36

Report

on the traverse of the Kommunisticheskoy Akademii 6175–OGPU peaks, accomplished by the team from the Novosibirsk City Committee for FIS in 1975.

Main sections of the traverse of the Komaakademii–5900–OGPU peaks

Southern wall of Kommunisticheskoy Akademii peak

3. Tactical Plan of the Ascent

Organization of the Ascent

As usual, preparation for the gathering began in the fall of the previous year. The gathering's composition was formed from the alpine sections of the DSO "Zenit" and "Burevestnik". Given the specifics of traverse ascents, considerable attention was paid to training:

• long ski runs
• cross-country running

To better acclimate to high-altitude conditions, all team members participated in the traditional city alpine competition from April 25 to May 13.

Immediately before the gathering, from July 17 to August 5, team members underwent a cycle of training sessions and completed training ascents in the area of the "Dugoba" season. Such preparatory work allowed team members and the gathering as a whole to be in excellent physical condition by the start of the ascent.

Based on the analysis of the route, the greatest difficulties were anticipated when passing the southern wall of Komakademii peak, peaks 6175, 5900, and OGPU. An intermediate camp and resupply could have eased the passage of the wall; however, organizing a resupply on Komakademii peak was associated with significant challenges: it would have required 7–10 days to ascend via the 5A category route. On other sections of the route, resupplies were either impractical (under OGPU) or associated with even greater difficulties.

Therefore, it was decided to proceed without resupplies, leaving only a one-day supply of food and fuel for the return journey under Komakademii peak.

On August 9, a team of four, led by the deputy team captain S. Kurgin, consisting of A. Bogomolov, V. Garshin, and G. Ryzhov, departed from the base camp to:

• scout the path along the RGO glacier,
• familiarize themselves with the condition of the southern wall,
• observe rockfall patterns,
• identify suitable bivouac locations.

The reconnaissance results and recommendations from A. Bitny, D. Kheysin, and G. Ovcharov formed the basis of the tactical ascent plan.

It was noted that the highest intensity of rockfalls occurs between 11:00 and 14:00, so the tactical plan included passing certain sections before 11:00.

It was understood that the plan could be adjusted after working on the ridge directly under the wall.

Given the complexity and duration of the planned traverse, it was decided to proceed as an eight-person team, despite the challenges of organizing a bivouac on the southern wall.

The locations for bivouacs on the route after Komakademii peak were unclear, but photographs suggested the presence of suitable sites.

The plan took into account that water would need to be extracted from ice and snow throughout the route.

It was planned to pass all sections of the route without prior processing and only in the case of an early bivouac (presence of a suitable site) was processing to be carried out.

There were practically no deviations from the planned route.

Table of Main Route Characteristics

Route of ascent: Traverse of Komakademii – 6175 – OGPU peaks with ascent to Komakademii peak via the southern wall

Elevation gain of the route: 4815 m, including by sections:

1. RGO glacier – southern summit of Komakademii peak: 2070 m.
2. Saddle – northern summit of Komakademii peak: 310 m.
3. Saddle – 6175 peak: 785 m.
4. Saddle – 5900 peak: 770 m.
5. Saddle – OGPU peak: 880 m.

Including the most challenging sections: 1460 m.

Steepness of the route by sections: 1 – 67°, 2 – 45°, 3 – 63°, 4 – 43°, 5 – 55°.