«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches). The route was climbed on 11–12.10.2013 by Zakolodnii A.V. and Olivson A.Ya. The route is interesting and varied, following the natural terrain.

The route passes between the «Two cornices» 5A and «Red corner» 5A routes, through the center of the two cornices. Two bolts were left on the stations along the route.

Sokol mountain routes (Crimea)

Technical description.

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches)

From the road, orienting on a large red overhang in the lower part of the wall, approach the route.

The first station is on a cypress tree.

R0–R1 30 m. V. From the tree up to a large tree at the beginning of a large corner. Station on a large tree.

R1–R2 50 m. VI, A2. Up the corner to the second horizontal crack 20 m. IV. Then traverse left to a system of small slots and cavities 8 m. V. Further up, orienting on a gully with bushes 22 m. VI, A2. Station in the upper part of the gully on personal anchors.

R2–R3 50 m. VI, A2. Up the crack under the overhang 15 m. VI+, A2. Then bypass the overhang left and up to the corner 20 m. V-. At the beginning of the corner, cross right through the overhang into the crack, along the crack to the bolt near the tree 15 m. VI, A2. Station: bolt and personal anchors.

R3–R4 30 m. V-. Up and right under the overhang, orienting on a large vertical crack. Station under the overhang: bolt and personal anchors, (the bolt is hammered 50 mm).

R4–R5 21 m. VI, A2+.

• Up a small crack 3 m. A2+.
• Then cross right into a large crack, up it 8 m. A2.

On this section, the rock is fragile, and with inadequate protection, one can fall onto the ledge!!!

• Further along an oblique crack right and up 10 m. VI.

Station at the base of the overhang on personal anchors.

R5–R6 35 m. VI, A2.

• Up and left along the crack, under the center of the cornice.
• Cross the cornice along the crack.
• Further along small cracks and cavities, exit onto the upper bastion.

Station on a tree or a rock.

R6–R7 40 m. IV. Up a positive wall with trees into a crack, orienting on a small tree. Station: tree and personal anchors.

R7–R8 50 m. IV. Up the crack 15 m. Then move left into a passage of a vertical, oblique overhang. Station in the right part of the ridge, on a tree.

R8–R9 45 m. III. Along the right part of the ridge up to the summit. Station on a bolt and personal anchors. Two bolts on the stations, 70×10 mm.

To climb the route, you need:

• two ropes,
• 20 quickdraws,
• 10 anchors,
• 2 rock pitons, wedges,
• a set of nuts, one and a half sets,
• cams or friends, (a few large sizes like camalot #3 will be helpful on the cornice).
• The rest is optional.

Sokol mountain. «Cornice in the fog» route.

Sokol mountain. «Cornice in the fog» route.

Sokol mountain. «Cornice in the fog» route. R2–R3 section.

Sokol mountain. «Cornice in the fog» route. R5–R6 section.

based on materials from http://alpclub.com.ua/↗