Ascent Passport
- Climbing class — high-altitude
- Himalayas
- Everest Peak 8848 m via NE ridge
- Complexity category 5B
- Elevation difference — from ABC camp to the summit 2448 m
- Number of travel days — preparation — 33 days
- ascent — 6 days
- Intermediate camps:
| Base camp | — 5200 m |
| Camp ABC | — 6450 m |
| Camp №1 | — 7050 m |
| Camp №2 | — 7750 m |
| Camp №3 | — 8300 m |
- Leader G. Kirievsky MS
| Participants: | A. Bolotov | MS |
|---|---|---|
| S. Borisov | MSМК | |
| Yu. Ermachek | MS | |
| V. Ragozin | КМС |
- Coach A. Bolotov MS. Departure on the route — April 16, 2002 Summit — May 16, May 18, 2002 Return — May 20, May 22, 2002 to base camp.
Tactical Actions of the Team
The team was divided into 2 groups with the condition that each group had one participant with experience climbing above 8000 m:
- 1st group — Alexey Bolotov and Sergey Borisov
- 2nd group — Yuri Ermachek, Valery Rogozin, and Gennady Kirievsky.
Having two groups increased the chances of success during the ascent if the weather made its own adjustments. The ascent schedule was built on two basic options:
- The first — "three blocks" of acclimatization with the establishment of intermediate camps.
- The second — "two blocks" of acclimatization with the establishment of intermediate camps, if bad weather did not allow for a third acclimatization block.
In each variant — one group replaced the other and there was constant backup for each other. Communication between groups was carried out by radios. The team planned to be ready for the ascent starting from May 14. The use of oxygen was planned only from a height of 8300 m.
The ascent was carried out according to the second variant of the tactical plan:
- On May 15, the 1st group ascended to 8300 m and set up the 3rd camp. The next day, in favorable weather, they made an ascent to the summit of Everest, with Alexey Bolotov making an oxygen-free ascent.
- On May 15, the 2nd group was at North Col (7000 m — the first camp) and the next day ascended to 7750 m — the second camp.
- On May 17, both groups met at 7900 m, exchanged information; the 1st group descended to 7750 m, and the 2nd group ascended to the 3rd camp at 8300 m.
- On May 18, the 2nd group ascended to the summit of Everest in bad weather.
- On May 22, both groups met at Base Camp.
The 100% result of the expedition was noted in Kathmandu by the manager of "Asian Trekking" Tshering Sherpa, who hosted a banquet in honor of the successful expedition.
Tactical Ascent Plan
- I variant
- II variant