Report

On the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the left edge of the north-eastern wall from the Ordzhonikidze Glacier by the LGS team of "Spartak" DSO

• August 3–17, 1972
• First ascent.

III. General Description of the Route

The eastern ridge of Peak Kommunizma, by which the first ascent was made in 1933, is the right (orographic) side of the Ordzhonikidze Glacier. The orientation of the ridge is close to latitudinal, and its slopes are steep walls exposed to the North.

Due to the northern orientation, the walls have significant glaciation, often expressed in the form of hanging glaciers.

As one advances towards the upper reaches of the Ordzhonikidze Glacier, the steepness of the walls increases, reaching its maximum at the junction of the main massif of Peak Kommunizma and the ridge leading to Peak Izvestiy. The summit of the North shoulder of the Peak Kommunizma massif (around 4.8 km) is dominant over the Ordzhonikidze Glacier cirque. Here, the ice masses can no longer cling to the slope (steepness reaches 60–65° in the middle and about 80° in the upper part of the wall) and expose rocky outcrops. This is the northern wall of Peak Kommunizma (Photo 2). The wall is bounded on the right by the icefall from the ridge between Peak Kommunizma and Peak Izvestiy, and on the left by a hanging glacier. The rocks are schist. The orientation of the strata is inclined, so the rocky masses intersect the wall from right to left at an angle of about 45°.

The icy slopes between the rocky walls and the schistose nature of the massif stimulate frequent avalanches and rockfalls crossing the rocky outcrops. These circumstances deprive climbers of natural shelters and dividing counterforts when ascending the wall centrally.

In the right part of the wall, the inclination of the strata changes. Here, three parallel rocky-ice counterforts rise vertically, leading to the ridge of Peak Kommunizma directed towards Peak Izvestiy. However, powerful cornices on the ridge exclude any possibility of ascending this variant.

The left part of the wall (Eastern edge) is free from falling ice and snow avalanches. The lower half of the edge is entirely icy. The fracture of the ice masses towards the bed of the hanging glacier creates a dissected relief, hindering the formation of extensive snowfields and creating numerous shelters for bivouacs.

In the upper part, the edge is intersected by two rocky belts. The ascent up the edge leads to the base of a rocky triangle, the apex of which is the North shoulder of Peak Kommunizma.

A direct ascent to the edge from the glacier is impossible because the path is crossed by the fall line of the hanging glacier. The frequency of ice falls here reaches 1–2 times a day.

However, in the upper reaches of the glacier, there is a hanging cirque with two terraces extending parallel to the wall. The terraces are separated by a mighty bergschrund 15 to 50 meters wide. Movement along the lower terrace is relatively safe and leads to steep snow-ice slopes, up which one can ascend to the end of the edge. The average steepness of the wall along the edge is 55°. The height difference is 2.2 km.

IV. Team Composition

1. Borisyenok O. N. — MS — team captain, release officer.
2. Dyachenko Ya. V. — MS — deputy team captain, description compiler.
3. Kolchin A. M. — MS — participant, photographer.
4. Maerkovich V. V. — MS — participant, photographer.
5. Ilyin A. A. — CMS — participant, responsible for equipment.
6. Borovikov A. V. — CMS — participant.
7. Koltsov A. I. — CMS — participant.
8. Kozharin B. K. — CMS — participant.
9. Grekhov I. V. — 1st sports category — senior observer.
10. Evstifeev L. M. — 2nd sports category — observer.

NOTE: The first eight participants are registered and approved by the USSR Alpine Federation for participation in the 1972 USSR Alpine Championship.

VI. Route Ascent

During the ascent, as well as during the reconnaissance trips, communication with the base camp was maintained via the "Nedra-P" radio station. Throughout the entire expedition and ascent in particular, the communication was absolutely stable and reliable. Additionally, from a height of approximately 6900–7000 m, the group was visible in optical instruments from the base camp.

There was also an agreement on light signal communication using flares if necessary.

It should also be noted that the group used "Vitalka" type radio stations on the route for communication between rope teams, especially during the first half of the ascent, which was extremely convenient and often simply necessary.

August 3, 1972 — At the "5000" camp on the Ordzhonikidze Glacier, all work on dismantling the camp is completed. At a height of 5500 m, the Kolchin–Borovikov team, which had departed the day before, is processing ice ascents. The team is being observed, and radio communication is maintained via the "Vitalka" station.

Departure at 14:00. Clear, no wind. The R1–R2 section was traversed quickly due to the tracks from previous ascents. Overcoming the 45° ascent (R2–R3 section), we remove the belay rope on the icy slope and exit onto a terrace (R3–R4 section). The snow becomes quite firm, and it's easy to walk. All attention is focused upwards, where avalanches can occur along the avalanche gullies. After half an hour, we reach a steep snow ascent (R4–R5 section). Here, excellent steps are trodden, and belay points are established (Photo 3). We ascend to a slightly pronounced dome and along it (R5–R6 section) reach the "5400" camp.

August 4, 1972 — Clear, no wind. Departure from the "5400" camp at 8:00. The path — bypassing ice falls along a snowy slope of increasing steepness — leads to a bergschrund (R6–R7 section). Here, belay ropes are hung, we pass a steep wall and exit onto a steep ice slope.

Photo 2. The left edge of the north-eastern wall, bivouac locations, and route participants.

Photo 3. Steep snow ascent at the beginning of the route (R4–R5 section).

(R7–R8 section). As we ascend, the steepness almost reaches vertical (R8–R9 section). Here, there is no longer any support for crampons, feet slip on the wall, and we use pitons. Further, the steepness decreases somewhat, but every step is still difficult — the steepness sometimes reaches 60° (R9–R10 section). Another bergschrund. Then, a snowy slope of moderate steepness, where we can finally take off our backpacks and rest (R10–R11 section), followed by another ice ascent interspersed with snow. Sometimes the snow becomes sticky, clogs crampons, and hinders movement; at other times (on crusts), it allows us to kick firm steps. The ascent (R11–R12 section) leads to "ice gates" — on the left and right, two mighty ice towers, and beyond the "gates," another ascent, and finally, a planned bivouac site (Photo 4). There's space for two tents here, and an ice wall protects the bivouac from possible icefalls.

August 5, 1972 — Overcast, windy. The Borisyenok–Dyachenko team departs to process the route, while the others are engaged in transporting cargo left at the R9–R10 section to the "5800" camp. Movement upwards leads to a sheer ice wall. A detour is impossible, but there is a possibility of traversing along the sheer face (R12–R13 section). Belay — ice screws; supports — also pitons. After 15 m of traversing, we manage to exit onto the edge of a bergschrund (R13–R14 section). Here, the ascent is vertical, to the left. The length is 3 m, but to create supports, it's necessary to carve out niches. Having overcome the bergschrund, we exit onto a moderately steep snow-ice field (R14–R15 section). After two rope lengths, the steepness increases sharply: we enter the ice fields of the middle part of the edge. Initially, around 60°, then two rope lengths at 55° (R15–R16 section). The structure is firn, very hard, unsuitable for cutting steps. Movement is on the front teeth of crampons. Further, the slope becomes gentler (around 50°), but the firn is interspersed with ice crust (Photo 5). A total of 160 m, R16–R17 section. Higher up the slope, there is an ice crevasse. Here, the steepness increases again (R17–R18 section). From here, the team descends back to the "5800" camp.

August 6, 1972 — Windy, drifting snow, fog. The whole group departs upwards. Up to the R17–R18 section, one of the teams carries load and descends to the "5800" camp, while the second team continues the ascent. At the junction of R18–R19, we overcome a difficult ice crevasse (Photo 6). We exit onto a vaguely defined ice ridge (R18–R19 section). There are no convenient bivouac sites. The bad weather intensifies. We have to carve out a platform for tents in the ice. After three hours of exhausting work, we manage to carve out a niche and set up a tent with one slope. This is the "6200" camp (Photo 7).

August 7, 1972 — Bad weather continues. The Borisyenok–Dyachenko team departs to process the route upwards (R19–R20 section). We manage to traverse 120 m of a difficult ice ridge. Belay ropes are hung, steps and ledges are cut out in the ice. The bad weather rages on. Snowfall, wind. Descent to the "6200" camp.

August 8, 1972 — Still strong wind, snowfall. Again, Borisyenok–Dyachenko depart upwards. Having traversed another 100 m along the steep ice ridge (R20–R21 section), they approach the base of a mighty rocky bastion. This is the first rocky belt. There's no detour here. The path is directly upwards along very steep accretion ice (around 65°) (R21–R22 section). Steps and ledges are cut out, belay ropes are hung (Photo 8). A very difficult transition from ice to rock. We hammer ice screws into schist. Finally, we manage to exit onto a small platform (R22–R23 section). From here, we descend again. The whole group is gathered in the camp: the team from below has arrived.

August 9, 1972 — Strong wind, overcast, but snow has stopped falling. Departure of all teams upwards. Despite the steepness, it's easy to follow the processed route using belay ropes. The first rocky belt is located at a significant height (around 6300 m), so the rocks here are covered in ice (Photo 9). Despite the relatively moderate steepness, it's necessary to proceed with extreme caution. Movement towards the ridge (R23–R24 section).

Photo 10. Snow-ice sharp ridge (R26–R27 section).

Direct ascent to the ridge is blocked by a low pinnacle about 3 m high, but ascending "head-on" is very challenging: the wall is sheer, and holds are covered in ice (R24–R25 section). Further, there's an ice ridge of varying steepness from 40 to 50° (R25–R26 section). Steps and ledges are cut out, belay — ice screws. Having traversed 120 m along the ridge, we carve out platforms in the ice for a bivouac. The height is around 6500 m.

August 10, 1972 — Clear, no wind. The general direction is movement along the ridge. The steepness of the ridge is not great, but the ridge itself is sharp and lacks a reliable base. Snow on the ridge is not firmly fixed (Photo 10). Slowly, step by step, treading out steps and belay points, the first team, Kolchin–Ilyin, advances (R26–R27 section). The inclination of the ridge decreases, becoming horizontal. Simultaneously, the ridge narrows, complicating movement (R27–R28 section). Gradually, the ridge widens, turning into a small firn plateau directly adjacent to the second rocky belt (Photo 11). On the plateau, the whole group can finally gather (R28–R29 section). A short rest, and then the Borisyenok–Ilyin team heads towards the steep, heavily iced rocks of the second belt (Photo 12).

We put on crampons, but even they are not a complete guarantee against slipping: the inclination of the rock strata is unfavorable, and often crampons slip with an unpleasant screech. Belay — pitons. We tension belay ropes (R29–R30 and R30–R31 sections). In the second half of the day, the weather deteriorates, with drifting snow and fog. Having passed the rocky belt, we stop for a bivouac. The height is 6700 m (Photo 13).

August 11, 1972 — Clear, no wind. Directly from the tents, an acute ice "knife" begins, resting against an ice wall (R31–R32 and R32–R33 sections). Having overcome the wall, we exit onto an extensive firn field (R33–R34 section). Gradually, the slope steepness increases (Photo 14). Snow fields lead to the base of the "triangle" (R34–R35 section). It's not worth going further — a steep ascent of the "triangle" begins. It's not safe to bivouac on its steep slopes. We prefer to bivouac in the bergschrund under the "triangle". The Borisyenok–Dyachenko team, having taken a solid supply of ropes and pitons, departs to process the "triangle". They return late in the evening, where they find tents, sleeping bags, and dinner in the "7100" camp (Photo 15).

August 12, 1972 — Clear, frosty. From the bivouac, straight up through the bergschrund and then onto a snowy slope (R35–R36 section), the slope steepness is no less than 45°, and higher up, it becomes even steeper. Snow ends, transitioning into firn and finally ice (R36–R37 section), with a steepness reaching 50°. Further, there are rocks heavily covered in ice. This is the key location on the slope of the "triangle" (R37–R38 section). The steepness reaches 60°, and there are no places to hammer in a piton, which seems endless. Sometimes Borisyenok, who is leading, clears the ice cover over an area of at least 4 m² before finding a desired crack. With great pleasure, we exit onto an ice slope (R38–R39 section) — here, the issue of hammering in pitons is not a problem (Photo 16). Two rope lengths up the slope, and we're on something resembling an ice counterfort.

Now, the view opens up to the summit of the "triangle"; it's clear that we won't reach the ridge today, but there's no safer place for a bivouac ahead. The endless cutting out of a niche for the night begins. How to carve out two tons of ice without dropping a single piece on the heads of comrades below is very difficult to describe. In any case, by the end of the third hour of work, we have something resembling a sitting bivouac. Between two tents — a rope runner. We exchange food, necessary items, equipment.

August 13, 1972 — Clear, sunny. Without waiting for breakfast, the Dyachenko–Maerkovich team departs to process:

• First, a traverse of a steep ice couloir (R39–R40 section),
• then upwards along an ice slope (R40–R41 section).

Having hung two rope lengths, the team descends, and they are replaced by Borisyenok and Ilyin. The ice slope is very steep (R41–R42 section), belay ropes are hung, and steps are cut out. Thus, another 100 m are traversed. And suddenly Borisyenok, whom we see above us against the backdrop of a snowy slope and blue sky, disappears from view, then his head appears, and he waves an ice axe at us — that's the ridge!

Along the ridge, linked in two teams of four, we move forward towards the summit, which we finally see after many days against the backdrop of the evening sky. The ridge is marked with tracks from previous groups. Firn on the ridge is dense; sections R42–R43, R43–R44, R44–R45, and R45–R46 do not present technical difficulties. The main tasks are:

• to gain as much height as possible,
• to find a bivouac site protected from the wind.

We find a suitable platform at a height slightly above 7300 m. Finally, we can unclip. We set up tents and build a protective wall.

August 14, 1972 — At night, the wind shakes the tent fabric. By morning, the wind strengthens, the sky is clear, and there's a strong frost. On this day, we first break with tradition and depart very late: at 10:00. We move in pairs.

The ascent section:

• First, 100 m upwards along a not very steep ridge (R46–R47 section),
• then another 100 m along a gentle ridge leading to the summit ascent.
• Three rope lengths separate us from the summit, which we traverse easily.

The snow structure is favorable, and in some places, steps from previous groups remain. At 12:00, the entire group ascends to the summit of Peak Kommunizma. Descent is via the Tamm route.

Further descent is via the Tamm route. A total of 68 walking hours were spent on the ascent. 101 pitons were hammered in (81 ice, 20 rock).