Pamir-Alay

Mountain range111,102.58 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent of Peak 5013 (Gorniak peak) via the center of the NNE wall in the Pamir-Alay, category 6B, climbed by a team from St. Petersburg in 1998.

Ascent Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin gorge
  3. Peak 5013 (p. Gornyak), via the center of the North-North-East wall, variant: Sidorov, 1992
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6B
  5. Height difference: 1150 m, wall — 1100 m, of which 5–6 cat. grade — 850 m: average steepness — 75°, including the wall part — 78°
  6. Route length: 1300 m, wall part — 1200 m.
  7. Pitons driven: rock 168/31 chocks 203/38
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Description of the first ascent via the center of the NE wall of Peak Tornyak (5013) with a category 6B complexity, made by a team from St. Petersburg in 1992.

  1. Climb category — technical
  2. Climb area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Goryak Peak (5013 m) — via the Center of the NE wall. KTMG category 5.4.
  4. Proposed complexity category — 6B, First ascent
  5. Height difference — 1123 m, including: wall — 1060 m. Length — 1257 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 1167 m, including: 6 category complexity — 887 m (3955–3965, 3975–4070, 4115–4205, 4220–4430, 4460–4500, 4590–4650, 4675–4930, 4970–5005) Average steepness of the route — 75°, including: wall — 78°
  6. Pitons used:
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The description of the first ascent of Gornyak Peak (5013 m) via the right edge of the North face, a 6A category route, made by the team of the Professional and Applied Alpinist Club "Gornyak" in 1990.

  1. Climbing category — technical
  2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak Gornjak (5013) — via the right edge of the Northern wall. KTM.5.4.1.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6A, combined, first ascent
  5. Height difference — 1273 m, including: wall — 453 m. Distance — 1710 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 630 m, including: 6th category — 230 m (4160–4200, 4660–4700, 4775–4990). Average steepness — 60° (3740–5013), including: wall — 73° (4560–5013).
  6. Pitons driven: Rock pitons 92/11 Nuts 87/11
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### Route Description Along the Northwest Wall of the Mountain Detailed analysis of sections and technical difficulty.

Photo — 4. Date taken — 1986. Lens — Industar-52. Distance — 4 km. Shooting height — 4000 m. Shooting point number — 4. 1 — Kritsuk route on C 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 2 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" 3" wall, cat. 6 1988. 3 — Voronov route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 4 — Kopeyka route on 3 wall, cat. 6 1988. 5 — Pogorelov route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 6 — Moroz route on NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 7 — Gorbenko route on C NW wall, cat. 6 1986. 8 — Rusyaev route on "mirror" NW wall, cat. 6 1988.

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Description of the route "along the center of the North-West wall of the peak Asan" 6B category of complexity, climbed by a team of climbers in 1991.

Passport

  1. Category — rock climbing.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge (upper reaches of the Karavshin river).
  3. Peak Asan, centre of the North-West wall (Rusyayev's route).
  4. 6B category of difficulty.
  5. Height difference — 730 m. Length — 1095 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 950 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 72°.
  6. Pitons hammered: | Rock Pitons | Bolt Pitons | Nuts | Holes for sky-hooks | | :---------- | :--------- | :----- | :------------------ |
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Description of a Category 6B route to the summit of Asan (4280 m) in the Turkestan Range of the Pamir-Alay.

I. Rock Climbing Category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley 3. Peak Asan, 4280 m, via the center of the NW wall (Rusiaev's route) 5th ascent 4. Route difficulty: 6B 5. Height difference - 820 m, route length - 1035 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 935 m, including 790 m of 6th category. Average steepness of the route - 73°. Average steepness of the wall section - 69°. 6. Pitons driven: rock pitons 80/32, chocks 86/18, bolt pitons 5/5 + 40 previously used 7. Team's climbing hours - 30.0 Days on the route - 2 8. Overnight stays - I - lying on a ledge for 5 people

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Ascent via the center of the northwest wall of Peak Asan, category 6B difficulty, climbed by a team of Leningrad climbers in 1991.

  1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
  2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
  3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — centre of NW wall. KTMGV 5.4.
  4. Complexity category — 6B
  5. Height difference — 780 m of which:
  • wall — 730 m
  • length — 1120 m
  • length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1020 m
  • of which 6 cat. diff. — 845 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°, of which wall — 73°
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Description of a 6th category difficulty route through the Northwest wall of Peak Asan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay.

Passport

  1. Class — rock
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Su gorge
  3. Peak Asan (4230 m), along the center of NW wall
  4. 6B cat. difficulty
  5. Height difference 830 m, length 1045 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. difficulty 880 m, of which 6B cat. difficulty — 450 m. Average steepness of the route 78° (3400–4230), of which 6B cat. difficulty 85° (3540–3800, 3800–4060)
  6. Driven pitons: | rock | bolt | chocks | | :---: | :----: | :----: | | 95/31 | 25/25 | 161/55 |
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### Second Ascent of Peak Asan (4204 m) Wall in Pamir-Alay Details the tactics and technical maneuvers employed by the team during the second ascent via a Category III route (6B complexity).

PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley
  3. Peak Asan, 4204 m
  4. Second ascent, 6B category difficulty
  5. Elevation gain — 865 m, length — 1075 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 975 m, including 6B category difficulty — 830 m. Average slope of the route (3340–4204) — 77°. Average slope of the wall section of the route (3340–4120) — 80°.
  6. Pitons hammered in | Rock | Chocks | Bolt | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |
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Description of the ascent via a category 6 route on the Northwest wall of Pik Asan (4230 m) in the Pamir-Alai mountains, achieved by a team from the Nevsky district alpine club of Leningrad in 1988.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent type — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — via the "mirror" of the NW wall. Category IIIV 5.4. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference — 830 m of which: wall — 780 m Total length — 1120 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1020 m of which: 6th category — 845 m (3400–3680, 3720–3940, 3990–4110, 4140–4180)

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