Peak Irbistu (Tymomu)
via the left part of the Northwest slope,
3A — snow-ice climb,
Korneev V.S.
Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.2.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class: snow-ice climb.
  2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley 1.3.
  3. Peak Irbistu (Tymomu), coordinates 49°45.536 N, 88°05.186 E, height 3967 m, via the left part of the Northwest slope.
  4. Proposed category — 3A cat. dif., first ascent*.
  5. Height difference: from the start of the route to the summit — 1070 m; from the forward camp to the summit — 1160 m; route length — 2500–2600 m; average steepness of the route — 25°.
  6. Pitons used on the route: ice screws — 15.
  7. Travel time: from the start of the route to the summit — 5:00 h; from the start of the route to the forward camp — 8:30 h; from the forward camp to the forward camp — 10:00 h.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Team: Korneev Vladimir Stanislavovich — 1st sports category; Badanov Pavel Alexandrovich — 2nd sports category.
  10. Coach: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich — 1st category (№68).
  11. Departure from the forward camp: 6:10, August 8, 2015. Departure onto the route: 7:30, August 8, 2015. Reaching the ice-snow ridge: 9:30, August 8, 2015. Reaching the saddle: 11:00, August 8, 2015. Reaching the summit: 12:30, August 8, 2015. Start of descent towards the Western rib: 12:40, August 8, 2015. Return to the forward camp: 16:10, August 8, 2015.
  12. Organization: Training camps of the Altai Regional Alpine Federation (AKFA). *Note — the first ascent of the route was made in August 2013 by a group of climbers from AKFA led by Korneev V.S.img-0.jpeg

Fig. 1. Map-scheme of the South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley 1.3.img-1.jpeg

Fig. 2. View from the west at peak Irbistu (Tymomu) (dashed lines indicate the ascent route via 3A and descent from the summit via 1B).

img-2.jpeg

Fig. 3. Scheme of the 3A route via the left part of the Northwest slope.

Sources

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