INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM CAMP “PAMIR”

REPORT

On the Ascent to Peak Kommunizma

VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE SPUR FROM BEYLYAEV GLACIER

Category of Difficulty: 6th cat.

Team Members:

• STUDENIN B.A.
• KOROVKIN O.A.
• MEDVEDEV V.M.
• CHERNY N.D.

Team Coach: Ovchinnikov A.G.

Central Pamir, 1977

Ascent Route to Peak Kommunizma by the M.A.L. “Pamir-77” team

• --- Visible path
• . . . Invisible path
• ▲ Bivouac locations
• ▲ Summit

In the 1977 season, the coaches' team of the international “Pamir” camp planned to ascend Peak Borodino from Fortambek Glacier. The route was submitted for the USSR championship. As a primary training ascent, it was planned to climb Peak Kommunizma via the southwest ridge spur from Beylyaev Glacier. We received detailed guidance on this route from the coaches of the “Pamir” alplager who had traversed this route in various years:

• International Class Master of Sports B.A. Gavrilov,
• International Class Master of Sports V.L. Lavrenenko,
• Honored Master of Sports, head of the training section of the camp A.G. Ovchinnikov.

Due to work-related necessities, the acclimatization period for most of the team took place in the vicinity of Peak Lenin. Two ascents to Peak Lenin were made (via the “Metla” route and through Razdel’naya Peak), and a first ascent of Peak Izvestiy via the north face was accomplished by a group working on Fortambek.

On August 8, all foreign groups' ascents in the Peak Lenin area were completed, and on August 10, the team assembled in full at Suloev clearing. However, since several foreign groups were still working on the southern side of Peak Kommunizma (notably, an American group ascending Peak Kommunizma via the Nekrasov route), it was decided to forego the ascent of Peak Borodino and limit the climb to Peak Kommunizma from the south, which allowed for some control over their actions.

At 12:00 on August 11, we boarded a helicopter and 20 minutes later, awestruck by the skill of pilot Bondarchuk, we stood on Beylyaev Glacier under the southern wall.

The route via the southwest ridge spur from Beylyaev Glacier is one of the most beautiful and interesting on Peak Kommunizma. It is logical and varied, featuring:

• ice,
• rocks,
• hanging glacier,
• rocks,
• corniced ridge.

In sporting terms, it undoubtedly presents significant interest.

The route was first traversed in 1959 by a group led by K. Kuzmin. The ascent took second place in the Union championship. The next team to pass this route was the USSR Sports Committee's national team led by V. Shataev in 1968. In 1969, two teams ascended Peak Kommunizma via the southwest ridge spur: Chelyabinsk climbers led by A. Ryabukhin and Barnaul climbers led by V. Sibiryakov. In 1970, a Moscow “Trud” expedition worked on Beylyaev Glacier. In poor weather, a group led by V. Bezlyudny traversed the route. Then, there was a hiatus in the history of this route's exploration.

Perhaps the presence of simpler routes from Beylyaev Glacier and the allure of Peak Kommunizma's south wall are the reasons for this.

The summer season of 1977 in the Peak Kommunizma area was characterized by extreme weather instability, more akin to the Khan-Tengri region than Pamir. Moreover, it was evident that a low-snow winter resulted in significant ice exposure. Even the familiar route along the “Burevestnik” ridge was striking for its abundance of ice and an unusual snow condition. According to meteorologist V.N. Freifeld, who has worked on Fortambek Glacier for several years, 1977 differed from previous years due to:

• strong winds;
• fairly low temperatures.

It's worth noting the team's equipment, which, thanks to the efforts of the “Pamir” camp management, was supplied with excellent gear, both domestic and imported. Excellent warm down jackets and sleeping bags effectively protected us from the cold during the ascent. Double boots with “Vibram” soles were warm enough and allowed for free climbing on fairly difficult rock sections. All team members had lightweight alpine backpacks. Soft nylon ropes did not freeze even in severe frost.

The selection of food was made to ensure high calorie content and low weight while considering the tastes of all group members. The following products performed well:

• smoked sausage,
• roasted meat,
• lard.

Sublimated soups effectively compensated for the lack of carbohydrates. Powdered fruit drinks were our favorite beverage throughout the ascent.

Chronicle of the Ascent

August 11, 1977. At 14:00, the helicopter dropped the group on Beylyaev Glacier at an altitude of 4400 m. Considering the climatic conditions of that year (low snow, significant ice exposure), it was decided to approach the spur not from the right, as Ryabukhin and Bezlyudny's groups had done, but from the left. By 16:00, the group was under the ice couloir leading to the spur.

With crampons and piton protection, we approached the bergschrund (sect. R0–R1). The bergschrund (sect. R1–R2) was traversed on ladders. Beyond the bergschrund, the slope's steepness increased. Progress was hindered by the calcareous nature of the ice (sect. R2–R3).

Alternating, with piton protection, we reached the spur's crest, abutting a steep rock wall. The rocks (sect. R3–R4) were steep and heavily fragmented. In the upper part, there were individual boulders with ice between them. From the rocks, we transitioned to a snowy ridge (sect. R4–R5) with cornices. The ridge again met a rock wall with an overhang. We traversed it using a ladder (sect. R5–R6). From the wall, we moved to a snowy ridge with very loose snow.

We managed to create a campsite from snow and ice under the shelter of a rock wall in the upper part of a “tooth.”

August 12, 1977. A clear, frosty morning instilled hope for good weather. At the top of the “tooth,” there were old pitons and loops. We descended on a rope to the corniced ridge (sect. R7–R8). Along the ice ridge (sect. R8–R9), covered with a thin layer of snow in the lower part, we reached under the hanging glacier. Directly in front of us was a 40-meter high ice wall. Downward, a smooth, sheer west wall of the spur descended.

We bypassed the hanging glacier on the left and, traversing a steep ice slope (sect. R9–R10), reached under an ice gully, which we ascended to the upper icefall. We crossed two crevasses, the upper edges of which were 1.5–2 m higher than the lower, and emerged onto a slope (sect. R11–R12) covered with a thin layer of snow. We traversed it, orienting towards the right (by direction) edge of the large upper drop. The steep traverse of the drop was complicated by loose “Tian Shan” snow, an unexpected “gift” on the ascent to Peak Kommunizma. The first climber, Studenin, literally dug a trench in the deep snow.

At 19:00, we settled for the night in a convenient hollow under the shelter of the upper edge of the bergschrund.

August 13, 1977. After traversing under the bergschrund, we reached a rock ridge in the area of the lower wall, composed of individual black blocks (sect. R14–R15). Further, there was a ridge (sect. R15–R16) interspersed with small gendarmes, abutting a wall (sect. R16–R17). The latter was traversed using artificial holds.

Next came a section of relatively easy (sect. R17–R18 and sect. R18–R19) but heavily fragmented rocks. Further up, there were complex rocks. The sun had already set, but according to our plan, we needed to reach the western shoulder “6900,” into a familiar, convenient hollow. The path upward was clear.

Along the ridge, composed of monolithic granites, under a wall with an overhang (sect. R19–R20). Climbing was very difficult but enjoyable due to the solid rock. Already in the dark, along a simple snowy ridge (sect. R22–R23), we reached the crest of the western shoulder and, on a steep snow-ice slope, hacked out a platform and set up a tent.

August 14, 1977. The weather was very poor. It was snowing. Strong wind. Visibility was 15–20 m. In the middle of the day, we decided to dismantle the tent and move to the planned overnight location.

After traversing 300 m along the steep corniced ridge (sect. R23–R24), we stopped for the night in a convenient hollow at an altitude of 6900 m, at the usual assault camp location.

August 15, 1977. The weather remained poor, but we decided to proceed. The strong wind blowing across the slope was particularly unpleasant, forcing us to move with our faces turned to one side. At 8:30, we were under the bergschrund, which we traversed on an ice bridge, and along a familiar slope (sect. R24–R25), we ascended to the eastern sharp snow-ice ridge. On the ridge, the wind was even stronger. Cautiously, with variable protection, we ascended to the summit of Peak Kommunizma. On sect. R25, the snow was exceptionally unpleasant: sometimes as hard as ice, sometimes loose. At 15:00, we began our descent from the summit and by 17:00 were in the hollow at 6900 m. After a hour's rest, we began our descent and by 20:00 had set up a tent in the eastern part of the plateau at an altitude of 5800 m.

August 16, 1977. Early in the morning, before the snow on the plateau had softened, we dismantled the bivouac and by 13:00 were enjoying water from a small lake on the “camel.” Another 5 hours of descent, and by 18:00, having overcome the last, most difficult (5 m) ascent of a grassy slope, we were at Suloev clearing.

TEAM MEMBERS OF MAL “PAMIR”

| № | Full Name | Year of Birth | Sports Rank | Sports Society | Number of Previous Ascents to Peak Kommunizma | Notes | | : | :----------------------------- | :------------ | :------------------ | :------------- | :-------------------------------------------- | :------------------------------- | | 1 | STUDENIN Boris Andreevich | 1934 | IMS | Spartak | 3 | “Snow Leopard” (twice) | | 2 | KOROVKIN Oleg Aleksandrovich | 1947 | CMS | Spartak | 1 | 5 ascents to peaks around 7,000 m | | 3 | MEDVEDEV Vladimir Makarovich | 1939 | MS | Spartak | 2 | “Snow Leopard” | | 4 | CHERNY Nikolay Dmitrievich | 1938 | CMS | Burevestnik | 3 | 8 ascents to peaks around 7,000 m |

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE TO PEAK KOMMUNIZMA VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE SPUR FROM BEYLYAEV GLACIER 6th CAT., TRAVERSED BY THE MAL “PAMIR” TEAM LED BY IMS B. STUDENIN ON AUGUST 11–15, 1977