Report

On the ascent of Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via the south ridge (2A category of difficulty approximately)

Team leader: Akimov V.V. Participants:

• Zobenko A.A.
• Braun A.A.
• Lekomtsev M.A. Bishkek 2012

Climbing Passport.

1. Climbing area: Tian-Shan.
2. Kyrgyz range.
3. Pik Ratseka (3900 m) via S ridge.
4. Category of difficulty: 2A (approximately)
5. Route characteristics:

route length — 430 m. Route elevation gain — 210 m. Average slope — 43 degrees

6. Pitons used:

rock shackles bolt anchors ice screws

• 8
• 0
• 5
• 0

7. Time taken: 5 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 0
9. Names of leader and participants, their qualifications:

leader — Akimov Vitaly — Candidate Master of Sports, participants:

• Zobenko Alexander — 2nd sports category
• Braun Artem — 3rd sports category
• Lekomtsev Mikhail — 3rd sports category

10. Team coach: Grekov Dmitry Mikhailovich — Master of Sports of the USSR.
11. Departure for the route — November 8, 2012

Summit — November 8, 2012 Return from the route — November 8, 2012

12. Organized by: Federation of Alpinism of Bishkek.

Route profile. R5 — Summit.

R0 300­m. 40°

Route in UIAA symbols

Summit.

• R4 25­m. II
• R3 15­m. IV
• R2 80­m. III

R0 300­m. I

Equipment list

1. Main rope — 2 × 50­m.
2. Harness — 4 pcs.
3. Helmet — 4 pcs.
4. Carabiners — 20 pcs.
5. Rock hammers — 2 pcs.
6. Rock pitons — 10 pcs.
7. Protection equipment — 1 set.
8. Extension slings — 6 pcs.
9. Crampons — 4 pairs.
10. Jumar ascenders — 3 pcs.
11. Descenders — 4 pcs.
12. Kenwood radio — 1 pc.
13. Camera — 1 pc.

7:00. Departure from Ratseka station. 8:30. TeKe-Tor station.

R0–R1. Couloir 300 m. Large block scree, snow. Simultaneous movement. Reach the ridge — 10:00.

R1–R2. Rock wall 10 m. Alternating belay. Two pitons used. Zobenko-Akimov rope team.

R2–R3. Inclined rock slab. Alternating movement. Piton belay.

R3–R4. Rock wall 15 m. Alternating movement. Piton belay.

R4–R5. Rocky ridge 25 m. Simultaneous movement. Belay on outcrops.

Summit — 12:00.

Technical photo of the climbing object.