has cornices hanging to the north. In the upper part, the ridge has two ascents. The first one is easy to pass. The second one is a climb to the dome of the summit — an ice slope, (left side of the ridge by the route) 50 m long, 50° steep. On the slope, you need to:

• move left,
• cut through the cornice on the southern ridge,
• reach a simple slope, which after 15–20 m leads to the summit.

The summit is a snowy dome with rock outcrops on the southwest side, where a tur is built.

Descent from the summit follows the ascent route down to the lowering in the ridge (a hollow) with convenient platforms. Here, an overnight stay is organized.

Further from the overnight stay, you need to:

• descend via a chimney;

• traverse to the ridge;

• then descend "sportively" from the ridge:

  • via rocks — 40 m;
  • via a snowy ridge — about 80 m;
  • then down to the left via a snowy-icy slope for 180–200 m.

The slope flattens out and leads to the glacier. We descend via the known route to oz. Irotsenko in the base camp.

Overall, the route taken is combined, quite long, and mainly ridge-related. This route, with its amount of work, can be compared to the traverse of the peaks of Semenov-Tyan-Shansky Skryabin 4"E" cat. sl.

The route is quite interesting, requires good preparation of the climbers.

The group considers the passed route to be category 4B.

Information about the group.

The first ascent of p. Nastukhova via the eastern ridge from l. yuzh. Protsenko was made by a group with the following composition:

• Romanov A.V. — MS — leader

2. Kholopova L.I. — 2nd sp. razryad — participant
3. Mukhamedvaliev I.G. — 3rd sp. razryad — « — »
4. Aksenov V.A. — 3rd sp. razryad — « — »

Necessary equipment:

1. Pamirka tent — 1 pc.
2. Backpacks
3. Hammers
4. Ice axes
5. Rock climbing hooks
6. Ice climbing hooks — 6 pcs.
7. Main rope — 2×40 m.
8. Auxiliary rope — 1×40 m.
9. Primus stove
10. Sleeping bags — 4 pcs. (Note that some items are listed twice with the same numbering, likely a result of the original text formatting)