Pamir-Alay
Route Description: центру СВ стены
Ascent of Peak 5013 (Gorniak peak) via the center of the NNE wall in the Pamir-Alay, category 6B, climbed by a team from St. Petersburg in 1998.
Ascent Passport
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge
- Peak 5013 (p. Gornyak), via the center of the North-North-East wall, variant: Sidorov, 1992
- Proposed category of difficulty — 6B
- Height difference: 1150 m, wall — 1100 m, of which 5–6 cat. grade — 850 m: average steepness — 75°, including the wall part — 78°
- Route length: 1300 m, wall part — 1200 m.
- Pitons driven: rock 168/31 chocks 203/38
Route Description: центру СВ стены
Description of the first ascent via the center of the NE wall of Peak Tornyak (5013) with a category 6B complexity, made by a team from St. Petersburg in 1992.
- Climb category — technical
- Climb area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
- Goryak Peak (5013 m) — via the Center of the NE wall. KTMG category 5.4.
- Proposed complexity category — 6B, First ascent
- Height difference — 1123 m, including: wall — 1060 m. Length — 1257 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 1167 m, including: 6 category complexity — 887 m (3955–3965, 3975–4070, 4115–4205, 4220–4430, 4460–4500, 4590–4650, 4675–4930, 4970–5005) Average steepness of the route — 75°, including: wall — 78°
- Pitons used:
Route Description: правому канту С стены
The description of the first ascent of Gornyak Peak (5013 m) via the right edge of the North face, a 6A category route, made by the team of the Professional and Applied Alpinist Club "Gornyak" in 1990.
- Climbing category — technical
- Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
- Peak Gornjak (5013) — via the right edge of the Northern wall. KTM.5.4.1.
- Proposed difficulty category — 6A, combined, first ascent
- Height difference — 1273 m, including: wall — 453 m. Distance — 1710 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 630 m, including: 6th category — 230 m (4160–4200, 4660–4700, 4775–4990). Average steepness — 60° (3740–5013), including: wall — 73° (4560–5013).
- Pitons driven: Rock pitons 92/11 Nuts 87/11
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
### Route Description Along the Northwest Wall of the Mountain Detailed analysis of sections and technical difficulty.
Photo — 4. Date taken — 1986. Lens — Industar-52. Distance — 4 km. Shooting height — 4000 m. Shooting point number — 4.
1 — Kritsuk route on C 3 wall, cat. 6 1988.
2 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" 3" wall, cat. 6 1988.
3 — Voronov route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988.
4 — Kopeyka route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988.
5 — Pogorelov route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986.
6 — Moroz route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986.
7 — Gorbenko route on C NW wall, cat. 6 1986.
8 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" NW wall, cat. 6 1988.
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of the route "along the center of the North-West wall of the peak Asan" 6B category of complexity, climbed by a team of climbers in 1991.
Passport
- Category — rock climbing.
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river).
- Peak Asan, centre of the North-West wall (Rusyayev's route).
- 6B category of difficulty.
- Height difference — 730 m. Length — 1095 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 950 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 72°.
- Pitons hammered: | Rock Pitons | Bolt Pitons | Nuts | Holes for sky-hooks | | :---------- | :--------- | :----- | :------------------ |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of a Category 6B route to the summit of Asan (4280 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay.
I. Rock Climbing Category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley 3. Peak Asan, 4280 m, via the center of the NW wall (Rusiaev's route) 5th ascent 4. Route difficulty: 6B 5. Height difference - 820 m, route length - 1035 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 935 m, including 790 m of 6th category. Average steepness of the route - 73°. Average steepness of the wall section - 69°. 6. Pitons driven: rock pitons 80/32, chocks 86/18, bolt pitons 5/5 + 40 previously used 7. Team's climbing hours - 30.0 Days on the route - 2 8. Overnight stays - I - lying on a ledge for 5 people
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Ascent via the center of the northwest wall of Peak Asan, category 6B difficulty, climbed by a team of Leningrad climbers in 1991.
- Type of ascent — rock climbing
- Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
- Peak Asan (4230 m) — centre of NW wall. KTMGV 5.4.
- Complexity category — 6B
- Height difference — 780 m of which:
- wall — 730 m
- length — 1120 m
- length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1020 m
- of which 6 cat. diff. — 845 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°, of which wall — 73°
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of a 6th category difficulty route through the Northwest wall of Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.
Passport
- Class — rock
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Su gorge
- Peak Asan (4230 m), along the center of NW wall
- 6B cat. difficulty
- Height difference 830 m, length 1045 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. difficulty 880 m, of which 6B cat. difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness of the route 78° (3400–4230), of which 6B cat. difficulty 85° (3540–3800, 3800–4060)
- Driven pitons: | rock | bolt | chocks | | :---: | :----: | :----: | | 95/31 | 25/25 | 161/55 |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
### Second Ascent of Peak Asan (4204 m) Wall in Pamir-Alay Details the tactics and technical maneuvers employed by the team during the second ascent via a Category III route (6B complexity).
PASSPORT
- Rock climbing
- Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley
- Peak Asan, 4204 m
- Second ascent, 6B category difficulty
- Elevation gain — 865 m, length — 1075 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 975 m, including 6B category difficulty — 830 m. Average slope of the route (3340–4204) — 77°. Average slope of the wall section of the route (3340–4120) — 80°.
- Pitons hammered in | Rock | Chocks | Bolt | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |
Route Description: центру СЗ стены
Description of the ascent via a category 6 route on the Northwest wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Pamir-Alai mountains, achieved by a team from the Nevsky district alpine club of Leningrad in 1988.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent type — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — via the "mirror" of the NW wall. Category IIIV 5.4. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference — 830 m of which: wall — 780 m Total length — 1120 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1020 m of which: 6th category — 845 m (3400–3680, 3720–3940, 3990–4110, 4140–4180)