Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
5. Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |

1. CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
2. CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
3. CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
4. CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
   • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
   • AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
   • LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
5. PITS SET:
   • ROCK PITS — 173
   • ICE PITS — 51

1. Climbing category – high-altitude and technical
2. Climbing region, ridge – Pamir, Fortambek glacier, Peter I Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, route – Peak E. Abalakova, 6446 m, via the N wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category – 5B (second ascent)
5. Route characteristics: height difference 2350 m length of difficult sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty 1410 m average steepness 66°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying – 163, for creating artificial anchors – 0 steel – 148 (15 of them at bivouacs), ice – 15, bolt – 0

1. Class of ascent

• Altitude-technical;

2. Region of ascent

• North-West Pamir, Petra Pervogo Ridge;

3. Peak, its height, route

• peak Evgenia Abalakova, 6446 m via the north face;

4. Estimated difficulty category

• Sixth;

5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 2300 m;

Report on the Ascent of

Peak Korzhenevskaya via the Left Bastion of the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B, by the "Black Ice" Team from July 23 to July 28, 2022

I. Route Passport

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the Left Part of the North Face

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. The highest point of the former USSR. Peak Kommunizma (Ismoili Somoni) 7495 m. Claimed category: 6A (winter). First ascent. In terms of complexity and conditions, a normal 6B. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 2500 m. Route length: approximately 5500 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 1400 m, II — 2700 m, III — 230 m, IV — 800 m, V — 200 m, VI — 165 m.
3. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 75°.
4. Number of pitons left on the route: total — 30.
5. Total number of ice screws used on the route: 240.
6. Total number of artificial anchors (AAs) used: 50.
7. Team's total climbing hours after processing the route: 4 hours.
8. Team:

Ascent

to Peak Kommunizma from Walter Glacier via the spur with an exit to the ridge between Peaks Izvestiy and 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. Protocol No. 422 dated 09.11.1976. Classify the route: traverse of Peak 6700 m — Peak Kommunizma with ascent via the northwest spur and Voykov Ridge, ice and snow. Credit the group with the first ascent.

First Ascent

by the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group, led by N. Cherny. Peak Kommunizma is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, at the junction of the Peter I and Academy of Sciences ranges. Its northwest slopes descend onto the Pamir Firn Plateau. The plateau drops steeply to the north onto the Walter and Traube glaciers. The northern slopes of Peaks 50th Anniversary of VLKSM (6700 m) and Izvestiy descend onto the first glacier. Two routes to Peak Kommunizma have been established from Walter Glacier: the Borodkin route, which exits onto the plateau, and the Bezzubkin route, which exits onto Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. The MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group made an ascent of Peak Kommunizma via a new route from Walter Glacier. The route follows a snow and ice spur that leads to the ridge between Peak Izvestiy and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. From there, the group followed a previously established path via Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM and then along the northeast ridge of Peak Kommunizma to its summit. The descent followed the ascent route down to the saddle between Peak Kommunizma and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM, then the group descended onto the firn plateau and along the "Burevestnik" ridge to Fortambek Glacier. The group departed from the base camp with the following members:

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak, 30th by height, climbing route — Peak Communism, 7495 m above sea level, via the counterfort from Walter Glacier, route by N. Chyorny.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3495 m, length of category difficulty sections: 5 — 2500 m, category difficulty 6 — 300 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 10, ice — 30, bolt — C.
7. Number of travel hours — 41.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 4 nights on snow in a tent.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. Studenin B. A., Master of Sports of International Class, team leader.

The climbing object announced by the group of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" is well-known among Soviet mountaineers. It is the highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) with an ascent to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau via Borodkin's route. For this reason, this report omits a geographical overview of the area, the history of its development, and a description of the approaches to the route. A few words should be said about the meteorological conditions in the area in July-August 1976.

• From July 5 to 20, the weather was stable: clear, with little wind even at heights up to 7000 m.
• After July 20, the weather became unstable. For example, on July 21, during the descent from Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, the group had to walk for a whole day with visibility not exceeding 500 m.
• From July 23 to 27, low cloud cover and continuous light rain were observed in the area. At an altitude of 7000 m, there was a very strong wind, and snow caught the group of the Tajik Medical-Biological Expedition, which, after waiting out the bad weather in a storm camp, was forced to abandon the ascent.
• However, during the ascent on August 7-9, the weather was good, but it was very cold: on the night of August 6-7, the minimum temperature at an altitude of 6000 m was –28 °C.

Acclimatization and training ascent

The group of climbers arrived at the Buluiev clearing as part of the collective of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" on August 8, having previously made an acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4500 m in the Achik-Tash clearing area. On July 1, all group members left the base camp for an acclimatization hike. The main objectives of the exit were: