10. Archimedes from the north-west via couloir — category III difficulty (V. Ryazanov, V. Benkin, A. Ryabukhin, V. Samokhvalov, and V. Chernov — July 8, 1961). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the left-bank moraine of the Maly Ukyu glacier behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak summit see in description 3. Immediately behind the Southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, [move] right to a large scree and, in its lower part, partially snowed couloir that is snow-ice in its upper part (rope up! the couloir is prone to rockfall). 60–70 m up the rocks on the right side of the couloir, then traverse the couloir left and 60–65 m up the rocks on the left side (beware of streams!). Above the couloir's mouth, from under the slabs, move to the right side of the couloir and exit to the North-West ridge via simple rocks. From the Green Glade — 4–5 hours. Further ascent to the Archimedes summit via the North-West ridge and descent see in description 8.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4 people.
2. Starting bivouac — Bezengi alpine camp.
3. Departure time — 4:00.
4. Equipment: climbing rope — 2 × 30 m; expendable cordelette — 2 m; rock hooks — 4–5; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 8.
5. Places for bivouacs — on the Green Glade under the tongue of the Maly Ukyu glacier; on the snow plateau of the North-West ridge; on a ledge on the eastern side of the pre-summit tower; and on the moraines of the Maly Ukyu glacier.