Peak Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall)

4050 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to v. Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall) via the fault of the eastern wall. "2B", (climbing)

Participants:

Temerev I.M.
Temereva E.O.

Tomsk – 2014

Ascent Passport

Kyrgyzstan, Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge (Kara-Su river valley), 5.4.3.
Peak — Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall), fault of the eastern wall (left to right).
Proposed 2B category of difficulty, first ascent.
Route type: rock climbing.
Height difference of the route — 390 m.

Total route length — 615 m. Length of sections:
- 1st category of difficulty — 310 m.
- 2nd category of difficulty — 100 m.
- 3rd category of difficulty — 30 m.
Average steepness — 37 °
Pitons used on the route:
- pitons — 0 pcs.;
- protection — 13 pcs.
Team's moving hours: 3 h, 1 day.
Leader: Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich — Master of Sports

Participant: Temereva Elena Olegovna — 2nd sports category
Exit from base camp in Kara-Su: 12:00, July 29, 2014.

Start of work on the route: 14:00, July 29, 2014.

Reach the summit: 17:00, July 29, 2014.
Organization: Tomsk Alpinism Federation.
Responsible for the report Temerev I.M.

E-mail: ivantem@ngs.ru, skype: ivantem1979, phone: 9528823151, 9138480559.

Conventional symbols:

Photo of the general view of the peak. View from the base camp in the Karavshin gorge.

View from the Kara-Su valley.

View from the peak 1000-летия Крещения Руси (Kyrkchilty).

Threads of routes on the wall. Peak Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall), 3800 m

1 - via the fault of the E wall, 2B, Temerev, 2014
2 - via the shelf of the E wall, 4B, Solonnikov, 1987
3 - via the center of the E wall, 5B, Yanushevich, 2005 ("Meresyeva")
4 - via the left part of the E wall, 5A, Zhigalov, 2014 ("American")

Photo of the route profile.

Photopanorama of the area.

Scheme of the ascent route in UIAA symbols.

Description of the route by sections

Move upstream along the Kara-Su river, almost to the stream between Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall) and Serebryanaya стена (Silver Wall). Before reaching the stream, start ascending through the archa thickets and ram's brows towards the fault of the eastern wall. Upon entering the large steep inner corner, rope up and move with belay.

R1 150 m, 2, 30 ° Ram's brows
R2 120 m, 3, 45 ° (5b–5c free climbing) Exit to an inclined shelf crossing Zheltaya стена (Yellow Wall).
R3 100 m, 1, 10 ° Inclined shelf.
R4 180 m, 4, 65 ° (5b–6а free climbing) Macro corner (crack).
R5 15 m, 5, 90 ° (6а+ free climbing) Wall with a slanting crack.
R6 100 m, 3–4, 50–70 ° (5с free climbing) Shelves-slabs.
R7 50 m, 3, 50 ° Ridge.