1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — centre of NW wall. KTMGV 5.4.
4. Complexity category — 6B
5. Height difference — 780 m of which:

• wall — 730 m
• length — 1120 m
• length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 1020 m
• of which 6 cat. diff. — 845 m. Average steepness of the route — 71°, of which wall — 73°

6. Pitons hammered: rock — 58/9, chocks — 92/7, bolted — 53/33
7. Climbing hours of the team — 31.4 days
8. Overnights: 1st — lying in a tent 2nd — sitting
9. Team of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports of the Leningrad Soviet Executive Committee
10. Leader — Aleksandr Nikolayevich Odintsov — MS Participants:

• Tengiz Aleksandrovich Verulashvili — MS
• Aleksey Vladimirovich Dorofeyev — MS
• Sergey Vadimovich Yefimov — MS
• Aleksey Yegorovich Klimin — CMS

11. Team coach — Honoured Master of Sports of the USSR Vyacheslav Ivanovich Glushko
12. Departure to the route — July 3, 1991 Reached the summit — July 6, 1991 Return — July 6, 1991

Photo — 1 Date taken — 25.06.91, 16:00 Lens — Volna-3M Distance — 2 km, Height of shot — 3700 m, Shot number — 1

• POGORELOV's route on NW wall 6A cat. diff. 1986
• MOROZ's route on NW wall 6A cat. diff. 1986
• GORBENKO's route on C NW wall 6A cat. diff. 1986
• RUSAYEV's route on C NW wall 6B cat. diff. 1988, team's route
• TIMOFEYEV's route on the right part of NW wall 6B cat. diff. 1988

Tactical Actions of the Team

Results of reconnaissance, study of reports and photographic materials formed the basis for drawing up a tactical plan.

The planned route was intended to be completed in 3 days (one day for processing and a reserve day). Prior to this, the route had only been climbed three times and was considered one of the strongest in the area.

The team consisted of:

• Odintsov A.N. — captain
• Ivanov V.A.
• Dorofeyev A.V.
• Yefimov S.V.
• Klimin A.Ye.
• Verulashvili T.A.

The team was composed of experienced Masters of Sports who had participated in USSR Championships. 1988 — 1st place in the technical class. 1989 — 2nd place in the high-altitude technical class, 3rd place in the rock and technical classes. 1990 — 1st place in the rock class. Due to illness, Ivanov V.A. did not join the route.

In reality, there were two overnights on site, and the reserve day was used due to complex meteorological conditions. The route was completed from July 3 to July 6, 1991, in 31 hours.

The ascent schedule was as follows: July 3, 1991 — began processing at 9:30, team of Dorofeyev — Klimin worked. The main task was to pass the smooth wall ("mirror") using skyhooks as ITO. Climbing was limited due to poor microrelief. At 15:30, having processed 5 ropes, the team descended to the assault camp. From 14:00 to 15:00, work was complicated by bad weather (snow grains). July 4, 1991 — started work at 7:00, with the team of Verulashvili — Yefimov leading. "Task of the day — to pass the mirror and exit through the cornice to the overnight position." One of the problematic sections of the route was the smooth wall, reaching a steepness of over 70°. At 16:00, the group reached the overnight position and began processing the overhanging corner before the pendulum. Work ended at 17:00. On the overnight, contrary to expectations, there was no drinking water, which forced an early end to work (17:00). July 5, 1991 — the group started work at 7:00. The team of Odintsov — Klimin led. Ahead was one of the most difficult sections of the route: after the overhanging corner, a giant 30-meter pendulum was to be executed, followed by a series of vertical chimneys to the upper overnight of the first ascenders. Work was greatly complicated by bad weather. From 11:30, rain with snow fell. From 12:00 to 15:00, the team waited out the bad weather. Rain with snow continued until 19:30. The rocks were icy, and ice began to form in the cracks. From 15:00 to 18:30, the team processed 3 ropes and spent the night 3 ropes from the ridge. The overnight was sitting and uncomfortable. July 6, 1991 — started work at 7:00. The group was to reach the summit and descend to the base camp that day. The team of Verulashvili — Yefimov led. The rocks were covered in ice, and the processed ropes were frozen into the ice. At 13:30, the team reached the summit. Bad weather started again and continued until the end of the day. At 22:00, the team descended to the base camp.

Safety measures during the route included:

1. High technical, physical, tactical, and moral-volitional preparation of team members.
2. A tactical plan drawn up with consideration of the area's specifics.
3. Material support and quality mountaineering equipment.
4. Ensuring all participants with double insurance, the first climber working on a double rope (UIAA+USSR).
5. Presence of a support group with a doctor below the route.
6. Availability of long-range radio communication between the base camp and the KSP Tad. SSR and the helicopter unit in Dushanbe.
7. No falls or injuries occurred during the ascent.

Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols

Total hammered: rock — 58/9, chocks — 92/7, bolted — 53/33. Peak Asan (4230 m). Reached the summit: 6.07.1991. Total distance covered: 1120 m in 31 climbing hours.

Photopanorama of the Area

Photo — 4. Date taken — 1991. Lens — Industar 52 Distance — 2 km, Height of shot — 3600 m, Shot number — 4. 1 — IGOLKIN's route on the left part of S wall, 1990 2 — KRITSUK's route on C S wall, 1988 3 — RUSAYEV's route on C S wall, 1988 4 — VORONOV's route on S wall, 1988 5 — KOPEYKA's route on S wall, 1988 6 — POGORELOV's route on NW wall, 1986

Photo — 16. Duo Verulashvili — Dorofeyev on section R17–R18.