Sokol. "Pesnya" (Lebedinaya pesnya / Swan Song) route 5B (V+ A2 188 m), 5 pitches. First ascent: A. Kruglenko (Feodosiya) — A. Paksyutkin (Simferopol), 2007.

The start of the route is from the large starting ledge as described for routes №31–38 (according to the guidebook) of Sector II.img-0.jpeg

Routes of the Central Sector of Sokol

Technical description of the route:

  • R0–R1: (48 m, V+ A1+)

From the starting ledge, the first few meters follow the bolts of the "Vos'merka / Eight" route, then move up, bypassing the bulge shaped like an "eight" on the right. Above the bulge, use the corners and cracks to reach a plate and follow it to an inclined, overgrown corner (anchors, pitons, "carrot" left by the authors). Set up a belay station in the corner on your own protection points.

  • R1–R2: (45 m, V+ A2)

Move up through the plate to the base of an overgrown crack, then up the crack for 18 m. From here, move left "to 11 o'clock" across the plate to a small ledge. There is little relief for protection.

Protection:

  • pitons are preferable;
  • rock anchors facilitate the organization of protection, but require finding micro-cracks.

Belay station on a ledge (pitons, anchors + your own points).

  • R2–R3: (48 m, V+ A1+)

Move up and left for 5 meters, then through a plate in the direction of "11 o'clock" towards a visible corner formed by a bulge. Bypass the bulge on the right, then move up, on the right side of the bulge. Protection is facilitated by:

  • anchors
  • pitons

Belay station in an internal corner near the upper bulge on your own points.

  • R3–R4: (40 m, V+ A1+)

Move up towards a "rotten" internal corner for 15 m. Then left and up towards the left part of a cornice for 12 m. Follow a ledge above the cornice into an internal corner, then up it to a ledge.

  • R4–R5: (7 m, IV)

Exit onto a plateau. Belay station here.

Sources

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