ASCENT DOCUMENT

• Climbing category — rock
• Climbing area — Kamchatka, Poperechny ridge
• Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Vilyuchinsky, 2173 m
• Proposed difficulty category — 2B
• Route characteristics — elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 40–45°
• Pitons driven:
  • for rock protection — 4
  • ice — 1

Vlk. Kozelsky, 2170 m, 1B cat. diff., ridge, S. Grinkevich, 1966.

The approach to the route is from the Upper Hut, along the right side of the Kozelsky Glacier. Then, across the center of the glacier, exit onto the plateau. Cross the plateau in the middle towards the beginning of the NW ridge (see photo). Access to it is in the lower part, under the rocks, via a steep ascent. This section of the approach takes 5 hours. Ascent to a wide snowy ridge covered with frozen coarse slag. Movement along the ridge:

• in groups, everywhere simultaneous,
• all gendarmes are bypassed on the right side,
• the ridge on both sides is cut off by steep slopes and couloirs. After the last two "gendarmes," the ridge becomes gentler but narrower. Exit to a cirque

Volcano Kozelsky, 2170 m, 1B, complexity category, to the SW slope, V. Maksimov, 1965. From the base camp in the upper reaches of the Kozelsky stream, an ascent is made along the slope to the plateau; crossing the plateau, one moves in the direction of the SW slope (see photo). The ascent goes along a snow-firn slope along the right side of a not very pronounced broad ridge in the direction of the summit cone. The exit to the cone is along the path on the left side. The average slope of the SW slope is 30 degrees. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. The descent is made along the ascent route.

22

ALPINISM GROUP ALP/KLUB "KUTH"

Material on the first ascent of the route: "peak Kozelsky via the western edge, category 2B difficulty" The peak "Kozelsky" is located 20 km from the city of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky in a group of three peaks:

• peak "Koryakskaya sopka"
• peak "Avachinskaya sopka"
• peak "Kozelsky" at 53° north latitude.

Ascent plan for peak "Kozelsky"

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category - technical
2. Ascent area - group of volcanoes 30 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky at 55° N
3. Peak, its height, route - Kozelsky peak (2070 m), first western edge
4. Proposed category difficulty - 3B
5. Route description: | # | Sections | Length | Average steepness | |:--|:-----------|:-------------|:------------------| | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | | --- | ---------- | ------------- | ---------------- |

Prot. No. 312 dated 17/X-70

Description of the ascent to the "Tooth" of Kozel'skiy volcano via the Western ridge, category 2A difficulty.

1. General description of the summit and its location.

Kozel'skaya sopka is part of the Avachinskaya group of volcanoes, located in the eastern part of the Kekhur ridge. The absolute height of Kozel'skaya sopka above sea level is 2210 m. It is an extinct volcano. Its slopes are composed of basalt and diabase. The slopes are generally gentle and mostly covered with a thick layer of slag. In the summer months, the pre-summit ridge is cleared of snow, exposing several gendarmes. However, snow persists on the slopes, even on the southern ones, throughout the summer. The northern slopes of the sopka are the walls of a large ancient crater, covered with ice and firn. These walls are densely strewn with basaltic "rock fingers". The volcano has three peaks:

• Western,
• Central,
• Eastern. The highest peak is the Eastern one, which is a rocky "tooth" rising 50 m above the general massif. The walls of the "tooth" are sheer on all sides. There is a non-wall passage along the south-eastern ridge (category 1B difficulty route). A glacier is located on the western side of the sopka (the glacier serves as a boundary between Avachinskiy and Kozel'skiy volcanoes), from which the Kozel'skiy stream flows. The foot of the volcano is heavily dissected by ravines. On the eastern side of the foot, there are quarries of construction organizations developing slag.

2. Approach to the ascent location.

Traversing Kozelskaya Sopka from northwest to southeast with ascent to Zub Kozelsky via the northwest wall – category 3A (Figure 4)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, overnight stay in the Kozelsky Creek valley (see description for Zub Kozelsky – 1). On the right side of the canyon, across the moraine-covered glacier, bypassing a rock massif on the right (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine, exit into a wide snow-ice couloir with a slope of 30–35°, descending from the false pass. Staying on the left (in the direction of travel) side of the couloir, exit to the false pass in 2.5–3 hours. Movement is in teams. In the upper part of the couloir – 5 ropes, alternate belay. It is advisable to wear crampons, as there are sections of dense firn and ice in the upper part. From the false pass – ascent via a ridge leading to the western summit below a large gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left in the direction of travel:

• 3 ropes
• step cutting
• piton belay (it is possible to drive pitons into the gendarme wall) After bypassing the gendarme, exit onto a ridge leading to the western summit of Kozelskaya Sopka via a cleft (1 rope, belay).

25

DESCRIPTION OF KAZEL'SKII VOLCANO TRAVERSE FROM EAST TO WEST, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY.

1. General Description of the Summit and its Location

For a general description of the summit and its location, see the description of the ascent of Kozel'skii volcano via the Western Ridge, category 2A difficulty.

2. Approach to the Climbing Site

a/ Traveling by vehicle. Travel to the settlement Rodygino is described in the ascent route description of Kozel'skii volcano, category 2A difficulty, via the Western Ridge. From the settlement Rodygino, continue further along the dirt road (see map) through Kozel'skii stream. 12–15 km from Rodygino, turn left and continue along the road to the workers' houses near the quarry. Set up camp in the quarry area:

• There is plenty of firewood;
• Water is available until mid-July.

26

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area, mountain range: Avachinskaya volcano group
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Kozelsky peak, 2170 m, left buttress of the western wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1070 m
   • including the crux: 320 m
   • route length: 1730 m