Ergaki

Mountain range3,901.41 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Climbing passport for Zvezdnyy Vostochnyy peak, complexity category 3B, with a detailed description of the route and approach.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Peak Zvezdny Vostochny 2100 m from Piquantny pass.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
  5. Height difference 110 m, route length 450 m, average slope 35°.
  6. 18 (0) fixed protection elements used on the route.
  7. Number of climbing hours — seven.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Group composition:
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Description of the first ascent of the rock route of 3A category of difficulty to the peak Zvezdny (V) 2190 m in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan. 6.2
  2. Summit — Zvezdny Peak (V) 2190 m via South Ridge
  3. Proposed — Category 3A difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route type — Rock climbing
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain approximately 300 m, length approximately 1000 m
  6. Equipment used on the route: 19 protection pieces
  7. Total climbing hours — 5
  8. Overnight stays — none
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Description of the climbing route with illustrations and a map of the area, including key sections R3-R10.

Sections R3–R7

  • R3
  • R4
  • R5
  • R6
  • R7 Section R5–R6
  • R5
  • R6
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Description of a 3rd category rock climbing route to the Pik Vostochny Zvezdny in the Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing type — rock climbing
  2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
  3. Peak Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via S wall
  4. Claimed as — first ascent
  5. Route characteristics:
  • height difference — 280 m.
  • total length 595 m.
  • length of sections with 4th cat. diff. — 75 m., 3rd cat. diff. — 200 m.
  • average steepness: entire route — 45°.
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Report on the first ascent of a route of category 6A complexity through the center of the North-Eastern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in the Western Sayan.

Peak Zvezdny

2265 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Peak Zvezdny via the center of the NE wall "6A" (rock climbing)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Lebasov E.M., Kopytov F.A., Kovaleva A.V., Novosseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2013

ASCENT DETAILS

  1. Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan, 6.2.13
  2. Peak Zvezdny, via the center of the northeast wall.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Zvezdny, detailing each stage, including belaying, difficulty, and terrain features.

Working notes from 6A Khvostenko on Zvezdny (July 2020) June 29 10:00 departure 10:35 below the route 11:00 start of work 16:00 above the first ledge by 17 m — 2.5 ropes fixed. 1st rope: Ito, Sky, relief. Installed one new bolt in an old hole. 2nd rope: Ito, Sky, 5 m, climbing to the ledge 6B+/6C. Bolts at the station, but better 5 m higher, just a 60 m rope. 3rd rope: 8 m, climbing in boots. Ito on the flake, wet and slime from under the eave, can be bypassed on the left on the fifi hooks. At the end — climbing on wet rock to the bolts on the eave 5C+. From them traverse right 10 m. Two bolts. Slightly left: one Sky hole, wet; friend under the eave; bolt behind the eave; three Sky holes.

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Report on the ascent by the team of Parfyonov A.A. and Lebedov N.M. to Zvezdny peak via the center of the NE wall, category 6A.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2020

REPORT

On the ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai and Moscow, Parfenov A.A. – Lebedev N.M. to Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the Center of the NE wall, 6A (Khvostenko, 01)

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderParfenov A.A. (MS)
1.2Full Name, sports rank of the participantsLebedev N.M. (CMS)
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Report on the first ascent via the center of the Northeast wall of Zvezdny Peak (2265 m) in the Ergaki ridge, 6A difficulty level.

MINISTRY OF SPORTS OF KRASNOYARSK KRAI KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Siberian Federal District Alpinism Championship

2018

  • High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team Kolesnikov K.I.—Smetanin N.A. to peak Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the center of the NE wall

  • First ascent via "Kvadrat"
  • Variant — 6A category of complexity

Contents

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Report on the first ascent of a 6A category route on the right part of the North-Eastern wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in the Sayan Mountains.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Zvezdny via the right part of the northeast wall 6A category of difficulty by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 14, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderAlexander Vladimirovich Zhigalov — Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsTimofey Pavlovich Ivanov — Candidate for Master of Sports
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Description of the first ascent of Zvezdny peak via the NE wall and the NW ridge bastions, category 6A, in the Western Sayan Mountains.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  2. Peak — Zvezdny via the NE wall and the bastions on the NW ridge
  3. Category — 6A, first ascent
  4. Route type — rock
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 600 m. Route length — 830 m. Length of 6B sections — 375 m, 5B sections — 220 m. Average steepness of the main part: first bastion — 80°, second — 80°, third — 90°, whole route — 67°.
  6. Equipment left on the route: pitons — 1, including drilled pitons — 0, chocks — 1. Pitons used on the route:
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