East European Highlands
Route Description: Грищенко
Description of the "Triangle" route, category 6A difficulty, on Triangle Mountain (1000 m), including details of passage and recommendations for climbers.
Triangle — 8
Author: Alexander Lavrinenko («Одессит»), Odessa
Photos by Aleksey Zhilin
Gora Treugolnik (Triangle Mountain, 1000 m above sea level) is located above the settlement of
Parkovoe, 2 km west of Marcheki. The wall has a western orientation, so it is almost invisible
from the lower road.
The wall's length in the central part is >400 m, height difference is >300 m.
The best way to approach the wall is through the quarry. From the spring up the scree — 15
minutes to the wall.
Route Description: Звездный
New "Zvezdny" (Star) route, category 6B difficulty on Trekugolnik peak in Crimea, description of the ascent and technical information.
Treugolnik — 11
Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Ukraine
New route on Treugolnik "Zvezdniy" 6B
The next day we climbed. But no, the championship rules put us in a situation where we had to climb "fast and light". And how can you climb fast when there's snow, rain, frost - so we had to spend the night stylishly, without a sleeping bag and with a bonfire.
To summarize:
The line turned out to be directive to the bastion.
- The complexity of some sections is really A3+ (maybe even A4). Very similar to the first ropes of Krizuk's route on Peak Odessa 4810 m.
- Danger - by my standards - is off the charts.
- Style - couldn't be easier.
Route Description: Тележенко
Description of the "Forosskiy kant" route, category 2B difficulty level with an emphasis on the technical skills required for participants.
Foros kant. Telezhenko, 2B cat. sl. A strong key rope requires the leader's ability to climb and belay on rocks not less than F 5 c–6 a. This means that if there isn't one, then it's better not to go. To fail to climb and abandon the route is one thing. To fall off and ... is another.
Route Description: По правому краю 3 части массива
Description of the route of 2B category of complexity to the top of Forosskiy Kant along the right edge of the western part of the massif.
Forosskiy Kant — 5
On the right edge of the western part of the massif, 2B
From the alpinist camps under Forosskiy Kant, proceed about 250 m towards
Baidarskie Vorota until a sharp turn of the road. If you go a little further, then,
turning around, you can see the inscription "Тележенко" in the lower part of the sheer wall.
The start of the main part of the route is to the right of this inscription.
From the road turn, first along the trail, and
Then up simple rocks to the right of the sheer wall to the middle of the counterforce, 10 m
below a long and large crevice. There is a station on 3 rock hooks. (R0: 50 m,
Route Description: ПК
The "Along the Eastern edge" route of category 2B passes along the inner corner of the Forosskiy Kant wall, length 240 m, duration 2–3 hours.
By the Eastern Edge (ПК), 2B (V. Kozinogo route, 1973)
The route goes through a wide internal corner that vertically cuts through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering in the ridge between the peaks of Forosky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and serves as a conditional boundary between them. From the road, near the alpinist camps:
- 200 m up along the trail
- then 50 m along simple rocks under a reddish overhanging wall located slightly to the right of the wide internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no category). On the R3–R4 section — first up the slab, and then up and to the right 20 m (R3–R4: 40 m, 70–60, II–III). On the final section of the route — first left and up 25 m to a small couloir. From it, up to a large, overgrown with bushes, couloir. Along it, 25 m up to the summit plateau (R4 — summit: 120 m, 50–60°, I–II). Variation: On the R1–R2 section — from the grotto up, first along the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+). The length of the main part of the route is about 240 m. Time to complete the route is 2–3 hours. P.S. The full name of this route is not "Right Edge" as some people think, but "P — — — and kitten". This is not a literary name given by the first ascenders — Dnipropetrovsk students who got into trouble on this route.
Route Description: Папа Карло
The "Papa Carlo" route, category 3B, to the Forosskiy kant, running along the western part of the massif with a key section of category V complexity.
Foros kant (600 m). 1. “Papa Carlo”
Massif: Foros kant (600 m), Grade: 3B, V Author: A. Kuzmenko, V. Razuvaev Year of creation: 2005 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 355 m Time to complete: 3–5 hours
The route passes through a standalone bastion in the western part of the massif. It is logical but uneven. The crux pitch is clearly a "5" grade.
The start of the route is at the base of the corner of the couloir that bounds the counterfort on the left.
R0–R1 50 m. Up the couloir, then along the inside corner, exit to the right wall from the corner, and ascend to a ledge. There's a tree on the ledge, but it's better to set up a belay station on your own anchors above, just before the next pitch. 50 m III
R1–R2 50 m. Up a crack, then along an inside corner; climbing is difficult, with 2 drill holes. At the top of the corner, traverse 5 m to the left and exit to a large tree via a crack. Belay station.
(Crux pitch. The entire crack is suitable for medium and large-sized protection, including medium friends)
(50 m V)
R2–R3 30 m. From the belay station, move up and to the right into an inside corner. 5 m of challenging climbing in the corner, then it becomes easier - climb up to a tree. (5 m V, 25 m II–III)
Route Description: Папа Карло
The "Papa Carlo" route, category 3B, on the western part of the Forosskiy Kant, 355 m, 7 pitches, 3–5 hours to complete.
Foros kant — 1. "Papa Carlo"
Massif: Foros kant (600 m); Grade: 3B, V; Author: A. Kuzmenko, V. Razuvaev; Year of route creation: 2005; Number of pitches: 7; Length: 355 m; Time to complete: 3–5 hours
The route goes through a standalone bastion in the western part of the massif. Logical, but uneven. The key pitch is clearly "five". The start of the route is at the base of the corner - a couloir that limits the counterfort on the left.
R0–R1 50 m. Up the couloir, then along the internal corner, from the corner move to the right wall, and exit to a ledge. There's a tree on the ledge, but it's better to set up a station on your own anchors above, under the start of the next pitch. 50 m III
R1–R2 50 m. Up the crack, then along the internal corner, climbing is difficult, there are 2 drill holes. In the upper part of the corner - traverse 5 m to the left, and exit to a large tree via a crack. Station. (Key pitch. The entire crack is suitable for medium and large placements, and medium friends) (50 m V)
R2–R3 30 m. From the station, up and to the right into the internal corner. 5 m of difficult climbing in the corner, then it becomes easier - climb up to a tree. (5 m V, 25 m II–III)
R3–R4 50 m. Up through несложным internal corners to a ledge with trees. II
R4–R5 50 m. Up to a ledge, then up, without going left, station on a large tree. III
R5–R6 25 m. From the tree up along the internal corner, exit to a forested ledge. II
Route Description: По левой стороне Зеленого угла
Description of the alpinist route "Foroskiy kant — 7" of the 4a category of complexity, passing on the left side of the "green corner" to the top of the massif.
Foros kant — 7
Along the left side of the "green corner", 4a (20 m, V) (route by A. Brynza, 1991)
The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and called Green due to the moss covering it. The route starts at the base of the couloir, descending from the Green inner corner. From the alpine camps, walk about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner. From the road, start moving up the scree towards the steep wall. Having overcome a small wall, move right along the shelf to the large inner corner located on the
Route Description: По левой стороне Канта
The "Left side of the western counterfort" route (category 4b) passes through the Zelyony angle and includes challenging climbing and traversing sections.
On the left side of the western counterfort, 4b
The western part of the massif and the most complex southeastern wall are separated by a large internal corner, descending from the summit plateau and named Zelyony (Green) due to the moss covering it. The route begins at the base of the couloir descending from the Zelyony internal corner. From the climbers' parking lot, walk about 150 m towards Baydarskie Vorota until the start of the ascent to the Zelyony corner. From the road, start moving up the talus slope towards a steep wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — overcoming a small wall, move right along a shelf to a large internal corner turning into a sheer chimney on the left side of a pillar. Up it to the top
Route Description: По левой стороне Канта
Description of the route "On the left side of Kant" category 4B complexity with details of passage and organization of stations.
"To the left of Kant" 4B
The beginning — 3 ropes are shared with KPK and 4A "To the left of the Green corner" — stations are drilled,
because in these areas it is possible to accumulate several teams.
R4–R5 — the station was on a small tree, inconvenient. Hammered in 2 hammers.
R5–R6 — added a hanger to the one that was already there.
R6–R7 — near a tree, made a station on a ledge with 2 hangers.
The route further leads to KPK.