Ascent Passport
I. Climbing category
- technical
- Climbing area
- Kyrgyz Ala-Too
- Ascent route indicating the summit and its height
- Peak "Svobodnaya Koreya" via the left counterfort of the northern wall, 6B cat. diff. (first ascent) 4740 m
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Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1082 m average steepness — 78° length of 6B cat. diff. — 362 m 5B — 177 m
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Number of pitons driven rock pitons — 187 pcs. ice pitons — 42 pcs. protection gear — 52 pcs. bolts — 7 pcs.
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Total climbing hours — 78 h
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Number of bivouacs and their characteristics
- Six — sitting bivouacs
- Team name
- Team of instructors from "Ala-Archa" alpine camp
- Last name, first name, patronymic of the leader, team members, and their qualification:
- Shvab Alexander Evgenievich — leader, Candidate Master of Sports
- Popov Valery Nikolaevich — member, Master of Sports
- Zhila Andrey Yuvenalievich — member, Candidate Master of Sports
- Galygo Vladimir Nikolaevich — member, Candidate Master of Sports
- Savin Vladimir Viktorovich — member, Candidate Master of Sports
- Zuev Vladimir Leonidovich — member, Candidate Master of Sports
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Team coach — Sukhanov Viktor Ivanovich, Honored Coach of the Kyrgyz SSR
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Date of departure on the route — July 9, 1982. Date of return — July 16, 1982.
Route taken by the group, bivouac locations
previously climbed routes.
Route profile
Table of main characteristics of the ascent route
| Date and climbing hours | Sections | Average steepness | Length in m | Terrain character | Cat. diff. | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolt pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 09.07.1982 | R0–R1 | 55° | 150 | Snow | 3 | Snow | satisfactory | — | — | — |
| R1–R2 | 85° | 3,5 | Ice | 5 | Ice | satisfactory | — | 2 | — | |
| 18 h | R2–R3 | 60–70° | 200 | Ice | 5 | Ice | satisfactory | — | 15 | — |
| R3–R4 | 70–80° | 100 | Wall | 5 | icy | satisfactory | 18 | — | — | |
| R4–R5 | 80° | 45 | Slab | 6 | live holds | satisfactory | 12 | 3 | — | |
| 10.07.1982 | R5–R6 | 90–100° | 10 | Corner | 6 | Ice | unsatisfactory | 10 | — | 1 |
| R6–R7 | 80° | 35 | Glacier forehead | 6 | Ice | unsatisfactory | 7 | 2 | — | |
| 9 h | R7–R8 | 90° | 10 | Wall, crevice | 6 | Ice | unsatisfactory | 5 | 2 | — |
| R8–R9 | 80° | 10 | Glacier forehead | 5 | icy | unsatisfactory | 3 | 1 | — | |
| 11.07.1982 | R9–R10 | 85° | 30 | Ice gully | 5 | icy | satisfactory | 6 | 2 | — |
| R10–R11 | 90° | 12 | Overhanging wall | 6 | monolith | satisfactory | 11 | — | — | |
| 12 h | R11–R12 | 90° | 25 | Inside corner | 5 | icy | satisfactory | 7 | — | — |
| 12.07.1982 | R12–R13 | 90–100° | 35 | Inside corner, overhang | 5 | monolith, ice | unsatisfactory | 23 | — | — |
| 6 h |
| Date and climbing hours | Sections | Average steepness | Length in m | Terrain character | Cat. diff. | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock pitons | Ice pitons | Bolt pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 13.07.1982 | R13–R14 | 75° | 25 | Ice gully | 5 | Ice, monolithic | unsatisfactory | 6 | — | — |
| R14–R15 | 80° | 60 | Ridge with overhanging sections | 5 | Broken | unsatisfactory | 22 | 3 | — | |
| 10 h | R15–R16 | 60° | 35 | Snow-ice slope | 5 | Ice | unsatisfactory | 3 | 2 | — |
| 14.07.1982 | R16–R17 | 80° | 12 | Wall | 5 | monolith | satisfactory | 3 | — | — |
| R17–R18 | 60° | 30 | Snow-ice slope | 5 | Ice | satisfactory | — | 3 | — | |
| 10 h | R18–R19 | 80° | 60 | Wall | 4 | monolith | satisfactory | 12 | — | — |
| R19–R20 | 90° | 40 | Corner, chimney | 6 | monolith, ice | satisfactory | 10 | — | 1 | |
| 15.07.1982 | R20–R21 | 80° | 50 | Ice gully | 6 | monolith, ice | satisfactory | 7 | 2 | — |
| R21–R22 | 90° | 40 | Inside corner, overhang | 6 | live slabs | satisfactory | 13 | — | 1 | |
| 13 h | R22–R23 | 75° | 40 | Ice-filled inside corner | 5 | live slabs | satisfactory | 9 | — | 1 |
| R23–R24 | 75° | 25 | Rock wall | 5 | live slabs | satisfactory | 5 | — | — | |
| R24–R25 | 30–50° | 250 | Main ridge | 4 | Snow, ice, broken | satisfactory | — | — | — | |
| 16.07.1982 | ||||||||||
| Return to "Ala-Archa" alpine camp from "Top-Karagay" gorge. |
Explanations for the table
Section R0–R1 Snow slope with 60° steepness, snow is deep and loose. R1–R2 Bergschrund, steep ice wall, overcome by free climbing on front crampons. R2–R3 Steep ice slope 200 m long, traversed on front crampons with ice axe usage. R3–R4 Rock wall, rocks are broken, traversed by free climbing with piton protection. R4–R5 Steep slabs with "live" holds, iced, traversed by free climbing, partly with artificial aids. R5–R6 Vertical inside corner, traversed with artificial aids. R6–R7 Rocks like "sheep foreheads" iced, overcome by free climbing in crampons. R7–R8 Rock wall with a crevice, overcome with artificial aids, using hexes #2 and #3. R8–R9 Rocks like "sheep foreheads" iced, with few cracks for piton placement. Overcome by free climbing. R9–R10 Ice gully with rock outcrops at the top. R10–R11 Turns into an overhanging rock wall. Free climbing, with ladder usage at the top. R11–R12 Upper inside corner, iced, turning into a chimney. Traversed with artificial aids, using protection gear like hexes #3 and #4 and stoppers #2 and #3. Transition to bivouac, traversed by the first climber with a 15–20 m pendulum. Other team members follow on horizontal fixed ropes. R12–R13 Steep inside corner, turning into a chimney, partly overhanging, iced. Entire piton arsenal is used, overcome by free climbing with artificial aids. R13–R14 Vertical ice gully with rock outcrops, traversed in crampons, using universal pitons for protection.
R14–R15 Vertical inside corner, partly overhanging, iced, traversed with artificial aids.
R15–R16 Bypassing overhang on a snow-ice slope.
R16–R17 Rock wall overcome by free climbing with piton protection.
R17–R18 Snow-ice slope traversed on front crampons.
R18–R19 Rock wall with "live" holds, overcome by free climbing with piton protection.
R19–R20 Inside corner turning into a chimney with smooth walls, traversed with artificial aids.
R20–R21 Steep ice gully, overcome on front crampons with ice axe usage.
R21–R22 Inside corner turning into an overhanging wall, traversed with artificial aids.
R22–R23 Steep snow-filled inside corner, iced, traversed by free climbing.
R23–R24 Rock wall overcome by free climbing.
R24–R25 Rock and ice ridge, traversed with alternating protection.