Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table (2001) - 4.1 Mountain region: Pamir (Tajikistan) Range: at the junction of Akademiya Nauk and Petra Pervogo.
2. Name of the peak: Kommunizm (7495 m), route name: via S slope from Walter's Glacier through BSP and "Big Barrier" (Borodkin's variant via Dushanbe Pass)
3. Category of difficulty – 5Ba
4. Route type: snow-ice
5. Height difference of the route: 3000 m Route length: 7250 m.

Report

On the ascent of the Chelyabinsk regional council team of the "Zenit" sports society to Peak Kommunizma via the 5B category difficulty route for the "Zenit" Central Sports Council championship in the high-altitude climbing class Chelyabinsk, 1972

Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent route

Peak Kommunizma (7495) rises at the junction of the Peter the First and Academy of Sciences ridges (Fig. 1). The main questions of the orography of the Peak Kommunizma mountain node were resolved in 1932 by an expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences. To the northeast of the peak lies the powerful Bivachny glacier, and to the southeast of the summit, at an altitude of 6000–6100 m, lies the "Pravda" peak plateau. To the northwest of the summit, at an altitude of 5700–6000 m, along the Peter the First ridge for ten kilometers, lies the Pamir firn plateau, representing an almost flat snow field. The summit tower of Peak Kommunizma descends steeply on the north and west with rocky slopes. To the west, at an altitude of 6900 m (Photo 1, R11), it is adjoined by a horizontal slope - the "Shoulder" of Peak Kommunizma - which forms the "Big Barrier" of the plateau. From the shoulder, a snow-ice slope descends to the plateau (northwest) with a clearly defined counterfort (Photo 1, R8–R10). This path was first taken by the VTsSPS expedition led by K. Kuzmin in 1957 to reach Peak Kommunizma. The ascent to the plateau was explored and made from the side of the Garmo glacier. And in 1968, three expeditions of the "Burevestnik" sports society conquered Peak Kommunizma from the side of the Fortambek glacier, ascending to the plateau via the "Burevestnik" ridge. Our team chose this route to conquer the highest point of the Soviet Union. Out of nine routes by which Peak Kommunizma has been conquered, this route is one of the safest and is classified as 5B category difficulty (all routes to Peak Kommunizma are rated not lower than 5B category).

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Report

on the traverse of the Kommunisticheskoy Akademii 6175–OGPU peaks, accomplished by the team from the Novosibirsk City Committee for FIS in 1975. Main sections of the traverse of the Komaakademii–5900–OGPU peaks Southern wall of Kommunisticheskoy Akademii peak

3. Tactical Plan of the Ascent

Organization of the Ascent

Report

On the traverse of the peaks of Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya — "6045 m" — Garmo, performed by the combined team of the Armed Forces in 1972 (North-West Pamir)

Historical and geographical overview and characteristics of the area

In 1928, participants of the Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences, topographer I.G. Dorofeev, first crossed the Academy of Sciences range from east to west and discovered a large glacier flowing into the Vanch valley. The glacier was named after the Geographical Society. The length of the glacier was determined to be 18 km. The glacier is located in the upper reaches of the Vanch river valley. In the area of the Kasal-ayak pass, it seems to merge with the Fedchenko glacier. However, the main branches of the RGO glacier originate from:

• the southern slopes of Garmo peak, one of the largest centers of glaciation in the north-western Pamir;
• the south-western slopes of Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya peak. To the south, the RGO glacier receives a large tributary — the Krasnoarmeets glacier. A detailed study of the RGO glacier was conducted in 1948 by a comprehensive geographical expedition of Moscow University. The total length of the glacier from the slopes of Garmo and Komakademiya was determined to be 21 km. The width is about 1 km. The RGO glacier is dominated by two high peaks:
• Garmo peak;
• Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya peak.

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii via the Southwest Face, carried out as part of the USSR Championship in the high-altitude and technical class Map-scheme of the ascent area SOUTHWEST FACE AFTER SNOWFALL. PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE AREA OF PEAK 6040 m. The organizational and tactical plan for the ascent was finalized after reconnaissance and visual observation of the route. The plan was as follows: Day one: Approach from the base camp to the second assault camp. Day two: Approach from the second assault camp under the wall, setting up the third assault camp, processing the lower part of the wall, and observing the regime of avalanches and rockfall.

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak Kom. Academii (6439 m) via the SW wall, category 6B (second ascent) July 26 – August 4, 1979 Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR:

• Cherepov V.A. — leader
• Gaas A.V. — coach
• Gromko V.N.
• Egorov V.M.
• Zhak V.V.
• Maleev V.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Darvaz Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii, 6432 m, via the SW wall
4. Complexity category: 6B, third ascent
5. Route characteristics: average steepness — 65° total height difference — 2092 m route length — 2399 m and sections in m

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak — Komakademii (South-Main, 6439 m) via the southwest wall, traverse — L. Matyushin's route, 72.
4. Complexity category — 6.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1690 m. distance to South summit — 1960 m. distance to Main summit — 2500 m. distance with 5–6 complexity category — 1000 m.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship 1971. Category I ascent details: 2. Region of ascent: 3. Route of ascent: high-altitude and technical. Central Pamir. eastern wall of Peak Kommunizm with further traverse of the massif. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference 1750 m, average slope 65°–70°, length of difficult sections 1500 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 188; ice — 38; bolt 6. Number of climbing hours: 74.5 h.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Category — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL

2. Ascent Area

CENTRAL PAMIR 3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Their Heights to peak "KOMAK DEMII" 6439 m via CENTRAL WEST WALL 4. Characteristics of the Ascent: height difference — 2150 m VERTICAL, 2640 m ROPE LENGTH, average steepness — 73°, length of complex section 820 m.