Khrebet Sarydzhaz

Description of the ascent made by the CSKA MO RK team to Peak Khan-Tengri via the Myslovsky Route, rated as category 6B.

Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 of the classifier Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m), from the S. Inylchek glacier along the center and couloir of the Northern wall, Mylovsky's route Submitted — 6B cat. diff. The nature changed The route height difference — 2810 m Route length — 4316 m Length of sections: V cat. diff. — 81 m VI cat. diff. — 5 m Average steepness:

Description of the first ascent of the route of 5B category of complexity through the center of the Eastern wall of Khan-Tengri peak in Tian Shan, made by the team led by Nikolai Shustikov in 1987.

Passport Category of First Ascent Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Peak Khan-Tengri via the center of the East Face Proposed — 5B category of complexity, first ascent Height difference — 2000 m, length — 2950 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 2905 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 48° (5020–6700) including 6 category of complexity: 85° (5850–5900); 55° (6350–6400); 70° (6610–6650) Pitons driven:

Description of the first ascent via the right part of the East face of Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, 6B category of difficulty, climbed by the team in August 1988.

Passport High-altitude class Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge Khan Tengri peak, 6995 m, via the right part of the East face Proposed - 6B cat. sl. first ascent Elevation gain: 1865 m, route length - 2280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl. - 1270 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 64° (5220-6795), including 6 cat. sl. sections: 80° (5550-5570), 85° (5730-5755), 85° (5855-5865), 90° (6135-6155), 80° (6580-6590), 85° (6720-6760). Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nut | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-----------------: | :--: |

Description of the first ascent via the center of the East Face of Khan-Tengri peak in Tian Shan with a detailed description of the team's technical actions and route characteristics.

Passport High-altitude class Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier Khan-Tengri peak, via the center of the East Face Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent Elevation gain — 2000 m, route length — 2420 m Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1340 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 67° (5000–6700 m). Including: 80° (80 m) 85° (140 m) 90° (80 m)

First ascent of the 108 wall of Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, category 6B, with details of tactics and technical actions of the team.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude Ascent area: Tsentralny Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier Peak, route: Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, via Southeast wall Estimated category of difficulty — 6B, 2nd first ascent Height difference: 2500 m total route length — 3140 m wall section length — 2500 m of which 5th category of difficulty — 2100 m

First ascent via the South Wall of Khan Tengri peak (Tian Shan) cat. 5B, 2700 m height difference, 4750 m length.

PASSPORT Altitude-technical class Tian-Shan Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m), via the South face Proposed - 5B category of complexity, first ascent Height difference – 2700 m, length – 4750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity – 2680 m. Average steepness of the most difficult sections is 50° (4700 m–6700 m). Pitons hammered: ice – 138, rock – 57, bolted – 2. Team's travel time: 88 hours and days – 10

### Ascent of Khan Tengri via the North Face, Category 6B, led by V. Dodia in 1990 The team, led by V. Dodia, successfully climbed the North Face of Khan Tengri, a formidable route categorized as 6B, in 1990.

High-altitude class. Central Tien Shan, North Inylchek Glacier. Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m, via the center of the North Face. Proposed category: 6B, variation. Elevation gain — 2700 m, distance — 3550 m Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1430 m, including 185 m of 6th category. Average steepness — 55–58°. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :---: | :--: | :--: | :---: | | 151/3 | - | 211/3 | 12 |

First ascent of the north wall of Khan Tengri peak via the left part of the route, 6th cat. difficulty level, in 1993.

Passport CATEGORY OF CLIMBING ROUTE. TIAN-SHAN, TENGRI-TAG RANGE. Peak KHAN-TENGRI VIA LEFT PART OF NORTH FACE. PROPOSED 6B cat. dif., FIRST ASCENT. ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE 2700 m, ROUTE LENGTH 3920 m. LENGTH OF 5–6 cat. dif. SECTIONS — 1405 m. LENGTH OF 6 cat. dif. SECTIONS — 375 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS OF THE WALL PART OF THE ROUTE — 61°. PITS SET: | ROCK PITS | ICE SCREWS | PLACED PROTECTION |

Report on the first ascent of the right part of the north face of Khan Tengri peak in 1988 by a team from the 12th Sports Club of the Army.

1988 USSR Alpine Championship High-altitude Climbing Category Report on the Ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) via the Right Part of the North Face (First Ascent) by Team 12, SAVO Army Sports Club www.alpfederation.ru All inquiries regarding the report should be directed to: City: Alma-Ata Postal Code: 480051 Address: Army Sports Club, 12 Position: Club Chief

First double ascent in Alpine style through the center of Khan-Tengri North Face. Description of the route, equipment, and an interview with the climbers.

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class Report On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent. Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. Route type – combined