New route on Sokol "AlisA" 5B

In Crimea (Sudak region) on Sokol mountain between "Vos'merka" and "Ryzhiy Ugol" routes a new route "AlisA" 5B has appeared. Sokol mountain (Sudak)

The "AlisA" route is 160 m long from R0. The start of the route is the same as the R0 station of "Ryzhiy Ugol". On the wall, there is an inscription "AlisA". You need to go through a vertical slit - a groove above the inscription.□

Thread of the "AlisA" route

R1, R2, R3 stations are equipped with rappel rings. R4 station is on a plateau - a tree.

The route is thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks and flakes. The route is recommended for well-prepared climbers in technical and psychological terms.

• relief skyhooks
• hole skyhooks
• vertical and horizontal cams
• topo guides in sufficient quantity

The "AlisA" route was created by Pugaсhev Sergey and Nandachiy Sergey (Terr) with the sponsorship support of Kalyachev Alexander (Moscow) and Sudak CSO.

First ascent of "AlisA"

First ascent of "AlisA"

First ascent of "AlisA". Text author: Sergey Nandachiy (Sudak)

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE:

• R0–R1: VI, 45 m, 80°, AII, e1; (three bolts). The start of the route is to the left of the "AlisA" inscription along a characteristic vertical 10-meter crack - a groove. Then up the slabs, with some deviation to the left. Continue moving in the direction slightly to the left of the tree. The station is to the left and above the tree, at a height of 45 m, on a convenient ledge. The station is on a bolt with a rappel ring and an old "carrot". (The old "carrot" and bolt are an old station of "Vos'merka", now "Vos'merka" is not climbed this way).
• R1–R2: V, 40 meters, 75°, AI, e1, (four bolts) F6a+. From the station, vertically up 6 m, (bolt), then traverse to the right 6 m (bolt), then to the right under the overhanging crack with AID (possibly climbing up F6a+). After the 8.0 mm bolt, move up, going a little to the left, you can exit by climbing to the station. The station is made on two bolts, on a convenient ledge. The left one has a rappel ring.
• R2–R3: VI+, 45 m, 85°, AII, e1, (5 bolts). From the station AID to the bolt (skyhooks). Then 15 m along the characteristic destroyed relief under the inclined slab. After the bolt, through the overhanging slab (AID skyhooks, bolt), bypassing the inclined cornice to the left at the base. After that, move up in the direction of the characteristic niche under the large cornice. The station is made in a convenient niche, on two bolts, the right one with a rappel ring.
• R3–R4: VI+, 30 m, 100°, AII, e1, (6 bolts). From the station, move to the right - up, after the bolt, attention - a large flake is alive. The main overhanging cornices are passed along the bolts. Then along the overhanging groove to the exit. Along the way, there is a bolt hammered for passage, the length of the bolt cylinder is 8.0 mm × 20 mm. The station is on the plateau, on a tree. The tree is equipped by nature as a rappel.

For the route, it is recommended:

• to use a double rope
• hammers for both participants
• hole skyhooks for 8.0 mm diameter
• relief skyhooks
• vertical, horizontal, anchor, U-shaped cams
• cable stoppers of various sizes.

Impression of the route.

A good honest 5th category, thoroughly cleaned of loose rocks and flakes, equipped with rappel rings, so there is a real opportunity to correct the choice error. Unfortunately, despite the complexity, it is too short to be a 6th category. Recommended for well-prepared climbers.