Crimean Mountains
Route Description: Брынзы
Route 4B through the center of the central part of the wall via an inner corner; length is 430 m, passage takes 4-6 hours.
Through the center of the central part of the wall through the internal corner, 4B (methodology by A. Brynza, 1991)
The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend along a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, no category).
On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend 8 meters up a steep internal corner to the start of a long inclined
ledge. Then traverse along the ledge to the right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical cracks, and in the middle part, a large and deep internal corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I).
On the R3–R4 section — first, 35 m up the right crack, then move left to a small ledge near the middle crack. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) up the middle crack to the exit into the large and deep internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+).
On the R5–R6 section — first, 40 m along the scree to the steep part of the internal corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially along the wall, and then up the crack, ascend to a complex chimney. Climb it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By passing it on the right along a steep wall, exit onto a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 80°, V+).
On the R6–R7 section — first, 20 m up and left along the scree, then up the left wall. Along an inclined ledge, exit onto a ridge and then up along it or the slabs (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 75°, V).
Route Description: Вопрос
Description of the Kilse-Buрун — 3 route, category 3B, via the second counterfort of the western part of the massif, climbed by V. Chekanov and V. Kozin in 1973.
Kilse-Burun — 3
Via the second counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 3B (IV, 80 m) (V. Chekanov and V. Kozinog's route, 1973)
The approach to the route from the road begins at the end of the long zigzag of the road. From it, the road further goes along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. On the trail:
- At first, approach a small, separately protruding rock, previously often used for training.
- By going around the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to the base of the second counterfort of the western part of the massif. An additional landmark can be a large rusty spot on the sheer wall in
Route Description: Вопросик
Description of the "Kilse-Burun — 2" route via the third buttress of the western part of the massif, complexity category 3B, length 190 m, ascent time 3-4 hours.
Kilse-Burun — 2
Via the third counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 2B category
The approach to the route begins slightly west of the campsite under Kilse-Burun, 50 m east of the "36/18" kilometer post of the old highway. First, left along the trail, and then up simple rocks to the exit to a long inclined terrace. Along it, 100 m to the right and up. Then turn left and ascend simple rocks to a small terrace at the base of a small rock circus located between the third and fourth counterforts of the western part of the massif (R0 section).
On the R1–R2 section — in the central part of the obscured wall:
- initially 35 m up and to the right in the direction of a small ledge (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — initially a little up, and then up and left to a separate pine on the ridge of the counterfort (R2–R3: 30 m, 75°, IV+). Further, routes #2 and #3 coincide. On the R3–R4 section — from the pine 10 m up and to the right along a 10-meter steep internal corner, and then 30 m up and left along the ridge (R3–R4: 10 m, 80°, IV+; 30 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up 80 m along the ridge of the counterfort to the exit to a large terrace. On it, the main part of the route ends (R4–R5: 80 m, 70°, III). Along the terrace (R5 section — yayla):
Route Description: Локомотив
The "Lokomotiv" route to the summit of Kilse-Buрун, category III, runs along the left side of the third buttress on the western part of the massif.
Kilse-Burun — R1
On the left side of the third buttress of the western part of the massif («Lokomotiv»), category 3B (III, 260 m) (route by A. Brynza, 1990)
For the first time, this route was climbed by me along with students of the Dnipropetrovsk National University of Railway Transport, where I work. By right! img-0.jpeg As pioneers, we named it «Lokomotiv». A characteristic feature of the route is that in its lower part, it passes through a section of the wall covered with ivy, which is why it is sometimes called «Plyushch» («Ivy»). The approach to the route from the road starts at the end of the long zigzag road. From there, the road continues straight along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. Initially, follow the path to a small, separately protruding rock used for training. By passing the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to a wide internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses of the western part of the massif (R0: 250 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — up the steep internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses. First, 30 m up its right part, and then 10 m up and to the right under the wall overgrown with ivy (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, III). On the R2–R4 section — up and to the right to a large pine tree at the base of the steep internal corner (R2–R3: 20 m, 75°, III; 20 m, 60°, II). On the R3–R4 section — from the pine tree 30 m up the steep internal corner to a sloping terrace. From it, up the left side of the buttress, overcoming a steep short wall through a cleft first (R3–R4: 40 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up the buttress through rocks of medium complexity to a large pine tree at the beginning of the steep internal corner (R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III).
Route Description: По правой стороне 4-го контрфорса З части массива
**Route 5 to the summit of Kilse-Buрун**: a description of the route, including terrain details and difficulty level.
Kilse — Burun — 5.
On the right side of the fourth buttress of the western part of the massif, beyond
The approach begins the same way as for routes #3 and #4, 50 m west of the road signpost "36/18". First, ascend via the trail, and then via simple rocks to a long terrace and proceed along it 150 m to the right under the central part of the fourth buttress. On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up the simple rocks of the central part of the buttress (it coincides with route #4) (R1–R2: 40 m, 50°, I). Further, the route passes slightly to the right of "Three Pines" ("Три сосны"). On section R2–R3 — ascend via a cleft turning into an internal corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 50°, I). On section R3–R4 — first 10 m up a sheer cleft under an overhanging wall. It is bypassed on the right via an internal corner and then upwards through it (R3–R4: 20 m, 80°, IV; 20 m, 75°, III). On section R4–R5 — ascend via a bushy internal corner (R4–R5: 45 m, 70°, II). On section R5–R6 — ascend 45 m via an internal corner, which expands in places and turns into a chimney in its upper part, to exit onto the eastern shoulder of the buttress. From it, 10 m along a steep wall onto a terrace. The main part of the route ends here (R5–R6: 45 m, 70°, II; 10 m, 70°, III). Further (section R6–yaila) — exit onto the summit plateau via a gentle gully (R6–yaila: 200 m, 45°, no technical difficulties). The length of the main part of the route is 210 m. The ascent takes 3 hours.
Route Description: По стене левого края Ц части массива
Description of the 2B category difficulty route to the Kilse-Buroun summit via the wall of the left edge of the central part of the massif.
Kilse-Burun — 7.
Up the wall on the left edge of the central part of the massif, 2B (A. Brynza's route, 1990)
The approach to the route starts approximately 200 m west of the campsite. An additional landmark is that the route begins under a rock cirque located between the western and central parts of the massif. Up a gentle slope for 70 m to the start of the main part of the route (R0: 70 m, 40°, category I).
On the section R1–R2 — up 40 m on
simple rocks. Then (section R1–R3) up and right along a crack to a group of trees (R1–R2: 40 m, 65°, I; R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, II).
On section R3–R4 — up and right 40 m to exit into the right part of the rock cirque. Here it is necessary to overcome a large fault in the wall (R3–R4, 40 m, 70°, II).
On section R4–R5 — up and right to a large internal corner located on the left edge of the T-part of the massif (R4–R5, 40 m, 60°, I; 40 m, 45°, I).
The remaining part of the route completely coincides with route №6. On sections R5–R6 — R8–R9 move up a long internal corner to exit onto a terrace. The most difficult part is the exit onto the terrace. Here you need to move on the right side of the corner. On the terrace, the main part of the route ends (R5–R6: 40 m, 60°, I; R6–R7: 40 m, 70°, II; R7–R8: 40 m, 70°, II; R8–R9: 20 m, 70°, II).
From the terrace, enter a wide couloir (section R9–yayla) and up it 200 m on simple rocks to exit onto the summit plateau (R9–yayla: 200 m, 45°, category I).
Route Description: Три сосны
Description of the "Kilse-Bu-run — 4" route, complexity category 2B, running through the center of the fourth counterfort of the western part of the massif.
Kilse-Burun — 4
Via the center of the fourth counterfort of the western part of the massif (Three Pines), 2B
This route name was chosen by the first ascenders, apparently, because its main part passes through three groups of pines, or maybe they got lost on this simple route — as if between three
pines.
The approach to the route starts at the same place as route №3, 50 m east of the "36–18" pillar of the old highway. First along the trail, and then simple rocks 100 m up and left to a long sloping terrace. Along it 150 m to the right to the base of the fourth counterfort.
On sections R0–R1 and R1–R2, 80 m up simple rocks in the central part of the counterfort to a large shelf with a spreading oak tree.
List:
- R0–R1: 40 m, 50°, I
- R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, I On section R2–R3 — 40 m up a long steep gully to a group of pines. This is the most difficult section of the route (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III).
Route Description: По внутреннему углу левого края Ц части массива
Description of the route 2A category of complexity to the Kilse-Buрун peak through the inner corner of the left edge of the central part of the massif.
Kilse-Burun — 6.
Via the inner corner of the left edge of the central part of the massif, 2A (II, 60 m)
The approach to the route is the same as for routes No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5. Along the inclined terrace
of the western part of the massif 200 m to the right to the circus that separates the western and
central parts of the massif. Through it to the right to the left edge of the central part
(R0–R1: 600 m, 40°, no tech). The main part of the route goes along a long
discontinuous inner corner located on the left edge of the central
part.
The inner corner (section R2–R5) sometimes widens, sometimes narrows, in places turning into
a chimney. In its most difficult section - the exit from the inner corner to a long
Route Description: Песочный Замок
A new route "Sand Castle" (category 6A) on the Kastropolskaya Wall in Crimea, first ascent by E. Poltavets and A. Lavrynenko.
"Sand Castle" - a new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall
A new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall by Evgeny Poltavets (ExtremeTeam, Kharkov) and Alexander Lavrinenko (Odessa).
Having had enough of the usual "Small Mountains", Alexander Lavrinenko and I followed our established tradition and set out to make a first ascent. This tradition probably didn't develop by chance. After racing against the clock on familiar routes, we felt an uncontainable urge for adventure and creative expression.
Alexander Lavrinenko
Evgeny Poltavets
Object
Kastropolskaya Wall, Crimea
Route Description: Жучок
Description of the "Жучок" route, category 1B complexity, to the summit of Kalanykh-Kaya (623 m), located in the Donguz-Orun massif, with details of passage and descent.
Каланых — Кая.
2. «Жучок»
Massif: Каланых — Кая (623 m)
Map:
Difficulty: 1Б Author: Лавриненко А., Цема Е. Year of route creation: 2016 Time to complete: 1–3 hours
Route description: The mountain Каланых — Кая is located west of Ильяс — Кая, directly above the Ласпи tract. It is the highest point of the Донгуз Орун massif.
The "Жучок" route, 1Б category. From the "Миф" restaurant parking lot, go right — up the asphalt road to a large clearing. Across the clearing, at 11 o'clock, in the direction of the mountain. The approach is through terraces overgrown with forest; there is no clear trail. The starting point of the route is marked by a huge pine tree growing on a ledge in the lower part of the wall.