Passport

Class of traverses
Turkestan Range, Achat gorge
Achatskaya wall (peaks 4700–4750–4810–Sabakh)
Assumed 6B, first ascent
Route characteristics: A. Initial ascent route to peak 4700: Elevation gain — 950 m Length — 1445 m Length of sections with V–VI difficulty — 830 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 74° Steepness of sections with V–VI difficulty — 82° B. Traverse: Length — 6055 m Length of sections with V–VI difficulty — 2840 m Steepness of sections with V–VI difficulty — 75°
Number of climbing hours — 143 hours and days — 12
Overnights: 1 — sitting, 1 — semi-reclining, 8 — lying down
Leader: Petrov Nikolai Evgenievich — MS Participants: Bashkirov Vladimir Leonidovich — MS Belyaev Igor Borisovich — CMS Egorov Dmitry Anatolievich — CMS Koroteev Vladimir Konstantinovich — IMS Mikhailov Sergey Vladimirovich — MS Stetsenko Vladimir Dmitrievich — CMS Yanochkin Vladimir Ivanovich — MS
Coach: Bashkirov Vladimir Leonidovich — MS
Entry to the route: July 23, 1990 Summit Sabakh: August 3, 1990 Return: August 4, 1990
Organization: Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Moscow City Executive Committee

Route Diagram

M1:2000

12 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	4	–	4	5	26	50°
–	5	12	6	5	90	70°
2	2	4	5	4	45	90°
–	7	2	4	5	45	75°
–	8	6	–	6	20	90°
–	–	–	–	4	25	30°

11 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
3	7	3	4	5	45	90°
2	6	24	2	6	45	80°
–	6	4	–	5	40	75°

11 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
2	15	28	–	5	90 m	–45°
–	–	–	–	3–4	15x40

P 4700

13 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	7	3	–	4	70	60°
–	–	10	31	13
–	1	4	3	4	40	45°
–	4	1	–	5	20	50°
–	4	1	–	5	20	60°
–	5	2	–	6	15	80°
–	4	2	–	5	15	60°

12 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
5	6	2	–	5	45	45°
–	22	43	24
–	3		3	–	5	20
4	5	3	2	6	15	90°
2	4	2	–	5	45	70°
–	3	2	–	5	30	40°
–	8	7	–	5	15	50°
–	–	–	–	5	20	70°
–	–	–	–	6	30	85°

Pitons	Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
	–	–	3	–		rappel	80
	–	–	2	–		rappel	120
	–	–	2	–		rappel	60
	–	–	2	–	4	sport	40
	–	–	3	–		traverse	40
	–	–	2	–	4		40
Ledge	–	–	–	–		rappel	40
	–	–	–	–		walking	40
Ledge	–	–	–	–		sport	80
	–	–	–	–	3		40
	–	–	3	–		rappel	40

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	5	8	–	5	45	70°
–	3	1	–	4	10	45°
–	7	4	–	5	45	75°

Ledge

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	–	–	–		rappel	45 80°
–	3	2	–	4	20	60°
–	30	6	–	6	2x45	80°

12.5 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	20	15	–	6	2x45	70°
–	3	1	–	4
–	6	7	–	4	50	40°

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	9	6	–	5	50	75°
–	4	1	–	4	40	50°
–	3	4	2	4	40	60°
–	20	10	–	5	2x45	65°
–	17	15	–	5	2x45	30–70°
–	9	4	–	5	45	80°

Ledge

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	3	7	3	5	10	70°
–	2	6	1	5	45	60°
–	4	1	–	4	45	60°
–	6	3	–	3	45	–
–	–	–	–	3	45	–

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	–	3	–		rappel	3х40
–	8	2	–	5	40	60°
–	–	1	–	3	walking	60

Ledge p. 4750

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	–	–	–		rappel	40

12 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	5	2	–	3	40	30°
–	5	7	–	4	90	40°

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	5	2	–	6	15	80°
–	3	4	2	4	60	45°
–	5	3	–	4	40	15°

12 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	8	38	120	5	15	65°
–	1	1	–	3	25	30°
–	1	2	–	3	40	40°
–	1	1	–	3	25	20°
–	4	3	1	3	55	40°
–	7	5	–	5	40	60°
–	3	1	–	5	20	30°
–	5	3	–	5	25	70°
–	4	2	–	5	20	60°
–	6	3	–	5	30	70°
–	1	1	–	5	15	30°

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	9	4	–	5	40	70°
–	2	4	3	4	40	30°
–	4	–	–	5	40	40°
–	4	3	–	4	40	55°
–	6	4	–	5	45	65°
–	5	4	–	4	45	20°
–	–	–	–	5	10	90°
–	3	1	–	5	45	60°
–	1	–	–	5	15	80°
–	2	5	3	4	5	30°
–	3	3	–	5	40	80°
–	6	4	–	6	10	90°
–	5	4	–	5	35	60°
–	–	–	–	5	40	30°

Profile of the route to p. 4700. Taken on 07.29.1990 from p. 4750. H=4500. Camera «Smena». MAP-SCHEME T. 2.

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	6	3	–	6	45	80°
–	10	3	–	5	45	80°
–	9	7	–	4	80	45°
–	3	1	–	5	10	80°
–	10	6	–	3	5х40	25°
–	13	7	–	6	45	85°
–	2	2	–	3	15	45°
–	4	2	–	4	10	60°
–	2	6	–	5	20	45°
–	9	5	–	5	45	75°
–	8	5	–	5	40	70°
–	–	–	–		3х40	10°

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	9	0	–	3	150	30°
–	6	5	–	5	40	50°

8 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	2	–	–	3	40	40°
–	4	9	3	5	40	60°
–	7	3	–	5	30	50°
–	4	3	–	6	10	80°
–	4	7	3	5	40	70°
–	3	0	–	5	30	50°
–	21	4	2	6	10	70°
–	2	6	6	6	40	80°
–	10	4	–	5	40	70°

13 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	2	84	41	5	45	80°

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	5	–	–	4	40	45°
–	4	–	–	4	40	45°
–	6	1	–	3–5	40	60°
–	6	–	–	3	120	40°
–	5	1	–	3	120	40°
–	2	4	–	4	50	40°
–	2	2	–	3	60	25°
–	8	2	–	5	40	65°
–	6	6	–	5	40	75°

Total pitons:

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM
6	108	460	314
4	15	7	–

*Pitons used for rappelling are not included in the total count. Total climbing hours — 143.

P. Sabakh

13 hours

Belay	ICE	ROCK	CAM	Diff. level	Section length	Steepness
–	1	2	–	3	40	30°
–	3	2	–	4	40	50°
–	12	2	–	4	250	30°
–	3	–	–	5	20	60°

Section R16–R17. 07.26.

Start of sections R47–R48. Below are sections R44–R46. 07.29.

Sections R106–R108. 08.01.

Sections R116–R118. 08.03.

Ridge p. Sabakh, sections R135–R137. 08.03.

Related to

Passport

Route Diagram

Attached files

Sources

Comments