snezhnaya via the northwestern wall.
  4. Proposed category 3B (first ascent).
  5. Elevation gain 500 m. Length 750 m.
  6. Ice screws 26 pcs.
  7. Moving time 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
  8. Overnight stay not required.
  9. Leader Kirikov A.
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Description of the 2B category complexity route to the Snizhnaya summit in Altai via the western couloir of the northern ridge, including details on traversing icefalls and ice slopes.

V. Snezhnaya 3. North ridge couloir Drakin A.V. Altai. May 4, 1992

Passport

  1. Class: snow-ice.
  2. Altai: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Akturu gorge.
  3. V. Snezhnaya via the western couloir of the north ridge.
  4. Proposed category 2B first ascent.
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Description of the first ascent of the ice route of 3A category of complexity via the north-western slope of the Snezhnaya peak (3800 m) in the Severo-Chuysky ridge, Altai Republic.

As­cent cer­ti­fi­cate №1 Re­gion — Re­pub­lic of Al­tai, Se­ver­no-Chuйsky ridge Moun­tain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the cen­ter of the north­west slope Sup­posed — CA cat. dif., first as­cent. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: dif­fe­rence in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sec­tions 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Av­er­age steep­ness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Num­ber of mov­ing hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Iv­liev An­drey Vla­di­mi­ro­vich 1st sports rank

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Report on the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwest slope, a new ice first ascent of category 4A.

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

  • Kulishova Alena Maratovna
  • Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
  • Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich
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Ascent to the summit Snezhnaya (3800 m) in Altai via the ice gully of the southern wall, grade 5A-5B, first ascent in 1991.

PASSPORT

  1. Climbing category — technical.
  2. Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
  3. Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
  4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).
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