Trident. From the North
Climbing description for Category III route
I. Approaches
The approach to the summit follows the valley next to the Cheryrekh Uchel'ye gorge. Crossing the Maikhura River by fording. There is no trail, and the route goes straight up the valley, through large scree.
There is no water visible as it runs under the scree. At the end of the valley, there is a rock wall with gushing water fountains that disappear under the scree 100–150 m below. At this spot, there is a large green meadow suitable for camping.
The approach from the road takes 2 hours, with a significant ascent. From the overnight camp, one can pass the wall with fountains (the rocks are easy, with shelves) and reach the glacier cirque.
II. Ascent
The ascent to the ridge is via the left (in the direction of travel) side of a steep ice couloir. The rocks are monolithic, steep (up to 50°), but straightforward. The movement is simultaneous but extremely cautious. The length of this section is 300 m. The path further follows the ridge with a slope of up to 70°. The rocks are moderately difficult; the movement is alternating, with protection using protrusions and pitons (3 pitons), leading to the summit № I (5 × 60 m). Descent from the summit to the saddle between peaks I and II, ascent to peak № II, and descent to the saddle before peak № III are over moderately difficult rocks, with alternating movement and protection using protrusions. The descent to the glacier is via a steep (up to 60°) rock slab - a groove, using sport climbing techniques (3 × 60 m) with rope retrieval (3 pitons), leading to a wide rock slab with shelves (40°), from which we descend to the end of the rocks. The descent to the ice involves crossing a bergschrund with a rappel of 1 × 20 m. Further descent on ice involves chopping steps for another 20–30 m, navigating around ice crevices, and then continuing on a gentle glacier towards the beginning of the ascent. The entire climb from camp to camp takes 9–10 hours. The first ascent was made in June 1970 by a group consisting of: Tkachov V.K., CMS, Lavrukhin V.I., CMS.
I TREZUBETS from v. Malysh