Untitled

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.

2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.

3. Peak — Komakademii (South-Main, 6439 m) via the southwest wall, traverse — L. Matyushin's route, 72.

4. Complexity category — 6.

5. Route characteristics:

   height difference — 1690 m. distance to South summit — 1960 m. distance to Main summit — 2500 m. distance with 5–6 complexity category — 1000 m. average steepness — 60° (4670–6360), including 6 complexity category 90° (4870–4910); 70° (5370–5400); 75° (5660–5700).

6. Pitons hammered:

   rock	bolt	nuts	ice
   167	0	197	15
   25	0	33	0

7. Team's working hours — 61, days — 7.

8. Nights: 1–3 on a snow platform, 4–5 on a rock-ice ledge, 6 — on a snow platform.

9. Team leader: Vitaly M. Guselnikov, Candidate for Master of Sports

   Team members:

   • Vyacheslav A. Sidorenko, Candidate for Master of Sports
   • Ivan A. Plotnikov, Candidate for Master of Sports
   • Valentin A. Tenenev, Master of Sports
   • Mikhail V. Pakhomkin, Candidate for Master of Sports

10. Team coach: Vladimir I. Shakleev, Candidate for Master of Sports

11. Route start: July 30, 1987.

    summit — August 5, 1987. return — August 6, 1987.

12. Organization: Altai Kraysportkomitet.

Photo #1

General view of Komakademii (S-Main), southwest wall.

• 1st route by A. Bitny, 71 — East wall, 5B complexity category.
• 2nd route by L. Matyushin, 72 — Southwest wall, 6B complexity category.
• 3rd route by V. Nekrasov, 72 — Southwest wall, 6B complexity category.
• 4th route by I. Bandurovsky, 72 — Northwest ridge, 5A complexity category.
• 5th route by V. Duradin, 75 — Southwest wall, 5B complexity category.

Photo from RGO glacier 3500 m, July 28, 1987, 12:00.

T-43 lens, distance 4 km.

Shooting point #1.

Tactical actions of the team

The route to peak Komakademii was completed within the framework of the RSFSR Alpine Championship in the high-altitude category.

The tactical plan for the ascent was developed taking into account changes in climbing conditions. It included a primary and backup schedule for the ascent, actions in case of sudden deterioration of weather conditions, options for descending from various sections of the route, and a plan for interaction with observers and a rescue team.

The team's exit from the base camp and approach to the route followed the developed plan. The next day, the ascent was postponed due to heavy snowfall, wind, and lack of visibility. The start of work on the route, the location of nights 1–2, adhered to the backup plan (second day — waiting).

Daily ascent report

July 30, 1987, 1st day (12 hours of work). 7:00 — approached the start of the route from the bivouac on the RGO glacier. Weather after snowfall was clear, frosty. The final choice was made to ascend via a path to the right of the main route, considered safer though more complex. This path went through the walls of the central part of the lower rock bastion. The choice proved correct, although the path was more challenging and longer.

Work began with autonomous rope teams on a snow-ice couloir, then in the upper steep section and on rock terrain — using fixed ropes. Belaying was done with ice axes, rock, and ice pitons.

After the first 4.5–5 ropes, the most complex section of the lower part of the route began. Climbing was very difficult, complicated by fresh snow on icy rocks. The first team used a double rope (10 mm + UIIA) with "krooconogi" (hook shoes). Belaying was with pitons.

After 4 ropes of complex climbing — exit to an inclined, snow-covered ledge, turning into a sharp ridge that abuts a rock wall. Preparation of a bivouac site and organization of the night's stay. End of work on the route — 19:00. First to work, alternating, were Tenenev–Plotnikov. Everyone wore crampons.

July 31, 1987, 2nd day (waiting). Due to weather conditions: snowfall, lack of visibility, strong wind — the team did not work on the route.

August 1, 1987, 3rd day (10 hours of work). Exit from the night's stay — 8:00. Morning weather was cloudy, with light snow. Visibility was sufficient for work on the route.

Movement was mostly on fixed ropes. Belaying was with pitons and using the terrain. First to work this day were Plotnikov–Sidorenko.

At the end of the ridge, before the snow "knife" — a complex rock wall covered in ice. Passage was on "krookonogi" with the use of ITO.

Before the snow "knife," the ridge flattened into a shoulder — very convenient and safe for a night's stay. Start of preparing a bivouac site — 18:00. On the rock wall before the "knife," a hanging control cairn was left.

August 2, 1987, 4th day (12 hours of work). 6:00 — exit to pass the snow "knife," which is a snow-ice chute. Movement was along the left edge of the chute (1 rope), then to the right until reaching rocks. First to work were Tenenev–Shakleev.

Others followed on fixed ropes with a pull rope and ice axes for belaying. The length of the "knife" was about 4.5 ropes. Continuous snowfall complicated progress on sufficiently complex rocks. After 3 ropes of inclined walls — approach to an internal corner. Climbing was very complex with the use of ITO. First on a double rope (10 mm + UIIA) were Tenenev–Shakleev, others on fixed ropes with top belay. Through complex snow-covered rocks and a chimney — exit to an inclined snow-covered ledge. Organization of a night's stay using a "kerchief" to enlarge the site — 18:00.

August 3, 1987, 5th day (waiting, 6 hours of preparation). Continuous snow and wind did not allow work on the route in the morning. During the night, two team members dug out the tents.

At 11:00, the team of Tenenev–Sidorenko went out to prepare the route. Four complex ropes were processed. At 17:00, the team descended to their night's stay.

August 4, 1987, 6th day (11 hours of work). 8:00 — exit from the night's stay. Passage of 4 processed ropes on fixed ropes. Snow continued to fall, visibility in breaks — up to 160 m. Further — on ice-covered rocks, covered with snow. Movement on fixed ropes. Belaying with pitons. Ahead worked Shakleev–Tenenev. After 3 ropes, the wall flattened and turned into a vaguely defined ridge with rock ledges. Belaying with pitons and using the terrain. Organization of a bivouac in a safe place — 19:00.

August 5, 1987, 7th day (10 hours of work). 8:00 — exit from the night's stay. Weather cleared, cloud cover above 6.5 km.

On snow-covered rocks and a snow-ice slope — movement in autonomous teams using the first team's pitons. Ahead were Pakhomkin–Sidorenko.

After 3 ropes — exit to the pre-summit snow dome. Reached the South summit — 11:00.

From the summit — along a sharp ridge (in the middle section — a 20-meter rappel) to a broad snow-covered saddle between the summits. Lunch — prepared tea, snack.

From the saddle, on rock outcrops and a snow ridge — exit to a pre-summit rock wall. Movement in autonomous teams, alternating. Used pitons from the first team. Ahead were Shakleev–Pakhomkin.

After the wall, on a scree slope — exit to the Main summit of Komakademii (6439 m) — 18:00.

Descent from the summit was via destroyed rocks to the NW ridge (5A complexity category route). Night's stay at around 6000 m.

August 6, 1987. Descent along the NW ridge to RGO pass and further to RGO glacier. Down the glacier to the "Zelyonaya Polyana" observers' camp — 22:00.

Communication with observers, rescue team, and base camp was via "Lastochka" type radios. On descent from the summit, a group from "Zelyonaya Polyana" relayed radio communication and met the team under RGO pass. On the wall, radio communication was possible (with direct visibility) with both observers and the base camp.

Route description by sections

Section R0–R2. Through a snow-ice couloir — exit to snow-covered rocks, partially covered in ice. Then — passage through a rock wall. Exit to an internal corner. Work by rope teams on the first team's pitons.

Section R2–R5. On snow-covered, ice-covered rocks — entrance to an internal corner, turning into a chimney. Very difficult climbing with the use of ITO. Then on walls — difficult climbing — exit to a ledge. Preparation of a bivouac site. Night's stay under the wall on a safe snow ridge. First to work were Tenenev–Plotnikov, others on fixed ropes with top belay. Everyone worked in crampons.

Section R5–R9. On a heavily snow-covered rock ridge with walls, worked autonomously on the first team's pitons. At the end of the day — passage of a complex rock wall. Climbing was very difficult. Used ITO. Night's stay on a snow ridge. First to work were Plotnikov–Sidorenko.

Section R9–R10. Ahead — a "snow knife," representing a snow-ice chute, through which snow and ice continuously fell during the day. Movement was along the chute's left edge (about 1 rope), then to the right of it. First to work were Shakleev–Tenenev with the organization of fixed ropes. Belaying on ice axes. Passage only in the morning hours!

Section R10–R14. After the "knife" — exit to difficult rocks, complicated by an abundance of ice and snow. Climbing was very difficult — with the use of ITO. First, alternating, worked Tenenev–Shakleev on a double rope (10 mm + UIIA). Others on fixed ropes with top belay. Passed a pronounced chimney, then after a wall — organized a night's stay on an inclined ledge. This section is one of the key ones on the route.

Section R14–R17. On complex snow-covered rocks — exit to a ridge, then to a ledge. Organization of a night's stay. First to work, alternating, were Shakleev–Tenenev, others on fixed ropes with top belay. On short, simple sections, worked autonomously on the first team's pitons.

Section R17–R19. On rocks and a snow-ice slope — exit to the summit dome. Ahead worked Pakhomkin–Sidorenko. Movement on the first team's pitons. Exit on the dome to the South summit, then after descent along a sharp snow-covered ridge — exit to a saddle and ascent to the Main summit. Movement was alternating, belaying with pitons. On a snow ridge — towards RGO pass — night's stay. Descent to the camp.

ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS, SCALE 1:4000

Technical photography of the route (Photo #2)

Date: July 28, 1987. Time of shooting: 12:00. Lens: T-43. Focal length: 4/40. Distance to the object: 4 km. Shooting point: #4. Height of shooting: 3500 m.

Photo #3. Section R0–R5. Lower part of the route.

July 29, 1987, 19:00.

• Lens: T-43
• Focal length: 4/40
• RGO glacier — 4600 m
• Distance: 500 m
• Shooting point #2