Башхауз, from the ridge.

From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“crescent-shaped”) moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) exit to the upper circus and through it (attention — hidden crevasses) — under the slopes with the Bash-a-uz-b ridge. To the right of the rocky outcrops from

the glacier along the slopes with the ridge to the left to the talus counterforce coming from the pass. Go around the base of the counterforce from the left, ascend from it along the S slope. Along the ridge of the counterforce, then 30–40 m along the ice drop wall (steepness 50–60°) and along the flattening snowy slope under the Sella pass, 4–5 hours from the hut.

From the pass along the S ridge simultaneously to the summit of the 1st “gendarme” (control tour), then down 30–40 m along the rocky shelves to the snowy slope and bypassing the 2nd “gendarme” to the right — to the ridge. The 3rd “gendarme” — head-on or to the right, and along the snowy ridge (attention — possible cornices to the left) through small rocky “gendarme” head-on to the summit. 3–4 hours from the pass.

Descent from the summit:

• along the SW ridge to the snowy saddle,

• then to the left along the right side of the snowy slope (rockfall hazard from the left),

• to the Bezengi glacier and along it (attention

• Hidden crevasses, under the slopes of the Warsaw peak rockfall hazard — bypassing the S-counterforces of the Sella-Varshava ridge to the hut, 1.5–2 hours.

Hazardous areas:

• On glaciers — hidden crevasses
• Rockfall hazard under the S-slopes of the Warsaw peak
• On the S-ridge, cornices to the left are possible
• When descending from the SW ridge, rockfall hazard from the left

Special equipment:

• Rock pitons — 5–6 pcs.
• Ice screws — 20–3 pcs.
• Crampons — 1–2 pairs