Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Rowaling Kang Shar 6645 m, proposed 6A cat. sl., for the period from October 20, 2023 to October 23, 2023.

I. Climbing Passport

Ascent Passport

1. High-altitude category.
2. Himalayas, Tibet, China, Rongbuk Glacier.
3. Everest 8848 m via the center of the North Face.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route elevation gain: 2648 m. Route length: 5350 m. Section length: Cat. diff. – 740 m, Cat. 1 diff. – 150 m. Average steepness of the main route section – 46°.
6. Hooks left on the route: approximately 140; including pitons: 0. Hooks used on the route: more than 300. Total IT used: 40.

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category 2. Himalayas 3. Mount Everest, 8848 m, NNE wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 2328 m, wall section 1780 m;

• length 3738 m, wall section 2238 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 1790 m; average steepness of the main part of the route 52°.

6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Nuts | Ice and snow |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area: China, Tibet — Himalayas, Rongbuk gorge.
3. Peak: Everest (8848 m) via the Northeast ridge through the North Col.
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Elevation gain (from ABC camp) 2450 m, distance (from ABC) 6000 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. complexity — 25 m 6th cat. complexity — none

6. Number of pitons driven:

rock placements ice screw pitons snow anchors

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Central Himalayas.
3. Everest via the Northeast Ridge with ascent through the North Col (8848 m). 4,5–6B cat. dif.
4. Elevation gain: 2210 m, route length — 5150 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 920 m, 6 cat. dif. — 60 m.
5. Pitons driven: | rock | nuts | ice | snow | | :--------: | :-------: | :------: | :--------: | | 26+39* | 0 | 8 | 40+9* |

Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Himalayas, Central Tibet, East Rongbuk Glacier
3. Mt. Everest via the Northeast Ridge
4. Category 6B difficulty
5. Elevation gain – 3698 m
6. Pitons used | Rock | Ice | Snow | | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 35 | 40 | 40 |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude.
2. Ascent area: Himalayas, Tibet.
3. Peak, route: Chomolungma (Everest 8848 m) via the North-East Ridge.
4. Complexity category: 5B.
5. Height difference:
   • including 2348 m of actual wall section
   • total route length — 2168 m
   • wall section length — 5900 m
   • including 4300 m of 5th complexity category

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing class — high-altitude
2. Himalayas
3. Everest Peak 8848 m via NE ridge
4. Complexity category 5B
5. Elevation difference — from ABC camp to the summit 2448 m
6. Number of travel days — preparation — 33 days
   • ascent — 6 days
7. Intermediate camps: | | |

10.1.26

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: High-altitude
2. Ascent area: Himalayas
3. Peak, route: Everest, via South Col
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B
5. Height difference: 3548 m
   • including wall section — 50 m
   • total route length — 12300 m
   • wall section length — 60 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — high-altitude technical.
2. Central Himalayas.
3. Shishapangma, 8012 m, via North face, classic route.
4. 5th category of difficulty.
5. Pitons used: rock — none; закладок — none; ice — none; шлямбурных — none.
6. Climbing hours: 20 and days — 4.
7. Night bivouacs: 1st at 6500 m; 2nd — 7000 m; 3rd — 7400 m.
8. Leader: Svergun Igor Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of International Class, Kharkov, 26-a, 23 Avgusta st., apt. 73.