I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak — traverse with ascent via the left glacial couloir of the Western wall of Glavny Talgara — South Talgar

• height — 4973 m
• route type — ice-snow

4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1000 m
• length of sections 4–5 difficulty category — 580 m
• average steepness of the route — 50°

Report on the ascent of Pik Yuzhny Talgar via the Southwest Wall, 5A category of difficulty, by the team of the Central Sports Club of the Army of Kazakhstan

Team coach: Uryubko D.V. Team captain: Dedeshko B.E.

Almaty, 2010

Climbing Passport

1. Zailiyskiy Alatau, Sredniy Talgar
2. Pik Yuzhny Talgar — 4900 m
3. Ice couloir through the center of the Southwest Wall
4. Category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route type — ice

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar gorge 3. Talgar, via the Western wall from the Kroshka glacier 4. 5 km/h 5. Elevation difference: 180 m, length — 1400 m Length of 5 km/h sections. 6. Pitons driven rock belay anchors ice 66⁄8 0⁄0 85⁄8 3⁄0 7. Team's walking hours: 24 h; days 2.

1. Climbing category: combined.
2. Climbing area: N. Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Talgar base camp.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Yuzhny Talgar, 5020 m, SW wall, center.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections 200 m, average steepness 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating Intermediate Technical Support (I.T.O.). | rock | 53 | IV | |------------|----|----| | ice | – | – | | bolt | – | – |

Ascent Log

1. Sports organization: Republican Climbers' Club of the Kazakh SSR.
2. Ascent classification: Technically challenging.
3. Assault leader: Akinenkov M.V. — Candidate Master of Sports.
4. Participants: — Belovol E.V. — 1st category, Denisov V.G. — 1st category, Popenko Yu.S. — 1st category.
5. Peak name, height: "Yuzhny Talgar", 5017 m.
6. Geographical area: Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan.
7. Route: South-West wall.
8. Route height: wall section height difference — 520 m, including most challenging sections — 450 m.
9. Difficulty category assessment — 5B.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: Southwest wall of Peak Yuzhny Talgar — 5000 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain 1000 m
   • average steepness 65°
   • length of complex sections 650 m.
5. Number of pitons hammered in — 68.

Talgar (SE)

Brief geographical location and sports characteristics of the object. The unnamed peak with a height of 4600 m, or now known as peak "Daugava" as named by the Latvian national team after their ascent, is located in the North Tien Shan, in a spur branching off to the northwest from the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. In this spur, situated south of the Talgar massif and separating the Kroshka glacier and North Talgar, there are two peaks:

• peak "Trud"
• peak "Daugava" The northwest slope of peak Daugava drops to the north as a steep wall. Bounded on both sides by large icefalls, it presents three separate walls and several difficult-to-overcome sections in the middle part of the route. The northwest slopes are hardly ever exposed to sunlight and are battered by strong winds. As a result, there is a lot of ice on the route, and in the upper part, a lot of loose snow covering both ice and rocks. The height of the wall is 950–1050 m.

Characteristics of the area

The North Tien Shan is characterized by an abundance of snow and ice, resulting in many snow, ice, and combined routes. The action of glaciers is very pronounced. There are many moraines that block the path and hinder approaches. As a result of intense melting, the water level in rivers changes significantly. This factor must also be considered when planning ascents. The best time of year for sports ascents is considered to be July–August, although exceptions can occur. The group was based in the Talgar mountaineering camp, located in the Middle Talgar gorge, 43 km from Almaty. From the transshipment base to the camp is a 9 km pack trail. Furthermore, most approaches from the camp to the ascent objects take one day's journey. The approach to peak Daugava took 6 hours.

Reconnaissance work

Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau Range

TALGAR (Main Peak), 4973 m, via the west face of the North Peak from the North Talgar Glacier (Pelevin's route) 5B difficulty category. Team of the "Malachite" sports club. Team captain - Vladimir Ivanovich YUSHKEVICH, 1st sports category. Team members:

• German Petrovich AVERYANOV, Candidate Master of Sports
• Alexey Vladimirovich ARTAMONOV, 1st sports category
• Boris Vladimirovich DAUTER, Master of Sports
• Sergey Borisovich LYAKHOV, 1st sports category

Tokhsan-Attyn (4040 m)

Traverse from east to west — category 2A

The Tokhsan-Attyn peak is located in the upper reaches of a lateral gorge with a small river of the same name, which is a left tributary of the Kaskelen River. Moving along the left bank of the Kaskelen River, turn into the Tokhsan-Attyn gorge and go up*. After 40–50 minutes, the trapezoidal Tokhsan-Attyn peak becomes clearly visible. Its northern slopes are covered with snowfields, interspersed with outcrops of rocks. At the foot of the peak are accumulations of small ridges of ancient moraines. The ascent route should be started from a large stone in the center of the cirque. Crossing the moraine piles in the direction of the northeast ridge, continue moving along the right source of the Tokhsan-Attyn stream to the foot of the ridge. The ascent to the ridge begins along a small and medium talus. In its upper part, the rocks are heavily destroyed. The gendarmes encountered are bypassed on the left side. About an hour later, there is an approach to a snow-ice couloir (its length is 70–80 m), framed by heavily destroyed rocks (be careful!). It is better to move further along the snow. At the end of the season, there may be flow ice in the couloir. It ends with a small cornice, having hacked through which, you get to the summit ridge. From the ridge, an unforgettable panorama of the Kungey Alatau ridge opens, separated from the Trans-Ili Alatau by the wide valley of the Chonkemin River. The majestic Choktal peak, the highest point of the Kungey Alatau ridge, is clearly visible. The summit ridge is rocky, consisting of massive gendarmes and accumulations of rock fragments. The rocks are easy and moderately difficult. The first gendarme made of slabs is overcome head-on; the second, having the appearance of a huge cube, is passed along a clearly defined crevice.

World Climbing Championship High-Altitude Technical Class National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan

Peak Trud, 4635 m via the west face, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent)

General photo of the summit

Taken from Kroshka glacier on May 26 at 19:00

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge:

Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar

2. Summit name, route name: