Passport

I. High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

2. Eastern Pamir. Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavrez-dara gorge.
3. Kholodnaya Stena peak, via the center of the East wall.
4. 6th category of difficulty, third ascent of the route, which took 1st place at the 1980 USSR Climbing Championship.
5. Elevation gain: 1660 m, route length — 2150 m (including 70 m of descent).
6. Section lengths: 6th category — 447 m, 5th category — 904 m.

Average steepness of the route: 1st bastion — 70° 2nd bastion — 75° mirror — 87° chimney on the tower — 85°

7. Pitons used: rock — 271, protection — 91, ice screws — 10.
8. Team's total climbing hours — 75 hours and 8 days.
9. Overnight stops: 1st — a small icy platform, 2nd — a sloping slab, 3rd-5th — a small platform under the mirror (rockfall hazard during the day), 6th — a narrow ledge (sitting bivouac), 7th — bivouac on a snow-ice ridge.
10. Team leader: Sulimovsky Nikolayevich Ivanovich (Candidate for Master of Sports). Team members: Likhachev Valery Grigoryevich (Candidate for Master of Sports), Petrichenko Nikolay Nikolayevich (Candidate for Master of Sports), Rybalka Konstantin Pavlovich (Candidate for Master of Sports). Departure to the route on August 14, 1983, at 12:00. Summit reached on August 21, 1983. Return to base camp — August 21, 1983.

Photograph 1. General photo of the peak. Shot location F1, March 9, 1983, H = 4650 m (above Soblaznitelny pass), distance to the wall C = 3.7 km, lens I-24 (105 mm).

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area

Kholodnaya Stena peak (5959 m) is located in the Pamir Mountains, in the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky Ridge. To the east of the peak lies the upper Khavrez-dara gorge, and the western slopes of the peak border the Grumm-Grжимайло glacier.

Until recently, this area was unknown to climbers. The presence of complex eastern and northern walls of the peak was first noted by tourists. Not surprisingly, three teams registered to climb this peak in 1980.

• The route via the center of the East wall took 1st place.
• The route via the East wall (Solonnikov's route), which is to the right of V. Kovtun's route, was awarded a silver medal at the championship.

In 1981, Irkutsk climbers made the second ascent of the "golden" route. In 1983, Ukrainian and Moscow climbers continued to tackle Kholodnaya Stena via the East and North walls at the USSR Climbing Championship.

The base camp of the expedition was located on the right bank (orographically) of the largest lake in the Khavrez-dara gorge. To reach the base camp, one needs to:

• Drive from Osh along the Pamir Highway, bypassing Kara-Kul lake.
• Turn right from the highway at the 305 km mark towards Kudaara.
• Cross the Kudaara river via a bridge and follow the trail to Pasrud village.
• From Pasrud village, move along the right (orographically) side of the Khavrez-dara gorge, following the river to the base camp.

The journey from Pasrud village to the base camp takes around 8-10 hours.

It should be noted that, unlike the 1980 expedition, transporting goods via the Khavrez-dara gorge was impossible due to the stronger current of the Khavrez-dara river and its tributaries. Goods were transported to the base camp by helicopter.

There are two possible paths from the base camp to the East wall of the peak:

• via Soblaznitelny pass, bypassing peak 4812 to the left;
• up the gorge, then bypassing peak 4812 to the right.

(see the map of the climbing area).

Tactical Actions of the Team

After several days of observing the route and consulting, the following features of the route were identified: a) significant steepness of the route (up to 85-90°) and considerable length of complex sections (5th, 6th category); b) presence of three cornices belts; c) increased rockfall hazard from the left and right sides of the route, possible rockfall and icefall in the middle part of the route when the slopes are exposed to sunlight until 15:00-16:00; d) presence of several large couloirs along the route, which are natural collectors of rocks and ice; e) lack of good platforms for overnight stops; f) absence of water on the wall (R30-R41).

The most complex and problematic section of the route is R30-R41. The difficulty of passing this section lies in:

• extreme steepness;
• rockfall hazard;
• length;
• lack of water.

There are also no places to set up a bivouac on the wall, so even with preliminary processing of the section, it is not guaranteed that the entire group can pass it in one day.

Considering the route's features, it was decided to move along the R30-R41 section only in the morning and evening. The complexity of the rock terrain dictated the need to change the lead climber on the route; however, frequent changes are associated with time loss and physical, psychological, and technical adjustments for the climbers. Therefore, changing the lead climber or lead team was done no more than once a day under normal route conditions.

Lead teams by day:

• Day 1: Sulemovsky — Likhachev;
• Day 2: Petrichenko — Rybalka;
• Day 3: Likhachev — Rybalka (preliminary processing of the wall);
• Day 4: Sulemovsky — Rybalka;
• Day 5: Sulemovsky — Rybalka;
• Day 6: Likhachev — Rybalka;
• Day 7: Petrichenko — Rybalka;
• Day 8: independent teams.

The wide, steep chimney on the tower is destroyed (R45-R48), making it impossible for two teams to work simultaneously in the chimney. The first team passed the entire section, followed by the second team. The first ascent of the rocky part of the wall was done wearing galoshes. The time schedule is provided on the page.

The overnight stops on the route are poor:

• The first bivouac was on a small platform covered in ice from recrystallized snowdrift;
• The second bivouac was a sitting bivouac without a tent.

Bivouacs under the wall are exposed to rockfall during the day, so the tent was removed during the day, and team members not processing the route would wait out the rockfall under a cornice.

The tactical plan for the route is provided in the appendix. The tactical plan was executed without deviations. Communication with observers and the backup group was regular (3 times a day) using a radio station.

30 m 70° — 5

• 40 m 65° — 4
• 40 m 65° — 4
• 40 m 65° — 4
• 35 m 60° — 4
• Marginal 35 m 40° — 4

35 m 65° — 4

• 40 m 80° — 5
• 40 m 75° — 5
• 30 m 65° — 4
• 40 m 80° — 6
• 40 m 70° — 5
• 40 m 80° — 6
• 38 m 70° — 5
• 20 m 80° — 6
• 16 m 70° — 5
• 37 m 85° — 5
• 7 m 40° — 3
• 28 m 78° — 5
• 32 m 70° — 4
• 35 m 70° — 5
• 35 m 70° — 5
• 30 m 70° — 5

35 m 70° — 5

• 38 m 75° — 5
• 40 m 75° — 5
• 40 m 80° — 5
• 40 m 75° — 5
• 40 m 90° — 6
• 38 m 90° — 6
• 40 m 90° — 6
• 38 m 90° — 6
• 40 m 75° — 5

Total pitons used on the route.

Route Description by Sections

R0-R1

Snow-ice slope with a bergschrund. Rockfall is constant when crossing the bergschrund. Best crossed before sunrise or after 16:00-17:00. Crampons and ice axes necessary.

R2-R13

Rocky bastion. Varied terrain — ridges, ledges, internal corners, and chimneys. Rocks are heavily fragmented, with a risk of rockfall from the rope. No distinct landmarks. Path choice is relatively arbitrary. Difficulty of sections — 5, occasionally 5+. No platform for a tent until the top of the bastion. Upper platforms are inconvenient and icy.

R14-R16

Two rocky couloirs separated by an "island." From sunrise to 16:00, continuous rockfall. Possible snow and ice in the couloirs. After 17:00, rocks freeze quickly. The first couloir is traversed with a 40 m diagonal rappel and a 35 m ascent up a complex (5) wall. The second couloir is traversed with a sporty descent and ascent onto the "ram's foreheads" of the opposite couloir wall. Not recommended to cross in the morning due to the risk of being caught in rockfall with limited time.

R17-R26

Rocky bastion. Similar in relief to the first bastion but slightly steeper, with some sections iced over. Several snowy "mushrooms" at the top of the bastion. Difficulty of sections — 5. Several convenient bivouac platforms available.

R27-R29

Two wide, steep chimneys. The first is blocked by an ice plug, the second has accretion ice. Our team bypassed the first chimney via rocks of 6th category difficulty (60 m). (First ascensionists climbed the chimney as it was ice-free). Sections are constantly exposed to rockfall from sunrise to 16:00.

• Bivouac under the wall — on a small platform with a snow patch.
• Tent must be removed during the day due to rockfall hazard.
• Team members not processing the route can wait out the rockfall on a narrow ledge under a cornice.

R30-R41

Steep wall with numerous small overhangs and three large cornices (cornice belts) protruding several meters. Rocks are heavily fragmented. Climbing is extremely challenging and impossible with backpacks. No insurance platforms; almost all insurance points are hanging.

• Sections R31-R35 are exposed to rockfall when the rocks are heated by the sun until 16:00.
• No water on the wall.
• Bivouac possible only in a hammock.
• Passing the wall is possible and advisable with preliminary processing.
• Ideally, process at least 8-9 ropes; otherwise, the team may have to spend the night in hammocks.
• In the morning, there is 1-1.5 hours of calm before rockfall.

If the team cannot reach section R36 under the cover of the second cornice belt before rockfall, two people can wait it out in the chimney (R32).

R42-R44

Heavily fragmented and iced slope on the ridge.

R45-R48

Steep, wide chimney. No bypass available!!! Extremely challenging climbing. Risk of rockfall from under the rope. Advisable to climb using pre-installed ropes.

• Simultaneous movement of multiple climbers is not allowed due to the lack of protection from falling rocks.

R49-R51

Ridge with snowy drifts like "mushrooms." Move to the left of the ridge as:

• The southern side of the ridge has more rock outcrops.
• Less snow overhangs from cornices.
• Easier to organize insurance.

R52-R53

Snow cornice before reaching the ridge. Cornice wall

Photograph 3. Passage of the wall of the 1st bastion (R27). Shot location F3. August 14, 1983. Shift-3.

Photograph 2. Technical photograph of the route. Shot location F2, August 9, 1983, H = 4300 m, distance to the wall 2000 m, lens I-24 (105 mm).

Photograph 4. Key section of the route. Wall under the first cornice belt (R33). Shot location P4. August 18, 1983. Shift-8.