The exit to the route is carried out from the overnight stay at 3300 — DMaiskie nochyovki on the moraine of the Manas glacier. On the right side of the glacier, we approach the NE wall of p. Bashkyn Manas. To the west of the wall, a saddle is visible.
Ascent to the saddle:
- Takes 1.5 hours.
- Must be done early in the morning with crampons.
From the saddle, the route goes along the snowy ridge to a gendarme 7–10 m high, which is passed directly, medium-difficulty rocks (careful belay). Further, the route goes along a rocky, destroyed ridge 35–40°, gendarmeries encountered on the way are bypassed on the right along the way via easy rocks.
40–45 minutes after the start of movement from the saddle — a gap 2 m wide (pitons belay). Then movement along the ridge, consisting of large-block stones, to the summit tower 20–25 m high. The entry to the summit is not difficult.
Descent is done via the ascent route. The route from the glacier to the summit takes 5–6 hours.