Along the southeastern wall to the right of the "diamond" (right diamond), 5B (route by P. Denisenko, 1978) *

This is one of the prestigious routes of the Foros Cant. Below is a new version of the route description, prepared by A. Lav­ri­nen­ko. The route goes along the right part of the southeastern wall. From the road at the alpinist camps under Foros Cant, move up and to the left First along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30, uncategorized). On the section R1–R2 — up the slabs to an inclined shelf with a large stump (R1–R2: 30 m, 65°, IV). On the section R2–R3 — first to the right and up along the inner corner to a small tree (30 m, 65°, IV).

Foros Kant — 2B "Bolshoy Fontan"

Massif: Chelebi (657 m); Difficulty: 5A, VI, A2 Author: A. Lavrinenko, A. Kuzmenko Year of route creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 255 m Time to complete: 6–7 hours The route is located in the right part of the Foros Kant wall. The start is to the right of the "Rhombs" route. The approach is the same as for "Rhombs", but instead of turning left at the end, move up towards a large juniper growing under the wall. The start of the route is about 10 meters to the left. The general direction of movement is towards the left edge of the group of trees in the lower part of the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Initially, climb the slab, then continue on aid, there is a bolt, exit into a crack, ascend the crack to a mulda with trees; the belay station is on the upper left tree. (5 m V; 10 m A2; 15 m V; 15 m IV) R1–R2 45 m. From the tree, move up and left for 5 m, then ascend through cracks, slightly left; the terrain is rich, you can climb for about 10 m until reaching an overhang. Under the overhang, there is a bolt. From the bolt, climb up the slab using skyhooks (one relief, followed by two holey ones) to a tree. From the tree, move up and right through a small corner to reach a ledge. Climbing is tense at first, becoming easier after about 10 m. The belay station is on a tree. (15 m V; 5 m A2; 10 m V; 10 m III) R2–R3 40 m. From the ledge, ascend through an internal corner, initially by free climbing, and then on aid in the upper part.

On the right side of the southeast wall, 5A (option 4B)

The route passes on the left side of a wide internal corner, which cuts vertically through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering of the ridge between the peaks of Forossky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and is a conditional boundary between them. The last section of the route, which passes through a sheer wall with two small ledges, is the most difficult. It can be replaced by an ascent along the несложной upper part of the wide internal corner. In this case, the complexity of the route is reduced by half a category (option). From the road, near the alpine camps, 200 m up along the trail, and then 50 m along simple rocks to a grotto located at the base of the internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no tech). On the section R1–R2 — from the grotto up, first on the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. Further (section R2–R3), traverse along the shelf 20 m to the left (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+; 20 m, 70°, II). On the section R3–R5 — up along a steep, smooth wall with a small number of cracks (R3–R5: 30 m, 75°, V+; 50 m, 75°, V). On the section R5–R6 — up and to the right along rocks of medium complexity (R5–R6: 40 m, 70°, III). On the section R6–R7 — up and to the left 20 m along simple rocks to the base of a large vertical internal corner (R6–R7: 20 m, 60°, I). On the last section of the route — up along the left sheer 30-meter wall of the internal corner with two small ledges. The ledges are passed head-on (R7–peak: 30 m, 80°, V+).

Russian Championship

Report of the Rostov Region team Class of altitude-technical ascents Foros cliff. Big fountain 5B category of difficulty Winter ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Crimea, Foros cliff, southwestern part of the Crimean coast. Height 660 m above sea level.

Route №13

“Wedding” (“The Hole”)

2A IV 260 m (7 pitches). Average passage time — 3–5 hours. The easiest route to the summit of Chelebi-Yaurun-Beli, however, climbers should be able to navigate the terrain well. The starting point of the route is a horizontal shelf, on the western edge of which a tree grows. Two memorial plaques dedicated to deceased climbers can serve as landmarks. R0–R1: 30 m. Go left along the shelf to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Insurance point on the tree.

• 10 m I
• 20 m II–III R1­–R2: 40 m. This is the most difficult section of the route. Up through simple rocks to a rock spall. Continue moving up through it and then through simple sloping rocks to a large shelf overgrown with trees. Insurance point on one of them.
• 15 m II
• 10 m IV

12

Description of the "left chimney" route 2B on Chelebi, variant through the chimney.

Written by Anatolik Eremeev on September 25, 2011 The approach to the route from the parking area near the spring takes 40 minutes, from the road — about an hour. R0–R1. The start is from a tree at the base of the chimney. The first rope length is "garden-veggie" climbing between bushes and trees. Nothing complicated. The station is on a tree before the "plug". (40 m II) R1–R2. Unambiguous climbing. It's impossible to get lost.

• "Probka" (plug)
• "Probka kolodets" (plug well) The station is on a tree after the second "plug". (35 m: 5 m IV, 25 m I, 5 m IV) R2–R3. The crux rope length. This is where the most interesting part begins. From the tree, approach the "plug" before entering the deep dark chimney. If the rocks are slippery, you can hang a foot loop in the "hourglass". Then move a couple of meters up the chimney. Climb in "raspor" (opposition) — you won't be able to do it otherwise :). Protection:

Description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 4A cat. difficulty

Written by Katterrin on April 23, 2010. Before the May holidays, I finally gathered my thoughts to write a description of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi, 3B cat. difficulty. Maybe it will be useful to someone. Route "Bashnya" on Chelebi

4₁, cat. difficulty

UIAA scheme of the route "Bashnya" on Chelebi from the guidebook "Skaly u morya" (Rocks by the Sea) The route is located in the leftmost part of the Chelebi massif; to its right is the route 2B "po Kaminu" (via the Chimney).

"Chimney in the Chimney", 4A (Chelebi)

Route thread A very interesting and beautiful route, abundant with diverse climbing, especially memorable for its chimneys. Judging by its condition, it is rarely climbed and requires clearing of ledges from stones. Recommended for ascent by well-prepared groups. It is better to have experience in chimney climbing, although the route is well-suited for getting acquainted with this truly interesting and enjoyable type of climbing. The terrain on the route does not lend itself to frequent use of protection, but there are places where pitons can be used. In principle, for the passage of the route, it will be sufficient to have:

• several medium-sized friends,
• a set of stoppers,
• seven to ten quickdraws.

4Б cat. dif., "Kurinnaya Lapochka" (Chicken Leg)

The exit to the cirque above the first belt of rocks is described in route Ch10. Walk along the terrace to the left, under a narrow, clearly visible crack in the slab, stretching from right to left. The crack is located 40–50 m to the left of a large cornice. R1 is set near a tree under the crack. Climb up the crack to the left and exit onto a small ledge (20 m, 80°, V, small and medium-sized gear). Then:

• Under the cornice, climb up an inner corner with a convenient crack for 15 m to a ledge.
• Traverse left along the ledge to a tree (VI) — R2. From the tree:
• Climb 4–5 m up and to the right along the wall.
• Swing right into an inner corner behind a ridge. Climb complex rocks in the inner corner for 15 m upwards (85°, VA1, small and medium-sized gear), then pass a small overhang and exit into another inner corner.