Khrebet Sarydzhaz

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) by the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Chapayev peak, grade 5B.

Passport Class — high-altitude. Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Peak Khan Tengri, 7010 m, from S. Inylchek Glacier along the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Peak Chapayev (along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder). Complexity category — 5B. Height difference — 2500 m, length — 9000 m, length of sections with 5 and 6 complexity categories — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used. Team's travel hours — 15.5 hours and days — 3. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all lying down. Leader: Bolotov Alexey Vasilyevich — Candidate Master of Sports.

Ascent description for Khan Tengri Peak via the Southwest Ridge, category 5A, a combined route.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude technical Region — Tian-Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, route № 7.9.8 Peak — Khan-Tengri, via the Southwest ridge Category of difficulty — 5A Route type — combined Route elevation gain — 2800 m. Route length — 5290 m. Length of sections with category difficulty — 1040 m. Average slope:

Ascent description to the summit of Khan-Tengri via the South-West slope, category 5B difficulty level in 1990.

I. Altitude class Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge Khan Tengri peak via the Southwest slope Route difficulty category — 5B Elevation gain: 2695 m, length 3830 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 340 m. Average steepness of the route — 42°. Pitons driven: rock 9+9, chocks 16, ice screws 8+4 use of previously driven pitons Team's travel time: 13.5 hours, days — 2

Ascent via the route with profile description and illustration.

Profile to the right

Ascent of Khan-Tengri 6995m via NE edge of Chapayev Peak's shoulder, 5A cat., combined route, height difference 2695m.

Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, l. North Inychek 7, 9, 13 Khan-Tengri 6995 m NE ridge of Chapayev peak shoulder Solomatov route. Category B 5A category of difficulty The nature of the route is combined Height difference 2695 m Route length 5110 m

Report on the ascent of the team of climbers from the Sports Committee of the Uzbek SSR to Khan-Tengri peak in 1973 via the ridge, with the ascent to the ridge along the counterfort of the eastern wall.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1973 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP HIGH-ALTITUDE ASCENT CLASS Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the SSE ridge with access to the ridge via the counterfort of the eastern wall by the combined team of climbers from the Sports Committee of the Uzbek SSR, Tashkent 1973 Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is the highest point of the Tengri-Tag ridge, one of the highest in Tian Shan. The Tengri-Tag ridge, located in the upper reaches of the Inylchek River, a left tributary of the Sarydzhas River (Tarim basin), starts in the east from the Meridionalny ridge in the area of Shaater peak, and in the west it ends at the confluence of the largest Tian Shan glaciers: the Southern (59.4 km²) and Northern (35 km) Inylcheks, near Bronenosets peak. The ridge is about 40 km long and about 8 km wide. The ridge has an asymmetrical structure (its watershed is strongly shifted to the south). The snow line on the southern slopes fluctuates at around 4500 m. In the eastern part of the ridge, 10 km from its junction with the Meridionalny ridge, Khan-Tengri peak rises, a strikingly beautiful, perfect, and architecturally light summit, long considered the highest point of Tian Shan. The first information about the peak was published by an Italian expedition in 1904–1905. The Munich researcher Merczbacher made a significant contribution to the study of the area. However, it was not until 1930 that the expedition led by Pogrebetsky M.T. reached the foot of the peak, and on September 11, 1931, Pogrebetsky's group conquered the seemingly impregnable summit via the route now known as the "classic" route.

Ascent of Peak Chapayeva (6371 m) via North-Eastern Ridge, first ascent, category of difficulty 5B.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — high-altitude and technical. Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Chapayev, 6371.0 m, via the Southeast ridge. Estimated difficulty category — 5B. Route characteristics: height difference 2200 m. Section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 810 m. 6th difficulty category — 65 m. Average steepness of the rocky part of the route — 60°, snowy-icy part — 42°.

Ascent of the Kazakh Climbers Club to Khan-Tengri 6995m via the North Face, Kuzmin's Route, 6th cat. of difficulty in 1971.

Climbing Report for the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship Climbing category — High-altitude. Climbing area — North Inylchek Glacier, Central Tien Shan. Climbing route — North slope of Khan-Tengri 6995 m, Kuzmin's route, 6B category of difficulty. Climbing characteristics: Elevation gain — 3000 m Average slope approximately 50° Length of most challenging sections — 1300 m Pitons used: Rock pitons — 82

The ascent of the Mosoblsporkomitet team to Khan-Tengri peak via the center of the North face, category 6 difficulty, 1988.

ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) by the team of Mosoblsporkomitet. I. High-altitude class Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the center of the North face. Myslovsky's Route. 6th cat. of difficulty. Second ascent. Height difference 2350 m. Length 3930 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. of difficulty: 1640 m. Average steepness of the main part (4650-6950 m) is 55°. Including 6 cat. of difficulty: 70° (5060-5100 m), 90° (5200-5220 m), 85° (5550-5600 m). Pitons used: Rock pitons: 242/2 Chocks: 41/0

Description of the first ascent of the route of 5B category of complexity through the center of the Eastern wall of Khan-Tengri peak in Tian Shan, made by the team led by Nikolai Shustikov in 1987.

Passport Category of First Ascent Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Peak Khan-Tengri via the center of the East Face Proposed — 5B category of complexity, first ascent Height difference — 2000 m, length — 2950 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 2905 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 48° (5020–6700) including 6 category of complexity: 85° (5850–5900); 55° (6350–6400); 70° (6610–6650) Pitons driven: