Russian Championship

Report of the Rostov Region team

Class of altitude-technical ascents

Foros cliff. Big fountain

5B category of difficulty

Winter ascent

Ascent Passport

Russia, Crimea, Foros cliff, southwestern part of the Crimean coast. Height 660 m above sea level.
Classification of the route 5B.
Characteristic of the route: rock (winter ascent).
Height difference of the route: 240 m

Route length: 300 m. Length of sections:

V category of difficulty 198 m
VI category of difficulty 102 m. Average steepness:
Main part of the route: 70°
Total route: 70°

Equipment used:

Anchor hooks — 1 pc., petals — 1 pc., boxes — 2 pcs., friends — 1 set.

Climbing hours — 8 h, descent — 30 min.
Leader: Pravdivets M. E.

Participant: Lukienko P. A.

Start of the route: March 9, 2015

Reach the summit: March 18, 2015

Team coach: Orekhova V. T.

Tactical actions of the team

The ascent of the rope team was carried out according to the tactical plan, thanks to the detailed study of the route and the well-coordinated work of the team. The work of the team was organized as follows: 30% of the entire route, the team worked simultaneously, mainly on the route, the first to work was Pravdivets M.E. The first two ropes of the route were climbed by the team in cloudy weather. On the third rope, a stormy wind with heavy precipitation (rain and wet snow) and strong fog arose. The air temperature was from 0 to −2°C. The completion of the route was carried out in the twilight. The group's communication with observers was carried out using radio communication and mobile phone.

List of equipment

a) Standard, additional, special equipment:

Main rope — 2 × 50 m
Carabiners — 15
Harness — 2
Descent loops — 4
Extension loops — 8
Rock hammers — 2
Rock hooks — 15
Nuts — 1
Self-insurance loops — 6
Boxes, wedges — 5
Skyhooks — 2b) Bivouac equipment, clothing:
Personal equipment — 2
Down jacket — 1
Protective helmets — 2
First aid kit — 1
Poncho — 2 c) Communication, signaling means:
Radio station (type) — Alinco Don-1 — 1
Flashlights — 2.

Ascent schedule

Date	Section №	L, M	γ°	Category of difficulty
03.01.201	5-6	49	70	5Б A2+
	4-5	48	40	5a
	3-4	55	60	6А A1
	2-3	49	55	5Б A2
	1-2	47	60	6А A2+
	0-1	51	55	5Б/6А A2+

Description of the route by sections.

R0–R1

On the slab, first climbing, then on aid climbing, there is a bolt, we reached a crack, up the crack, to a mulda with trees, on the left upper tree is the belay station.

R1–R2

From the tree, left and up 5 m, then up the cracks, a bit to the left, the relief is rich, we climbed about 10 m, to an overhang. Under the overhang, a bolt. From the bolt up the slab on skyhooks (one relief, followed by 2 holey) to a tree. From the tree, right and up on a small ledge, we reached a ledge. Climbing was tense at first, after about 10 m it became easier.

R2–R3

From the ledge, up an internal corner, initially climbing, in the upper part on aid climbing. The belay station is a bit above a small tree, there is a bolt and a hook.

R3–R4

From the belay station, up and right, to a ledge, without going too far to the right, we moved up in the direction of a corner — a chimney.

Up the chimney, complex climbing, we wanted to use aid climbing, but without camalots it didn't work out well, we reached a flattening, then up and right, to a pine tree. On it is the belay station.

R4–R5

From the belay station:

5 m up,
then on a sloping ledge to the left, about 30 m, to a large boulder.

Above it is the belay station, a bolt and a hook. To the left, 10 m away, the belay station of "Grey cornices" is visible. III

R5–R6 From the belay station up the slab, initially 5 m on aid climbing, then climbing, we reached a rusty streak, here is a bolt. From the bolt on aid climbing, on rakkoviny and thin cracks up to a small ledge, a bolt. From the bolt up (a hole for a skyhook), then climbing, on a good crack, we reached the summit.

Technical photo of the route