Sokol — 29
Hohla po zerekalam 5B cat. dif.[№14]
(A. Kruglenko, aka
«Hohol»)
Hohla po zerekalam 2nd rope
R0–R1: 50 m, 6B, A1. Up the crack through a characteristic tree, then up left to a neat traverse left to a piton. After it — a tricky move (hole). Station on a bollard and pitons.
R1–R2: 50–55 m, 6B, A1. Up and slightly left via a system of cracks to a bollard, through it — exit to a flattening, then right up a neat traverse (through a bollard) without a possibility to arrange belay — 12–15 m to a crack. Up it. Station in an inner corner on a shelf on our own gear. In the photo — left variant. There is no information on the right (first ascensionists') variant.
R2–R3: 40 m, 6A. Up an overgrown crack, bypass a cornice on the left, protection on existing pitons + own, station a bit below an inclined block-slab, on two pitons.
R3–R5: ? Go and send us a description :-) Apparently, the original variant goes straight up, but we didn't find a logical passage up and went left.
Recommended gear:
Rope 50–60 m, set of nuts and cams, 20 quickdraws, 2 large and 3–4 small slings, 3 étriers, hammers, assorted pitons, skyhooks, including those for holes.
General impression:
A good 5B grade climb. By effort, it is more like 6. No easy or hard ropes, each rope requires work. Time to complete 7–9 hours. In winter conditions, the route is done in two days, which is what we were doing.