Vlk. Kozelsky, 2170 m, 1B cat. diff., ridge, S. Grinkevich, 1966.

The approach to the route is from the Upper Hut, along the right side of the Kozelsky Glacier. Then, across the center of the glacier, exit onto the plateau. Cross the plateau in the middle towards the beginning of the NW ridge (see photo). Access to it is in the lower part, under the rocks, via a steep ascent. This section of the approach takes 5 hours.

Ascent to a wide snowy ridge covered with frozen coarse slag. Movement along the ridge:

• in groups, everywhere simultaneous,
• all gendarmes are bypassed on the right side,
• the ridge on both sides is cut off by steep slopes and couloirs.

After the last two "gendarmes," the ridge becomes gentler but narrower. Exit to a cirque before the summit, and from it to the dome.

The ascent takes 8–9 hours. Descent from the dome along the slope to the Southwest, keeping to the right side of the slope, then onto the plateau. From it, descend along the ridge to the camp.