Greater Caucasus

### First Ascent of Zapadnaya Klukhor-Kaya Peak via the Northwest Ridge (Category 3B Difficulty) Description of the first ascent of Zapadnaya Klukhor-Kaya peak via the northwest ridge, route characteristics, and recommendations for climbers.

Ascent Record Ascent level — technically challenging Ascent area — Western Caucasus Peak, its height, ascent route — Zapadnaya Klukhor-Kaya, 3500 m, via the northwest ridge Category of difficulty — 3B Route characteristics — height difference 800 m, average slope 40–45 degrees Total climbing hours — 16–18 Overnight stay — on Hokkel Glacier Group composition:

Ascent to Uzlovaya Kara-Kaya (3620 m) from the South Kara-Kai pass, complexity category, route description and recommendations.

Fig. 1 3. Ascent to the summit Uzlovaya Kara-kaya (Zapadnaya Dvuushka, 3620 m) from the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass — category of difficulty (see Fig. 1) From the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass, first along a steep (45–50°) snowy slope, and then along the ledges upwards to the slab (protection!). Under the slab, along the ledges to the right and on the right side of the slab (piton protection!) — exit upwards to the ridge. Further along the right side of the ridge (simple rocks, but heavily destroyed, prone to rockfall!) — ascent to the ledge with several pinnacles. Under the ledge, exit to the left side of the ridge and along the moderately difficult rocks (protection through the ledges!) — ascent to the yellow ascent. Bypassing the yellow ascent first on the left 5–6 m, and then up the crack

Ascent to Zapadnaya Kara-kaya (3570 m) from the Zapadnaya Kara-kaya pass, category 6B difficulty, route description and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 1 Ascent to the summit of Zapadnaya Kara-kaya (3570 m) from the Zapadno-Karakaysky pass — cat. diff. 6B (Fig. 1) The approach to the Kara-kaya massif can be made by two variants: 1st variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, drive by car through Karachaevsk and stanitsa Kardanikskaya to the settlement of Rudnichny. Below Rudnichny, cross the river Aksaut via a log bridge, then proceed 700–800 m upstream along the river and ascend the slope to the right and upwards to a shepherd's trail. Follow the trail to the site of old sheepfolds and further across the glacier to the Yuzhno-Karakaysky pass. From Rudnichny, it takes 6–7 hours. 2nd variant. From Dombayskaya polyana, descend via Sulakhatsky or Alibeksky pass (through the "green hotel") to the Jalovchat glacier, cross it slightly above the tongue, and ascend a steep scree slope to the green shoulder of the northern spur of the Aksaut massif — bivouac site. From Dombayskaya polyana: 8–9 hours (Sulakhatsky and Alibeksky passes — cat. diff. 1A).

Report on the first ascent of the northwest wall of the Kara-Kaya Main peak, category 6B difficulty, in the "Krasnaya Zvezda" alpine camp in 1985.

104 Central Council of the "Trud" Voluntary Sports Society "Krasnaya Zvezda" Alpine Camp Report on the first ascent of the Northwest wall of Kara-Kaya Main peak (approximately category 6B) Team members: USSR Master of Sports Andreev R.N. - team leader Assorov A.V. - participant Shkrabkin A.S. - participant

Ascent of the instructors team from the "Dombai" alpine camp to the top of Main Karakaya via the NW wall of the left part in 1974, description of the route of the 6th category of difficulty.

Report on the Ascent in the Area of the Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass to the summit of Glavnaya Karakaya via NW wall (left part) (3896 m) by the team of instructors from DOMBAY alpine camp: SAVCHUK V.A. — CMS KOROTKOV V.A. — MS KARPOV Yu.G. — CMS PERKOVSKY L.I. — CMS MOCHNIKOV E.I. — CMS AZARYEV I.A. — 1st sports category Team coaches: MAGOMEDOV Kh.K.; KUROCHKINA Z.V. DOMBAY — 1974

Ascent to the summit Main Karakaya (3890 m) via the Eastern ridge, difficulty category 3A, technically challenging rock routes in the Western Caucasus.

Class of ascent: technically complex Region of ascent ridge: Western Caucasus, Karvkeysky spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Kara-Kaya node between South-Karvkeysky and Mvruhsky passes. Peak, its height, ascent route: Glavnaya Karakaya, 3890 m. Rocky route along the Eastern ridge. Estimated category of difficulty: — 3А Characteristics of the route: height difference 570 m. Average steepness 33°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none. Number of pitons driven: For belaying for creating artificial support points | rock | 9 | 2 (organization of descents) |

Description of the first ascent via the Eastern ridge of the summit Glavnaya Kara-Kaya with 3A difficulty category, made in 1975 by a group of climbers from alpinist camp “Aksaut”.

пр. № 431 от 1/3-77, п.4. ЗА, пп. Report on the Ascent of Main Kara-Kaya Peak via the First Ascent Route on the Eastern Ridge, approximately Category 3B difficulty, August 8, 1975 Main Kara-Kaya Peak is located in the Karakai spur of the Main Caucasian Range. The peak can be accessed via four ridges: Eastern South-Eastern Northern South-Western Favorable weather conditions, convenient access routes, and an abundance of classified and unclassified routes of various difficulty levels make this peak highly interesting for mountaineers. The following routes have been classified on Main Kara-Kaya Peak: via the South-Eastern ridge — Category 2B

### Ascent route to Peak KAP via North-Eastern ridge, category IIb difficulty, 700 m elevation gain, 6 hours of climbing.

DESCRIPTION of the ascent route to Peak KAP From the Ali-Bek base camp along the trail through the Ali-Bek river up to the Belalakai canyon via the "Monkey trail" to the overnight stay. 1.5 hours. From the overnight stay through a snow bridge in the canyon or via a wedged stone to the trail on the right-bank moraine of the Belalakai glacier and along it to the tongue of the glacier. Crossing the tongue of the glacier in its lower part, approach under a wide green couloir and up it to the saddle on the north-eastern ridge of Peak KAP. 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. ASCENT PASSPORT Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass Summit

Description of the ascent route to peak U1 451 in the Caucasus Range area, complexity category - 1A.

REPORT on the ascent made in the area ch. Caucasian ridge and its spurs from Marukh pass to Pakhar pass to the summit of KAP PIK (3400 m) from the Belalakaisky glacier (from the north) Group Members: Slezyn Yu. — MS Ovcharenko V.D. — 1st sports category Pilipenko V.S. — 1st sports category Volkov L.B. — 1st sports category

### Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) via Category 1B Route Three route options, equipment recommendations, and optimal departure time guidance for climbers.

Ascent to Kap Peak (3207 m) — Category 1B (Fig. 16) From the "Alibek" hut along the trail to the glacier or from the bivouac near Turye Lake along the gentle part of the Alibek Glacier — approach to the far right couloir of the Kap Peak slopes. Up the couloir (rockfall hazard!) to the cirque step. There are three ascent options: 1st option: To the right along the snowfield into the couloir and along the slabs (belay!) left-up to the ridge. Then along the ridge (belay through outcrops!). The upper part of the ridge is scree. The red rocks of the forepeak are bypassed on the right, then again exit to the ridge and along it to the summit. The summit dome is snow-covered. The journey from the bivouac to the summit takes 5–6 hours. Descent via the ascent route — 3–4 hours.