Along the southeastern wall to the right of the "diamond" (right diamond), 5B (route by P. Denisenko, 1978) *
This is one of the prestigious routes of the Foros Cant. Below is a new version of the route description, prepared by A. Lavrinenko.
The route goes along the right part of the southeastern wall.
From the road at the alpinist camps under Foros Cant, move up and to the left
First along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30, uncategorized).
On the section R1–R2 — up the slabs to an inclined shelf with a large stump (R1–R2: 30 m, 65°, IV).
On the section R2–R3 — first to the right and up along the inner corner to a small tree (30 m, 65°, IV).
On the section R3–R4 — first along the slabs, and then along the inner corner to the base of a chip, leading to a large shelf (R3–R4: 50 m, 70°, V).
On the section R4–R5 — up the smooth slabs for 10 m, then to the left to a vaguely expressed inner corner. Further up the corner with smoothed walls to a narrow ledge (R4–R5: 50 m, 80°, V+).
On the section R5–R6 — from the shelf up along complex rocks to the right side of the inclined shelf. Then up along a large inner corner (R5–R6: 50 m, 70°, V+).
On the section R6–R7 — up the inner corner to a balcony shelf under the eaves (R6–R7: 30 m, 90°, VIA2).
On the last section of the route — first up through the first eave, then along the vertical wall to the next one. Further along the inner corner, exit to an inclined shelf. From the shelf, along a simple inner corner, exit to the summit plateau (R7–summit: 30 m, 90°, VI).
Variant of the last section, which is more frequently climbed nowadays: from the balcony shelf — left and up under the eave, which is passed "head-on". Further along the steep wall under a large eave, which is passed from right to left (use of ETO is possible). After the eave — straight up to the yayla (R7 — summit: 30 m, 90°, V, A0).
The length of the main part of the route is about 270 m. Time to complete the route is 4–5 hours. *) The complex part of the route is equipped with stationary protection points.
Petr Denisenko, one of the well-known representatives of the Dnepropetrovsk "Burevestnik" in the 70s. He made a number of complex first ascents in Crimea.
After completing his studies and postgraduate studies at Dnepropetrovsk State University, he returned home to Kirovograd as a candidate of physical and mathematical sciences. For many years, he headed the Kirovograd regional federation of mountaineering and was engaged in training young mountaineers.
