Vostochny Sayan

Mountain range132,715.72 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
4
Route Description: С склону

Description of the ascent route to the summit Glavny Topograf Mazurov, 3089 m, via the northern slope, Category 1B complexity, a combined route 500 m long with an elevation gain of 280 m.

Ascent log for the summit of Glavny Topograf Mazurov, 3089 m, via the North slope.

  1. Eastern Sayan, Pogranichny ridge, Charm-Taiga spur, Topografov massif, section 6.1.4.
  2. Summit Glavny Topograf Mazurov, 3089 m, via the North slope.
  3. Proposed category 1B, non-category.
  4. Route type — combined.
  5. Elevation gain — 280 m, distance — 500 m, average slope — 30°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones 2 pcs.
  7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
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Route Description: Ю склону, траверс

Ascent route to the summit of Zhelaniy 3199 m via the southern slope with traverse, complexity category - 3a, rocky terrain.

Ascent record for p. 3177–Zhelaniy 3199 m via the South slope, traverse 3A cat. diff.

  1. Eastern Sayan, Kitoy Golets ridge, Ilchir gorge, section 6.1.3.
  2. P. 3177–Zhelaniy 3199 m via the South slope, traverse.
  3. Categorized as 3A cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. Route type — rocky.
  5. Height difference 100 m, length 482 m, average slope 20°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 12 pcs.
  7. Team's walking hours – 6 h.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Group:
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Route Description: Ю гребню

Ascent description to the summit of Ospin Golets 3215 m via the southern ridge of the Eastern Bastion, category 2B, first ascent in 2010.

Ascent record for v. Ospin Golets (Ospin-Ulan-Sar'dak) 3215 m, via the Southern ridge of the Eastern Bastion, category 2B.

  1. Eastern Sayan, Kitoyskie Goltsy ridge, Ilchir gorge, section 6.1.3.
  2. Ospin Golets peak 3215 m, via the Southern ridge.
  3. Category 2B, first ascent.
  4. The route is rocky.
  5. Height difference 315 m, length 560 m, average slope 40°.
  6. 7 pitons hammered: rock and wired 7 pcs.
  7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Group:
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Route Description: центр. кф. В ребра

Description of a new 4A category route to the summit of Zaboyshchik 3051 m in the Sayan Mountains via the Central Counterfort of the Eastern Ridge.

Ascent record for Zaboyshchik peak 3051 m via Central buttress of the Eastern edge, cat. 4A.

  1. East Sayan, Kitoi Goltsy ridge, Ilchir gorge, section 6.1.3.
  2. Zaboyshchik peak 3051 m, via Central buttress of the Eastern edge.
  3. Claimed category 4A, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock climbing.
  5. Height difference — 600 m, length — 1150 m, average steepness of the wall section — 60°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 30 pcs.
  7. Team's travel time — 10 hours.
  8. No overnight stays on the route.
  9. Group:
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Route Description: В стене Ю гребня

Report on the first ascent of a 5A category route on the Eastern face of the Southern ridge of Domashnaya peak (2352 m) in the Sayan Mountains.

Report

On the first ascent

To the summit: Domashnyaya (2352 m) Via the route: Eastern wall of the Southern ridge Complexity category: 5A cat. sl. (proposed) By the team of Irkutsk region: Klepikov A.A., Ivanovsky A.V., Kazantseva E.V. The ascent was made on February 5, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
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Route Description: З гребню

Report on the first ascent of the 2A category complexity route to the Gussar 2540 m peak in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.

Report

On the first ascent

Gusar Peak 2540 Zgr Route 2A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Kharimta valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A. A. Participants:

  • Drulis A. M.
  • Lipchenko A. V.
  • Oseyev D. N.
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Route Description: ЮВ гребню

Report on the first ascent of Domashnaya Peak (2350 m) via the South-Eastern ridge, category 1B, in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF BURYATIA

Report on the First Ascent

Peak Domashnyaya (2350 m). Via the South-Eastern Ridge. Route 1B cat. diff. (proposed). Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Zun-Khandagai valley 6.1.2. 2023

Climbing Passport

1. General Information
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Route Description: центру Ю стены З кф.

Report on the first ascent to the Nosorog peak via the 5A category route through the center of the south face.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE NOSOROG PEAK VIA THE CENTER OF THE SOUTH FACE ROUTE, 3rd Category of Difficulty, 5A (PRESUMABLY) BY THE "RYZHAYA" TEAM FOR THE PERIOD FROM OCTOBER 31, 2023, TO OCTOBER 31, 2023 Irkutsk 2023

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader, Date of BirthAnton Vladimirovich Ivanovski, 2nd sports rank, May 25, 1988
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants, Date of BirthEvgeniya Vasilievna Kazantseva, 2nd sports rank
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Route Description: кулуару Ю стены

Report on the first ascent to Geomorfologov Peak (2155 m) via a Category 3B winter route.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GEOMORFOLOGOV (2155) VIA THE SOUTHERN WALL COULOIR (THROUGH THE BIG FROZEN WATERFALL) CATEGORY 3B ROUTE IN WINTER CONDITIONS FROM 24.02.2023 TO 25.02.2023

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team LeaderParfen'tev E.P. II sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsBezgodova O.V. II sports rank
Kuklin O.Yu. II sports rank
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Route Description: Ю стена ЮЗ гребня

Report on the first ascent of the "Щель" route, category 4A, to the summit of Yanichar (2520 m) in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Eastern Sayan.

Report on the First Ascent

About the First Ascent

Yanichar Peak (2520 m) — South face of the Southwest ridge. The name of the route is “Щель” (Gap). The route is 4A category of difficulty (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Kharimta valley, 6.1.2. Team leader: Klepitov A.A. Participants:

  • Kuzmenko I.M.
  • Kolosov A.D.
  • Kazantseva E.V. The ascent was made on August 13, 2022.

I. Ascent Passport

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