
Bashkhauz, S. Ridge
The approach to the SW — Bashkhauz cirque — is similar to the previous description. Go through the cirque under the slopes of the S. ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass — the last saddle on the S ridge. 3–4 hours from the hut.
Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of destroyed rocks, simultaneously with belay on the protrusions, to the steep rocky ascent. Here:
- Traverse left 20 m.
- Then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along the destroyed rocks (attention! — rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE — shoulder of the ridge.
Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. About 1 hour from the pass.
The descent from the summit is along the SW ridge according to the previous description.
Hazardous areas:
- on the Bezengi glacier — crevasses and rockfall hazard from the S slopes of the peak Varshava;
- on the S ridge — destroyed rocks to the left of the steep ascent of the ridge;
- on the snowy slope of the SW ridge — rockfall hazard at the border with the rocky outcrop.
Special equipment: rock pitons 2–3 pcs.