Crimean Mountains
Route Description: Павлова
The "Pavlova" route is rated 5A, runs along a monolithic wall, and includes rock climbing with belays using old pitons and anchors.
Route №16 «Pavlova»
5A VI A1 275 m (6 pitches). Average passage time — 4–6 hours. The main part of the route goes through the center of the monolithic wall. On the way, climbers will encounter many old rock pitons and anchors, which do not inspire confidence. The start coincides with routes №13–15. In addition, movement can begin along the first pitch of route №17. R0–R1: 30 m. Along the ledge, go left to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Belay station on the tree. Transition:
- 10 m — I
Route Description: Павлова
Ascent via the southwestern wall of Peak Komosomola in the Pamirs, category 6A, passage by a team of experienced climbers.
10
Route Description: Бершова
Description of the "Chelebi-6" climbing route in Crimea, including information on routes of varying difficulty and a detailed description of the Bershov route of 5B category of difficulty.
Chelebi — 6
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Chelebi, Crimea. Descriptions of alpinist routes
The Chelebi massif is located in the western part of the Main Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, between the "Baidarskie vorota" pass and the Ilyas-Kaya mountain. Relative height is 200 m, absolute height is 600 m above sea level. Despite the modest height, 5 routes of 5th and 6th difficulty grade are laid through the central part of the wall. The routes are very popular (for example, the Bershov route, there are several ascends per day). Descent from the wall is possible both left and right. The left path (if looking towards the sea) is shorter:
- Walk along the yayla along the cliff towards Baidarskie vorota for about 600–700 m.
- Near the descending couloir there is a group of trees.
- Down the steep scree, then right along the wall.
Route Description: Куриная лапка
Description of the "Kurinaia lapochka" route, category 4B difficulty, with a focus on altered sections and recommendations for equipment and passage technique.
4Б cat. dif., "Kurinnaya Lapochka" (Chicken Leg)
The exit to the cirque above the first belt of rocks is described in route Ch10. Walk along the terrace to the left, under a narrow, clearly visible crack in the slab, stretching from right to left. The crack is located 40–50 m to the left of a large cornice. R1 is set near a tree under the crack. Climb up the crack to the left and exit onto a small ledge (20 m, 80°, V, small and medium-sized gear). Then:
- Under the cornice, climb up an inner corner with a convenient crack for 15 m to a ledge.
- Traverse left along the ledge to a tree (VI) — R2. From the tree:
- Climb 4–5 m up and to the right along the wall.
- Swing right into an inner corner behind a ridge. Climb complex rocks in the inner corner for 15 m upwards (85°, VA1, small and medium-sized gear), then pass a small overhang and exit into another inner corner.
Route Description: По Большому камину
"Chimney in a chimney", 4A on Chelebi: a detailed description of an interesting route with varied climbing and chimneys, recommendations on equipment and ascent techniques.
"Chimney in the Chimney", 4A (Chelebi)
Route thread
A very interesting and beautiful route, abundant with diverse climbing, especially memorable for its chimneys. Judging by its condition, it is rarely climbed and requires clearing of ledges from stones.
Recommended for ascent by well-prepared groups. It is better to have experience in chimney climbing, although the route is well-suited for getting acquainted with this truly interesting and enjoyable type of climbing.
The terrain on the route does not lend itself to frequent use of protection, but there are places where pitons can be used.
In principle, for the passage of the route, it will be sufficient to have:
- several medium-sized friends,
- a set of stoppers,
- seven to ten quickdraws.
Route Description: На массив Башня
Description of the "Tower" route on the Chelebi rock massif, category 4A difficulty, with details on the approach and passage of the route.
Description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 4A cat. difficulty
Written by Katterrin on April 23, 2010.
Before the May holidays, I finally gathered my thoughts to write a description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 3B cat. difficulty. Maybe it will be useful to someone.
Route "Bashnya" on Chelebi
4₁, cat. difficulty
UIAA scheme of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi from the guidebook "Skaly u morya" (Rocks by the Sea)
The route is located in the leftmost part of the Chelebi massif; to its right is the route 2B "po Kaminu" (via the Chimney).
Route Description: По левому камину
Description of the 2Б route "up the left chimney" to Chelebi mountain, an alternative via the chimney, with recommendations on equipment and tactics for passing.
Description of the "left chimney" route 2B on Chelebi, variant through the chimney.
Written by Anatolik Eremeev on September 25, 2011
The approach to the route from the parking area near the spring takes 40 minutes, from the road — about an hour.
R0–R1. The start is from a tree at the base of the chimney. The first rope length is "garden-veggie" climbing between bushes and trees. Nothing complicated. The station is on a tree before the "plug". (40 m II)
R1–R2. Unambiguous climbing. It's impossible to get lost.
- "Probka" (plug)
- "Probka kolodets" (plug well) The station is on a tree after the second "plug". (35 m: 5 m IV, 25 m I, 5 m IV) R2–R3. The crux rope length. This is where the most interesting part begins. From the tree, approach the "plug" before entering the deep dark chimney. If the rocks are slippery, you can hang a foot loop in the "hourglass". Then move a couple of meters up the chimney. Climb in "raspor" (opposition) — you won't be able to do it otherwise :). Protection:
Route Description: Дырка
Ascent to the summit via the north-west slope, route description, technical difficulty, and features.
12
Route Description: Дырка
The "Wedding" route, category 2A complexity, to the summit of Chelebi-Yaurn-Beli, a description of the passage of 7 sections and belay organization.
Route №13
“Wedding” (“The Hole”)
2A IV 260 m (7 pitches). Average passage time — 3–5 hours. The easiest route to the summit of Chelebi-Yaurun-Beli, however, climbers should be able to navigate the terrain well. The starting point of the route is a horizontal shelf, on the western edge of which a tree grows. Two memorial plaques dedicated to deceased climbers can serve as landmarks. R0–R1: 30 m. Go left along the shelf to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Insurance point on the tree.
- 10 m I
- 20 m II–III R1–R2: 40 m. This is the most difficult section of the route. Up through simple rocks to a rock spall. Continue moving up through it and then through simple sloping rocks to a large shelf overgrown with trees. Insurance point on one of them.
- 15 m II
- 10 m IV
Report on the winter ascent of the 5B category route to Forosskiy kant in Crimea, made by the team from the Rostov region.
Russian Championship
Report of the Rostov Region team
Class of altitude-technical ascents
Foros cliff. Big fountain
5B category of difficulty
Winter ascent
Ascent Passport
- Russia, Crimea, Foros cliff, southwestern part of the Crimean coast. Height 660 m above sea level.