Western Sayan
Route Description: СВ стене
Description of the ascent via a Category III route on the Northeast Wall of Zvezdny Peak in Ergaki Range, Western Sayan, in May 2002.
Ascent Log
- Ascent classification: technical
- Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
- Peak, route: Zvezdny via the NE wall
- Difficulty category: 6A, winter ascent
- Height difference: 700 m, with 700 m being wall ascent
Total length:
- 5th difficulty category — 220 m
- 6th difficulty category — 150 m average route steepness — 67°
Route Description: СВ стене
Description of the first ascent of a 6B category route on the North-Eastern wall of the Zvezdny peak (2265 m) in the Ergaki ridge, Western Sayan.
Passport
- Rock climbing category.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, via the Northeast wall.
- Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 575 m, route length 665 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 605 m, average slope 79°.
- Pitons used: rock nuts bolts ice screws 103/54 214/114 27/17 7/0
- Climbing time 67 hours, total duration 9 days (including acclimatization).
Route Description: З стене
Report on the ascent of Pik Zvezdny via the Balezina route on the western wall, category 5B.
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Republic of Khakassia on August 8, 2024.
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Ivanov Timofey Pavlovich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, MS |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, MS |
| 1.4 | Organization | Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Republic of Khakassia |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object |
Route Description: З стене
Report on the ascent made by a team from the Krasnoyarsk mountaineering club to the peak Zvezdny via the Bolezin Route on the western wall, rated as category 5B.
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, Balezin's route, 5B category of complexity, by the team of the Krasnoyarsk Alpine Club on July 25, 2024.
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Fedosenko Alexey Sergeevich — CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Taskin Andrey Sergeevich — 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Gunko Vladimir Sergeevich |
| 1.4 | Organization | Krasnoyarsk Alpine Club |
Route Description: З стене
Report on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Zvezdny via the 3rd wall, category complexity 5B.
Siberian Federal District and Far Eastern Federal District Championship in Alpinism
Technical and Altitude Class, 2024
REPORT
on the ascent to the summit of Pik Zvezdny 2265 m via the 3rd wall, category 5B, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai on July 29, 2024 2024
I. ASCENT PASSPORT
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Timofeev V. M. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of participants | Balezine V. V. (MSMK), Savelyev V. A. (MS) |
Route Description: З стене
Climbing passport for Zvezdny Peak via the left part of the West face in the Western Sayan Mountains, category 6A complexity level, rock climbing route.
ASCENT REPORT
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak name: Zvezdny Peak, route name: via the left part of the West Face.
- Proposed category: 6A, variation.
- Route type: rock.
- Route height difference: 495 m (by altimeter).
Route length: 539 m.
Section length: 5th cat. diff.: 260 m, 6th cat. diff.: 239 m.
Average steepness:
- main part of the route: 83°
Route Description: З стене
First ascent of the western wall of Zvezdny peak (2265 m, Ergaki, Western Sayan) with a 6A difficulty grade, 590 m height difference, and 655 m length.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock
- Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
- Peak — Zvezdny 2265 m via the western wall, rock
- Proposed — 6A first ascent
- Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m. total length — 655 m. length of sections with 5th difficulty grade — 180 m. length of sections with 6th difficulty grade — 250 m.
Route Description: зеркалу центра Ю стены
Description of the 6A category route to Zvezdny Peak in the Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan, climbed via the southern wall in February 2001.
Climbing Passport
- Center of Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
- Zvezdny peak, via S wall center (via "Mirror")
- First ascent, 6A category of difficulty.
- The route is rocky.
- Elevation gain along the route according to altimeter — 350 m. Route length — 500 m. Length of sections:
- V category of difficulty — 50 m
- VI category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness:
- main part — 84°
Route Description: центру Ю стены
Description of the 5A category route to Zvezdny Peak (2265 m) in the Ergaki massif of the Western Sayan Mountains, first ascent in 1996.
PASSPORT
- Rock class.
- Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
- Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m via the South-West edge.
- Proposed — 5A cat. dif., first ascent.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 315 m, length 340 m, length of section 5–6 cat. dif. 210 m,
Route Description: камину Ю стены
Climbing passport for Zvezdny Peak via the south wall chimney, 5A category of complexity route, 320 m elevation gain, 450 m length.
Ascent Passport
- Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2001 classification table - 6.2
- Peak: Zvezdny 2265, via the chimney on the South face, 5A
- Route type: rock
- Route elevation gain: 320 (by altimeter)
Route length: 450 m.
Length of sections:
- V difficulty category – 120 m.
- VI difficulty category – 150 m. Average steepness: