Ascent Record

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

• Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
• Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.

168

PASSPORT

1. Class — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Achkasova via the north ridge.
4. Proposed 3B cat. dif. (first ascent).
5. Height 3696 m, height difference 680 m, length 1230 m, average slope 33°.
6. Pitons — 6 cams, 8 ice screws.
7. Climbing hours 18 (from camp to camp).
8. Recommended to camp on the glacier at the start of the route.

1.2. ASCENT REPORT. Region — Altai. Peak — Pik 2000-letiya khristianstva, approximately 3500 m. Route — Combined. Expected category of difficulty — 2B. Height difference — 800 m. Distance — 1200 m. Average slope — 30°. Technical equipment used — ice screws, crampons, ice axes. Climbing hours — 8–9 hours from the bivouac.

9 171

PASSPORT

1. Category — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Geodezicheskaya via the northern ridge.
4. Proposed category: 3A (first ascent).
5. Height 3529 m, elevation gain 480 m, length 950 m, average slope 32°.
6. Climbing time 12 hours (from camp to camp).
7. Overnight stay — not required.
8. Equipment — 8 ice screws.

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge. 1.2
2. Geroev Altaya peak via the northwestern slope of the eastern ridge. Height 3511 m (measured using GPS).
3. Category 2B, second ascent proposed. (First ascent made on August 22, 2000 by Barnov S.I. with Komissarov D.A.)
4. The nature of the route is snow-ice.
5. Elevation gain 480 m, length 1050 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 35–40°, entire route 30–35°.
6. Ice screws used on the route — 22.
7. Climbing hours 5 h 30 min from the glacier to the summit.
8. Leader: Markin N.L. — 1st sports category. Team members:

Heroes of Altai peak via the northwestern slope Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge 1.2

Passport

1. Category: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Heroes of Altai peak, via the northwestern slope, ice and snow.
4. Proposed — category 4A difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 480 m; length – 1050 m. Length of category V sections – 15 m. Average slope:

Passport

1. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakbak gorge, 1:2 scale
2. The summit of Geroev Altaya via the center of the North-West slope, height 3511 m (GPS measurement).
3. Proposed category — 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type — ice
5. Elevation gain: 480 m; length — 1100 m. Average steepness of the route — 35–45 degrees. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 80 m.
6. Number of pitons used on the route: ice screws — 24.
7. Team's travel time: 6 h 30 min from the glacier to the summit;

10 173 2А

1. Class - first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. V. Dvoynaya (C) via the northern ridge.
4. Proposed 2A cat. difficulty (first ascent).
5. Height 3480 m, elevation gain 540 m, length 1250 m, average slope 25 °.
6. 11 hours of climbing time (from camp to camp).
7. Overnight stays - no need.
8. In a team of two: Drakin A. V., CMS; Okhremenko I. N., 1st sports category.
9. Coach Drakin A. V., 1st category No. 68.