Greater Caucasus

Ascent description to the Dalar peak via the northern wall of 5th difficulty category, route characteristics, and its passage by a group of mountaineers.

Dalar via NE wall, cat. 5B I. Brief Geographical Description The Dalar peak, with an elevation of 3981 meters above sea level, is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge, southwest of the Elbrus peak (Gvandra area, Kichkinokol arch). II. Sporting Characteristics of the Route and Its Exploration Dalar is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The slightly northward-leaning rocky pyramid has long attracted the attention of mountaineers. The northeast wall, rising to almost 4000 meters, seemed particularly challenging yet interesting. The sporty exploration of the walls began in 1956 when a group led by N.M. Semenov first traversed the NE wall up to the base of the tower and then deviated left from the route onto the relatively simple eastern ridge. In 1962, a group from the "Trud" sports society, led by V.V. Stepanov, repeated this path (up to the tower) and then straightened it, deviating from the original route in the last upper part (ascending directly up the tower to the summit). See photo #1. In 1964, a group of Spartakovites led by V.D. Kavunenko followed Stepanov's path. Tactical Plan and Route Description to Dalar Peak via the Northeast Wall, Cat. 5B (Combined) Photo #1

Description of the 5B category difficulty route to the top of Dalar via the North-Eastern edge, Caucasus, Uzunkol valley.

Passport Technical class Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge DALAR via north-eastern edge (Stepanov's route) Category 5B, combined Height difference: 1200 m, length 1500 m, length of category 5-6 sections – 840 m. Average steepness of main sections 80° (3000–3900), including category 5 sections 85° (3400–3600, 3750–3900) Pitons hammered in: rock 94/16, bolted –/–, "friends" 36/4, ice 7/– Team's travel hours: 28 and days – 2 Overnights: 1 – on moraine on the right side of North Dalar glacier, 2 – on "sheep's foreheads" above the third belt (sitting), 3 – on Dalar pass. Leader: Timoshenko V.N. – 1st sports category, participants: Shuralev S., Prasol I., Zheleznyak S. – 1st sports category

First ascent of the northeast wall of Dalar peak in the Caucasus, a challenging rock route (category 5B), climbed by the combined team of "Trud" sports society.

Dalar up the North-East wall. Team of “Trud” Sports Society Team leader: Master of Sports of the USSR Snesarev A. A. Team captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Stepanov V. V. The summit of “Dalar”, view from the North Brief sports characteristic of Dalar peak The year of the beginning of the development of the Gvandra region, where the Dalar peak is located, should be considered 1936, but already in 1937 most of the peaks in this region were conquered.

Report on the ascent of the northeastern wall of Dalar peak by a team from the Spartak DSO sports society in 1964.

Team Composition The MGS DSO "Spartak" team was formed in 1961. During 1961-1963, team members completed a series of climbs up to category 5B difficulty. Already in 1963, the team considered it possible to participate in the All-Union team competitions in the class of technically complex ascents. In July 1963, the team completed part of the declared route, but an earthquake forced the group to return. They completed a route on East Dombay-Ulgen via the south wall, which took 1st place in Moscow. The team composition, as per the application submitted to the judging committee, was determined to be 10 people. As a result of training ascents, the following group composition was determined: Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — leader Shataev V. N. — 1st sports category Polyakov L. D. — 1st sports category Magomedov Kh. K. — 1st sports category

The ascent of Pavel A.V.'s team to the summit of Dalar via the North-Eastern Edge (5B cat., combined route) in the Uzunkol gorge on the Western Caucasus.

Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, 2.3 Peak name: Dalar, North-Eastern edge Category 5B complexity Route type: combined Elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1422 Section lengths: Category V complexity: 830 Category VI complexity: 10 Average steepness:

Report on the ascent of the Moscow Region team to the Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder, first ascent of category 5B complexity.

EAAC Championship in the Rock Category Report On the ascent of Dalar peak via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder (first ascent) by the Combined team of Moscow region 2010 Ascent Passport Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, section according to KMGV-2.3. Dalar peak (3988 m) via the center of the NE wall of the East shoulder. Proposed first ascent of 5B category. Route type — rock climbing.

Report on the ascent made by FA SPb team to the summit of Dalar via the northern counterfort of the northern shoulder, complexity category 5A.

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to Dalar peak (3979 m) via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana), category 5A. The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg 2020 Ascent Passport Western Caucasus, from Nakhar Pass to Chiperezaou Pass. Section No. 2.3 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks. Dalar peak (3979 m), via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana). Category of complexity — 5A.

Report on the ascent of the UTS FASiL team to the summit of Dalar via the Tramontana route, category 5.6, in 2009.

St. Petersburg Championship in mountaineering 2009 Report UTS FASIL St. Petersburg team on the ascent of Dalar peak via Tramontana route (northern buttress of the northern shoulder), first ascent. Table of Contents Contents Route Passport Map of the area with the group's path Brief overview of the area and the ascent object Photograph of the summit with route lines

### Ascent of Lalar Peak via the West Face in 1968 Details of the route, expedition specifics, and weather conditions encountered during the climb.

For the championship of the Central Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society in the category of technically complex ascents. DALAR PEAK via the western wall Team of the Spartak CS DSS Alpine Camp "Uzunkol" | Korablin B. N. | — team leader | | :-------------- | :-------------------- | | Belyaev Yu. S. | — deputy team leader | | Korshunov D. M. | — team member | | Paunksnis R. A. | — team member |

Report on the ascent to Dalar peak via the Eastern ridge (Kavunenko route, 1964) 5A category of difficulty as part of the 2024 North-Western and Central Federal Districts Championship in Alpinism.

North-West and Central Federal Districts Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Technical Class 2024. Report on the Ascent to Mt. Dalar via the East Ridge (Kavunenko Route, 1964) 5A Category of Complexity. I. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Strizhko Yulia Gennadyevna, 2nd sports rank. | | 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Radkova Maria Alekseyevna, 2nd sports rank. Rodyukov Oleg Yuryevich, 2nd sports rank. |