Northeastern Altai
Route Description: 3 склону
Description of the first ascent of category 4 complexity on Chuysky Peak (3777 m) in the South-Chuya ridge on Altai.
PASSPORT
- Category of first ascents.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
- Pik Chuyskiy 3rd slope.
- Proposed 4B category of difficulty for the first ascent.
- Height 3777 m. Elevation gain 460 m. Length 680 m.
- Pitons: 29 ice screws for belay.
- Climbing hours: 14.
- Overnight stays: not necessary.
- Leader: Andrey V. Drakin, Candidate Master of Sports.
Route Description: Сестра (Ср-З), траверс
Traversing Sestra (Middle) and Sestra (3) peaks in Altai, cat. 2B, combined route, 800 m, 5 hours from the bergshrund.
Passport
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol gorge (Sofiysky glacier area), 1.3
- Sister (Middle) – Sister (3) 3721 m traverse.
- Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
- Route type — mixed.
- Height difference 225 m. Distance 800 m. Average slope of the main part of the route 29°, total route 22°.
- Ice screws used — 6.
- Total climbing time — 5 hours (from the bergschrund).
- Leader Drakkin Andrey Valentinovich CMS, 1st sports category, № 68.
- Participants: Abornev S. — 3rd sports category
Route Description: СВ гребню
Route description to the summit Ostriy via NE ridge, category IIb, Altai, South Chuya ridge.
Passport
- First Ascent
- Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol River valley
- v. Ostyry via NE ridge
- Proposed category 2B
- Height 3731 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 680 m
- Pitons: Ice screws — 8 pcs.
- Total climbing time 12 hours from bivouac to bivouac 7 hours from bergschrund below the ridge to the glacier under S ridge
Route Description: С ребру
Description of a 1B category difficulty route to Ostriy peak via the north edge in the South Chuya ridge in Altai.
PASSPORT
- First Ascent
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge
- v. Ostriy via N ridge
- Category 1B difficulty proposed
- Height 3751 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 850 m
- Equipment: ice screws — 3 pcs.
- Overnight stays: not required
- Climbing time 10 hours from bivouac to bivouac, 5 hours from glacier to glacier.
- Leader: Barnov S.I. — 1st sports category
Route Description: Ольга (В - З), траверс
Report on the traverse of Olga peaks (Eastern - Western) in the South Chuya ridge of Altai, category of complexity 2A.
Ascent Passport
- Altai, South Chuya Range, classifier section 1.3
- Olga (Eastern — Western), traverse.
- Proposed category: 2A.
- Route type: ice and snow.
- Route elevation gain: 700 m. Route length: 1970 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 27°.
- Pitons left on the route Total: 0, drilled pitons: 0.
- Team's total climbing time: 25 hours, 2 days.
Route Description: В ребру
Category IIIb route to the summit of Ksenia (3634 m) in Altai, combined, first ascent in 2004.
Passport
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, KMGV section 1.3
- v. Ksenia, 3634 m, E. ridge
- Proposed 3B cat. diff., first ascent.
- Route type — combined.
- Route elevation gain — 295 m (by altimeter). Route length — 850 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 0 m. 6 cat. diff. — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 65°, entire route 24°.
- Pitons left on the route: total — 0, including bolted — 0. Used on the route: rock hooks — 6, chocks — 7.
Route Description: с северо-востока
First ascent description of Kseniya Peak (3633 m) via North-Eastern Edge in the South-Chuya ridge of Altai, category of complexity 2B.
Passport
- Category — first ascent.
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge.
- Peak Ksenia via NE ridge. 3633 m?
- Assumed category 2B.
- Elevation gain 350 m, distance 640 m.
- Ice screws 12 pcs.
- Climbing time — 7 hours (from bergshrund to bergshrund).
- Night bivouac on the upper Sofiysky Glacier field.
Route Description: левой части СЗ склона
Description of a category 3A route to the summit of Irbistu via the left part of the North-West slope in the South-Chuya ridge on Altai.
| Peak Irbistu (Tymomu) |
|---|
| via the left part of the Northwest slope, |
| 3A — snow-ice climb, |
| Korneev V.S. |
| Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.2. |
Ascent Passport
- Class: snow-ice climb.
- Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley 1.3.
- Peak Irbistu (Tymomu), coordinates 49°45.536 N, 88°05.186 E,
Route Description: центру СЗ склона
Ascent to the summit of **Irbistu** via the center of the North-West slope, category 2B, Altai, South Chuya Ridge.
Irbistu peak via the center of the North-West slope, 2B cat. diff., combined, by Barnov S.I. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.2
Passport
- Class: combined.
- Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
- Irbistu peak via the center of the North-West slope. Coordinates: (49°45.536′ N, 88°05.186′ E, height 3967, 3963 according to navigator)
- Proposed — 2B cat. diff., first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 1000 m (between the summit and intermediate camp: 1157 m); length — 2500 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35 degrees.
Route Description: З ребру
Ascent to the summit Irbistu (3967 m) via the western edge, 1B category of complexity, Altai, South-Chuya Ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Altai, South Chuya Ridge, classifier section 1.3
- Irbistu, 3967 m, via the western edge.
- Proposed category: 1B.
- Route type: combined.
- Elevation gain: 750 m. Route length: 1600 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 28°.
- Pitons left on the route Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.
- Team's total climbing time: 7.5 hours, 1 day.