Yazgulem Range

Mountain range4,416.36 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Peak Kholodnaya Stena, route description, elevation 5975 meters.

п.­ Kho­lo­d­naya ste­na 5975

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First ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) by the Eastern wall, 6B cat. of difficulty, Yazgulemskiy ridge.

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Difficulty Category. 2. Yazgulsky Ridge, Havraz-dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, route length — 1925 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1370 m. 6 category of difficulty — 640 m, 5 category of difficulty — 750 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, sections 23–48 (5160–5780). 6. Pitons driven:

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First ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) via the Eastern wall, category 6B difficulty, in the Yazgulem ridge.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Altitude-technical class. 2. Yazgulemsky ridge, Khavraz-Dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, length - 1925 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 1370 m. 6B category of difficulty - 640 m, 5B category of difficulty - 730 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, section R23-R48 (5180-5780). 6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |

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Description of the ascent route through the center of the eastern wall of "Kholodnaya стена" peak (5959 m) in the Pamir mountains, category 6A, with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical features.

Passport

I. High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

  1. Eastern Pamir. Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavrez-dara gorge.
  2. Kholodnaya Stena peak, via the center of the East wall.
  3. 6th category of difficulty, third ascent of the route, which took 1st place at the 1980 USSR Climbing Championship.
  4. Elevation gain: 1660 m, route length — 2150 m (including 70 m of descent).
  5. Section lengths: 6th category — 447 m, 5th category — 904 m. Average steepness of the route: 1st bastion — 70° 2nd bastion — 75°
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Ascent to Peak Golodnaya Stena via the center of the East Face, category of difficulty - high-altitude technical route, elevation gain 1580 m, 7 nights out, 68 walking hours.

I. Ascent category — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Ascent route — p. Kholodnaya Stena 5959 m via the center of the East wall (second ascent, Kovtun's route) 4. Route characteristics:

  • height difference — 1580 m;
  • route length — 2005 m;
  • average steepness — 74°;
  • length of complex sections — 1375 m;
  • average steepness of the "mirror" — 87° with a length of 740 m.
  1. Pitons driven:
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Description of the passage of a category II route via the North face of the peak Holodnaya стена (5970 m) in the Pamir Mountains in 1985.

PASSPORT

  1. High-altitude technical class
  2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
  3. Peak Kholodnaya стена via the center of the North wall 5970 m (Verba route)
  4. 6th category of difficulty, second ascent, 4th overall
  5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, length — 1800 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (4470 – 5850), including 6th category difficulty — 580 m
  6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 169+5x | — | 86 | 65 |
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Captain Valery Boyko's team making the first ascent of a new route, category 6 difficulty, up the north face of Pik Kholodnaya Stena in the Pamir Mountains in 1985.

  1. Class: high-altitude technical.
  2. Pamir, Khavraz-Dara valley.
  3. Peak Kholodnaya стена (Cold Wall) via the center of the N wall.
  4. Verba's Route, 6B category of difficulty, 1983.
  5. Height difference: 1500 m. Distance: 1830 m. Distance of sections:
  • 1st category of difficulty — 1175 m
  • 6th category of difficulty — 395 m
  1. Pitons hammered in:
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Ascent description of an alpinist team to the summit Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) via the center of the North face in the Pamir mountains, 6B difficulty category.

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir, eastern spurs of the Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, route: Kholodnaya стена, 5979 m, via the center of the North face 4. Difficulty category: 6B 5. Route characteristics:

  • Height difference: 1500 m
  • Length of sections:
    • 6th category difficulty: 760 m
    • 5th category difficulty: 860 m
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Description of the passage of a 6th category difficulty route on the Eastern wall of the Cold Wall peak in the Pamir Mountains by a team led by Igor Bozhko in August 1983.

Passport

  1. Altitude-technical category
  2. Eastern Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range
  3. Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the East face (“silver route” by Salonnikov, at the USSR Championship 1980).
  4. 6B category of difficulty, second ascent
  5. Height difference — 1710 m; length — 2080 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 760 m; average steepness of the main sections 76° (5000–5700 m), including 6 category of difficulty 88° (5300–5700 m).
  6. Pitons hammered:
    CategoryTotalPer day
    Rock30917
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Ascent to the peak "Kholodnaya стена" by the north wall, 6 cat., first ascent made in 1985 by a team led by Babito Kryachyov.

59а

1. Ascent Passport

  1. High-altitude technical climb
  2. Pamir, eastern spurs of Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
  3. Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the central bastion of the north face
  4. Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
  5. Wall section height difference: 1260 m, length: 1450 m. Total height difference: 1500 m, total length: 2000 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 830 m. Average steepness of main sections: 74° (5000–5650 m), including 280 m of 6th category complexity.
  6. Pitons used:
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