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Bashkhauz, S. Ridge

The approach to the SW — Bashkhauz cirque — is similar to the previous description. Go through the cirque under the slopes of the S. ridge and ascend to the MSTU pass — the last saddle on the S ridge. 3–4 hours from the hut.

Along the snowy ridge with outcrops of destroyed rocks, simultaneously with belay on the protrusions, to the steep rocky ascent. Here:

  • Traverse left 20 m.
  • Then ascend up the snowy slope (at the beginning of the season), or along the destroyed rocks (attention! — rockfall hazard, possible ice) to the SE — shoulder of the ridge.

Along the gentle ridge simultaneously to the summit. About 1 hour from the pass.

The descent from the summit is along the SW ridge according to the previous description.

Hazardous areas:

  • on the Bezengi glacier — crevasses and rockfall hazard from the S slopes of the peak Varshava;
  • on the S ridge — destroyed rocks to the left of the steep ascent of the ridge;
  • on the snowy slope of the SW ridge — rockfall hazard at the border with the rocky outcrop.

Special equipment: rock pitons 2–3 pcs.

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