Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Ascent Route 4. Ascent Characteristics 5. Pitons Driven: 6. Number of Movement Hours 7. Number of Overnight Stays and Their Characteristics 8. Team Name 9. Full Name of Team Leader, Participants, and Their Qualification

Ascent of Pik Blyukhera via the Northeast Face

I. CLIMBING CLASSIFICATION: Technical 2. CLIMBING REGION: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too 3. SUMMIT: Pik Blyukhera (4720 m) via NE face 4. CLAIMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5A 4A 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: elevation gain — 600 m average steepness — 70° section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — 30 m, 2nd — 170 m, 3rd — 160 m, 4th — 250 m, 5th — 120 m, 6th — 10 m. 6. PITS SET:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area, range — Tian Shan, Terskey Alatau 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ashutor, 4020 m, from Ashutor Pass 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B combined 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 350 m
• length of sections, difficulty category: 1 — 200 m 2 — 200 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area: Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Albatros Zap. (4700), via the spur on the N wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 180 m, average steepness — 60°, number of rock pitons hammered — 35, number of placements — 14, number of ice screws — 18
6. Number of travel hours: 15
7. One overnight stay — on the moraine of Djigit glacier
8. Team composition:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak — Albatros Western, 4740 m, via the counterfort of the northern wall, from Brigantina glacier
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B, combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 581 m, length — 840 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 68° (from 4212 m to 4706 m). Length of sections:
   • Grade III — 420 m
   • Grade IV — 182 m

PASSPORT

I. Class: technical 27. Tian-Shan 3. Peak: Zapadny Albatros via the north wall. Category 5A difficulty, presumably the 3rd ascent. 4. Elevation gain: 550 m Route length: 740 m, average slope 60° 5. Pitons hammered: * rock - 23 * ice - 47

Ascent Certificate (First Ascent) I. Category - technically difficult ascents. 2. Region - Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol Valley, Brigantina Glacier area. 3. Route Name: To the peak Zapadny Albattros via the North face. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B cat. diff. 46 pitches. 528, p.1. From the bergschrund to the summit. 5. Elevation gain 400 m. Length - 700 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. section - 370 m. 6. On the route: ice screws - 24 rock pitons - 8 placed chocks - 6 used slings - 11

Team Championship of CS DSO "TRUD" 1969 in Alpinism Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH-WESTERN COUNTERFORCE OF PIK ALBATROS — ROUTE 5A cat. diff. (Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, height 4740 m) Team of MGS DSO "Trud" July 18-20, 1969 Moscow, 1969

I. GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE REGION AND SPORTS CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT.

Pik Albatros (eastern peak — 4800 m, western — 4740 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge and closes the Kок-bor gorge (55 km south of Przhevalsk). The peak is located in the upper reaches of the right tributary of the Kокbor River, which is a right tributary of the Karakol River.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category
2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: p. Zap. Albatros via SW ridge through p. Epyura
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1010 m length of complex section average steepness
5. Pitons used: rock 4, ice, bolted
6. Total hours on the move: 8 h

Climbing Passport

1. Class: technical ascent.
2. Area: central Tien Shan, Arashan valley.
3. Route: ascent to the eastern peak of Ak-Su wall (4650 m) via the southern counterfort from Stepkin Pass.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45°, total length of difficult sections — 150 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock — 13, ice — 1.
6. Time spent on the route: 13 hours.
7. Characteristics of bivouacs: no bivouacs on the route.