Sokol — 24
Author: Alex Kuzmitsky, Moscow
New route on Sokol: "Zapakh zhenshchiny" (6c, A2+)
I wanted to climb this line for a long time, but it didn't work out. Either I had to walk and describe routes for the guidebook, or help Terr пробивать rock climbing trails on Bolvan. And there was never enough time for a new project. Finally, during the last May holidays, I found time to implement my plan.
Tension. There should be no more and no less bolts than required for safe passage of the route. This is important. Moreover, you need to try not to lose the thread and not lead the route somewhere to the side or to the wrong crack by mistake. Experience, sense of relief and preliminary preparation help here, when you spend hours examining the wall, studying section by section of the proposed line.
gratitude to Lena Kuznetsova for kind words and humor, Andrey Petrov for support and being there, Misha Volkov for endurance, Yulia Kuznetsova for intolerance in views and critical thinking, Tolya Dzhuliy for guitar and arrival, Den Zhilin for acquaintance and openness, Terr for "Russian translation" and everything else, Igor Petrov for hospitably hosting us again at his rescue service and, of course, to my partner Zhenya Kholodov for hard work and iron will.
R2–R3: 40 m, 5B. Up and then to the right along the crack with grass, through several characteristic bushes. Insurance with nuts and pitons. Station on two bolts at the end of the crack, next to a large almost dead belay ledge.
R3–R4: 35 m, 6A. Straight up to the bolt (6–7 m) with careful climbing on the slab, then move up to the left towards a large destroyed and overgrown crack. On the transition to the crack, a bolt is hammered. Station on 2 bolts in the crack, on a mini ledge.
R4–R5: 50 m, 6B. To the right along the continuation of the crack, with a gradual departure up through the system of cracks and through a piton with a bolt to the left with complex climbing on the slabs, towards the belay ledge. Insurance with pitons, anchor pitons and existing bolts.
- Above the first belay ledge is the second
- Above it is a station on bolts on a mini ledge
R5–R6: 40 m, 6c. To the right up with complex climbing on the slabs under the overhanging wall. Along it upwards (there are 2 stationary bolts) with climbing 6c–6c+. Further straight up along the large crack in an off-width. The higher, the easier the climbing and the more opportunity to organize insurance. Always orient towards the tree on the brow of the rock, but on exit, climb not on it, but a little to the left — more monolithic rocks. Station on the plateau, on one of the trees.